Friday, October 28, 2016

Dramatic Deep Navy & Cream Cut Crease Makeup Tutorial

                       Whew, I'm on a ROLL today! As always, from my sneak peak posts, here is the final tutorial.  I wanted to try out something I've never done which is color blocking, in a complementary mannerism. It sounds a tad wonky, but essentially this means to choose drastically different colors, that sorta fit together, such as bright cream, and deep grape with navy! Color blocking is generally two bold shades, but I'm taking it from the approach of bolds contrasting light bolds. This is a bit more complex than my typical smokey eyes, since it was a free hand done tutorial with small details that truly count, but with the right mindset, and with adequate time I'm sure anyone of any skill level could complete the eye makeup flawlessly. Hopefully you cuties enjoy, it seems many of you have been waiting all night for this post! Cut crease, here the love bunnies come. 

                        Do be noted, as a disclaimer, ALL products were purchased with my own money, anything stated below is MY opinion, and all photos are raw, with minor touch ups of a lighting change, sharpness enhancement or a saturation enhancement. These factors DO NOT physically change the construct of each photo, they make it so you loves can see em' clearly! 

Time to complete this tutorial: 32 Minutes (professionals/myself)
                                                   1 Hour (beginners/ intermediate)

NYX Cosmetics - Cream Blush, Boho Chic
 Morphe M439 Deluxe Buffer; 1 Pump of Primer
Mac Cosmetics - Mineralized Skin Finish, Lightscapade
ColourPop Cosmetics - Lippie Stix, Skimpy 

             It's not the face makeup that consumes the full 32 minutes, it's actually the eye makeup, although it typically is time constraining for me! As simple as it might seem, just a flick of blue, one must really put the pedal to the metal and blend slowly, otherwise it'll be too disbursed, or not as defined. Yes, I am mentally preparing you all, MWAHAH! Since I was planning to use my Cover Fx G20 Foundation for cut crease clean up, I decided it'd be smarter to use it as an all over base, too. With that being said, right after priming my skin with the Marc Jacobs Under(cover) Perfecting Coconut Face Primer, I clicked open the Total Cover Cream Foundation container, and firmly streaked my Morphe M439 brush bristles across the circular cream layer. Once it appeared that an adequate amount of product adhered to the bristles, I began buffing G20 onto my face starting from areas needing the most coverage that being on my forehead, to areas that need a sheer coating for a color balance, my cheeks. Cream foundation tends to stump most as it CAN cake up, and CAN look oily as the day progresses, but I've found the Cover Fx foundation line to be flawless, and always yield me a creamy complexion! I personally enjoy makeup that blends in, so while still having foundation on that M439 brush I swirled into Boho Chic by Nyx Cosmetics, and lightly stippled it onto the apples of my cheeks as well as up towards my hairline! The ratio of foundation to blush should be 2:1, thus making it a hint of color. You're welcome for the tip ;)!

                Being my main goal was creamy skin, Lightscapade, a sheer highlighter by Mac Cosmetics felt to be the best suiting glow wise.  The skin finish was dusted across my cheekbones, as well as down the bridge of my nose with a Mac 159 brush! I tried avoiding the tip of my nose because I have a bit of a breakout there, and I'd much prefer the scab to heal naturally without interference. The lips are rather simple, just a few coatings of Skimpy Lippie Stix by ColourPop Cosmetics -- stick within the light pinky nude range, this way all focus stays towards the eyes! To set the cream foundation, and to ensure it would remain put all day, I brushed on Nars's Light Reflecting Loose Setting Powder across all 4 planes of my face (under eyes, sides of nose, and a bit on the forehead/chin) with a Sephora Pro Large Teardrop Brush.
 Anastasia Beverly Hills - Dipbrow Pomade, Auburn
Morphe Brushes - Cream Eyeshadow, Dusk (cut crease outline)
Morphe Brushes - Single Eyeshadow Pan, Grape Day (cut crease shade 1)
Makeup Geek Cosmetics - Eyeshadow Pan/ Foiled Eyeshadow Pan: Boo Berry (cut crease shade 2); Vanilla Bean (lid shade); Corrupt (cut crease shade 3)
ColourPop Cosmetics - Super Shock Eyeshadow, Baby T (lower lash line)
Urban Decay Cosmetics - Electric Pallet: Revolt (inner corners); Gonzo (center eyeliner color)
Mac Cosmetics - Eye Kohl, Smolder 
Huda Beauty - Classic False Eyelashes, Scarlett 

              For some reason as I started typing out this blog post, I got super hungry. So here I am, your Lilz, chewing on cereal. Yum. With this tutorial I suggest that you cuties analyze ALL the eye makeup photos first before reading! Why? Well, people of this generation respond better to pictures, but the true reason is because there are two striking details. A defined cut crease, and an ombre/halo like eyeliner style! Obviously you can choose to go without either or, but I feel the touch of blue truly brings the full eye effect together, this goes for the defined crease, too. Anyhow, to kick off the look I filled both brows in with Anastasia's Dipbrow Pomade in Auburn, then pulled out the Morphe Brushes Cream Eyeshadow in Dusk. Dusk is simply a deep navy blue, thus it is easy to replicate, only saying this because Morphe no longer sells their beautiful cream shadow line! Using a Mac 212, I swirled into Dusk, then wiped excess off onto the back of my hand. From the remaining product, I carefully sculpted out my desired cut crease line with soft, and thoughtful strokes! Remember, a cut crease is almost like winged eyeliner, follow the natural bulge your eye socket makes, and all should go well. Here is where things get a bit funky, and where most mess up! First off, many like to at this point smoke out the original cut crease line, but I like to skip ahead to the actual shadow for smoking purposes. With that being the case, switching brushes to a Mac 231, and shades to Grape Day by Morphe Brushes, I carefully smudged the grape color across that cut crease, while line making sure to drag all colors UP, in small blends. To increase the blended effect, Boo Berry by Makeup Geek was added as cut crease shade 2, and a transitional to swish all shades together! Just like Grape Day I opted in for using tiny smudging, and blending motions this way my desired gradience could be achieved. Don't freak out if the original definition line fades, simply add a black such as Corrupt, and go in, once more with patchy tiny strokes! If needed, go over the finished blend with a tapered blending brush. 

              The cut crease is finished, now what? Well, a bit of clean should be done, especially since a cream eyeshadow will be added, we want it to appear PURE. Using Cover Fx's Cream Foundation in G20, my skin shade, I used a Mac 239 brush to fully sculpt out my lids, and clean up frayed lines. Generally one should start from the inner corners while holding their head back, then guide it along the definition line. To mattify the cream down, QUICKLY (can crease and ruin the smokey effect we just created...been there, done that), I patted Vanilla Bean by Makeup Geek straight across the G20 cut out lid line, be sure to pack up adequate pigment. Putting the upper lash line on hold for just a few seconds, I shifted focuses to my lower lash line, and smoked Baby T by ColourPop straight across by using my Mac 212 Definer Brush! Before moving back above, I popped Revolt from Urban Decay's Electric Pallet right onto the inner corners of my eyes, silver contrast navy beautifully. Here comes the eyeliner, not quite tricky, but it can plague some! I felt using a Kohl liner would be my best bet since it's easily smudged, and a little can go a LONG way. Using Smolder by Mac Cosmetics, I first glided the deep black across my waterlines, then took it above to my upper lash lines, and with a few side to side tugs yielded a perfect wing. As a tip, a quick way to get a sharp wing with pencil liners is by placing your nail to the angle you want your liner and going over it, kinda' works like the tape effect! For that pop of blue Gonzo was gently placed center of that liner with a few pats, and tiny side blends. When one's eyes are open, the blue isn't noticeable, but all the action comes alive when the eyes are closed, or to the side! The last two finishing steps include coating your lashes with your favorite mascara, mine is the L'Oreal Paris Miss Manga Waterproof Mascara, and applying a thick set of falsies, I put on my dying Scarlett by Huda Beauty lashes. They seriously are falling apart, but I've had them 5 (five) months, and they've been worn constantly. Pretty good for the price! Thank's for reading cuties, XOXOX, your Lilz!