Friday, August 19, 2016

Gothic Black & White Shimmering Soft Cut Crease Makeup Tutorial

                           Right around this time you will be viewing about 100 different posts featuring the same makeup look. Whether it be a molten copper smokey eye, golden cut crease, or glittering black eye makeup, at some point, everything looks THE SAME! This my friends is why I've decided to use a timeless YET often looked over combination, white & black. Interestingly white and black encompasses a huge realm of hues! Deep black, soft black, shimmering silver, snow white, off white, the list goes on. As a few announcements I would would like too say the ASDM Beverly Hills X Thaeyeballqueen giveaway is ending in three (3) days, and that I haven't done a soft cut crease in almost five months, SCARY, isn't it?! I surmise this is a trend dying out as many are fed up with "Instagram" trends, but on the artsy side of things, a good ol' elevating crease not only gives an artist more space than they can imagine lid wise, but it allows creativity to flow since different liner styles can be tested, along with different brow and lash cuts. Stay tuned love bunnies, next week I will be picking up on the "Transition Into Autumn" Series with a new YouTube tutorial, but for now, be content with Lilzsperation-- new word, learn it, and luv it!

Time to Complete This Tutorial: 12 Minutes Face Makeup; 17 Minutes Eye Makeup; 29 Total
Notes: Glowy Skin, Classic Combination, Glittery, Long-Lasting, Melt Proof, Gothic

*Tarte Water Foundation SPF 15, Fair Light Neutral 
Morphe M439 Deluxe Buffer; Half (1/2) A BEAKER Full of Foundation; One (1) Pump of Primer
*Tarte Bling It On Amazonian Clay Blush Pallet, Dollface
*Mac Lustre Glass, Lustre White

                 You know how when you wear red lipstick your skin must be completely ivory, in other words clear? Unfortunately the same concept holds for black lipstick, so ya' better have the controllable coverage foundation handy loves...along with a good skin care routine too boot. When I did this tutorial I honestly was half awake, half asleep, so I decided rather frazzling my senses, I'd awaken them with my refreshing Marc Jacobs Under Cover Perfecting Coconut Primer, always remember good makeup begins from the bottom, primer, up, setting powder/spray! With that being said, taking ONE pump of the primer, I began spreading the formula out onto my skin starting from the center of my face working my way out towards my hairline, never neglect the hairline nor under face areas, these are often forgotten and result in uneven cakey finishes.  As the primer was sinking into my pores I began "pressing" a half beaker full of my Tarte Water Foundation SPF 14 in the shade Fair Light Neutral onto the bristles of Morphe's M439 Deluxe Buffer, this makes application time run faster as I already gauged the amount of coverage I desired! Everyone applies foundation differently. From stipples, to circular blends, find the beat that rocks your world best! For me, as I have dry skin, I tend to alternate between light stippling motions and buffing circular motions this way dry patches are brushed over, not emphasized. 

                    Into orange and purple blushes? Sorry, PUT THE BLUSH DOWN GIRL, not today, not today. The worst mistake other than the hairline incident mentioned above many beauties make is pairing a blush color wrongly with their overall pallet! For example, it's common sense that pairing a vivid red with green eyeshadow per-say will create too much noise and accent each other poorly, however pairing the green eyeshadow with a mellow coral or baby pink would be perfect as the two extreme colors soften each other out.  The same purpose holds for black & white spectrum's! You're limited to either a plum, or bright pink, other hues will draw focus AWAY from the deep colors at hand. Being I am re-falling in love with Tartes Bling It On Amazonian Clay Blush Pallet once again, I decided Dollface was the PERFECT color for this look in particular-- the blush was swirled across the apples of my cheeks using a Pro #73 Sephora Collection brush! For a light drawing yet glowing from within appearance, I patted Elf's Shimmering Facial Whip in Spotlight across the high points of my face (bridge of nose, cheekbones, forehead, chin) using my ring finger and index finger sealed together, then dusted Mac's Mineralized Skin Finish in Lightscapade directly on top with a Mac Duo-Fibre 159 Brush to not only enhance the glow, but to set it for future wearing, the last thing you'd want is a melting glow due to retched humidity. As far as the lippies go, I filled my lips in using Lime Crime's Black Velvet Matte Liquid Lipstick Velvetine, then once dry coated my lips once over using Mac's Lustre White lip gloss, any white with reflective pearls shall do! To set my skin, I FIRMLY patted the Bobbi Brown Skin Weightless Powder Foundation in 1 Warm Ivory under my eyes and on the sides of my nose using a Beauty Blender Pro, then sprayed on Mac's Prep + Prime Fix+ spray. I know some of you go setting powder crazy, but keep in mind, at some point all this powder wears your skin down and ruins the under skin layer, less is more, use what you NEED, not what you WANT, nor what the trends are!
*Morphe Brushes Singular Eyeshadow Pan(s): Porcelain (lid)
*Makeup Geek Eyeshadow Pan(s): Corrupt (lower lash line, cut crease definition); Galaxy (cut crease outline)
*Mac Cosmetics Eyeshadow, Copperplate (cut crease blending shade)
*Sugarpill Loose Eyeshadow Pigment, Grand Tiara
*Huda Beauty Classic False Eyelashes, Scarlett 
                For some reason, most of my dramatic eye makeup tutorials encompass the least amount of work and least amount of products! Truly is ironic when you think about it.  Anyhoo, before getting into the shadows, I filled my brows in using the Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Definer in Auburn, then primed my eyelids using Nyx's Jumbo Eye Pencil in Milk, try to stick with MATTE eyeshadow bases! Though I used to go in extreme depth on how to fill you brows in, essentially, I felt it was a useless explanation as just like with foundation EVERYONE applies it differently, or in this case defines their brow differently. Right from the gecko I started creating a cut crease outline by smudging Galaxy eyeshadow by Makeup Geek Cosmetics two inches above my natural crease line using an ABH #12 brush! Switching to a "fluffier" Mac 231 Brush and Corrupt eyeshadow, I then began blending the matte black onto the crease line with very slight circular motions, the goal is to have a definition line that is slightly smoked out, continue steps one (1) and two (2) until you achieve a thick yet soft black aesthetic. Now taking a Morphe E22 Pointed Blender, I swirled into Copperplate eyeshadow by Mac Cosmetics and very gently dusted it above my cut crease line, stick with taupe's hindering STRONG grey undertones, no warm tones allowed, this bad boy is meant to evenly blend ALL shades together in a perfect melody of one! The mess left behind from blending has ZERO significance to the final outcome as, dun dah nah nahhhhh, G20 by Cover Fx is here to save tha' day. With my Mac 242 Shade Brush, I took a hardy amount of the creamy foundation then began "carving" out the cut crease line and fixing any harsh blended areas, sharp curves, no swerves! Once I had the cut crease line set and fully blended, I wiped the Mac 231 Brush off and dug into Porcelain eyeshadow by Morphe Brushes. Porcelain was taken across my ENTIRE lid, or any area G20 covered, in full until a thick white base was achieved!

               Though I myself am eager in describing how the glitter was applied, I shall refrain and continue on my merry way. As you love bunnies know I work systematically, not in a straight row of methods! With that being said, I put the upper lid on hold and began smoldering hues down below...oh gosh, that rhymed, eek.  In specific, I applied Corrupt to my lower lash line heavily, followed by a smidge of Grand Tiara Loose Eyeshadow Pigment by Sugarpill, the smokier, the better. Since I had the loose pigment open, I took ONE E.L.F. disposable shadow applicator out, dipped gently into the product, then began patting the shimmering shade onto my lids with firm patting motions and my head tilted back to prevent glittery fall out over my already set facial makeup! If you take a closer view, a tiny amount of pure glitter was applied center of my lid, this is the Bh Cosmetics Glitter in Silver, no glitter glue was needed as I wanted a "passing" glitz effect. As this tutorial winds down...the eye makeup only increases in depth, hehe ;)! Pouring a tiny droplet of water into Mac's Creme Liner, I began swirling the water:liner together using my Mac 242 Shader Brush, then proceeded to lining my waterline AND upper lash line with bold thick lines, be sure to keep your lines sharp and defined. For the lashes I decided a dramatic effect was best to keep "on par" with the cut crease, so I first coated em' several times using Tartes Tartiest Lash Paint Mascara THEN applied one of my favorite falsies, Huda Beauty's Classics in Scarlett! In case you're curious, I got a good 4 hours wear time out of the eye makeup before any fall out occurred, pretty good if ya' ask me. Hope you beauties enjoyed, XOXO Lillee Jean Trueman.