Friday, May 13, 2016

Glittery Purple and Electric Pink Abstract Cut Crease Makeup Tutorial


             Ahh it tis' finally Friday, and guess what Lillee woke up to :').  Oh that's right a completely sore and bulging calf muscle, go figure, the most bizarre of things occur for me!  Makeup seems to ALWAYS brighten my day up, so I decided to step out of my comfort zone and do an extreme cut crease, this look stems around line play rather shadow play. In other words, take your time when it comes to outlining the eyes as well as defining them with the glitter particles, this process can take a good hour however if you truly put your soul into it, the end product is TOTALLY worth it! I got some usage out of my Kat Von D Liquid Lipstick in Lolita (2014 batch, might be darker than it is now) as well during this tutorial, it sorta "fit" with the aesthetic of the firm winged lines, I HIGHLY suggest sticking with deeper lip colors this way tones WON'T clash with the vibrant hues presented on the eyes.  Another thing to keep in mind is the thickness you portray! For example, if your eyebrows are on the thinner side opt in for thicker lines on the eye makeup, this works vice versa for thicker brows (view image to the right, I lined my brows a tad thicker than usual and thinned out the cut crease abstract lines). Before getting into the full blown tutorial I would like to draw some attention to my TWO PREVIOUS blog posts (Tropical Mint Glitter, Drugstore Vixen), you beauties have shown SO much love and loyalty its unbelievable, I thank you, you shall not be disappointed by the future to come❤️!

*Inglot Cosmetics - Face & Body AMC Cream Blush, 81

                               Skincare has become one of my favorite things to advocate for ever since Perfectly Posh came into my life! I feel BEYOND comfortable going out of the house WITHOUT makeup now, which is major because I always put on a light coating of foundation, please check out my beautiful friend Leyna's link for a discount and free product, tell her Lillee sent you: https://www.perfectlyposh.com/leynakee/. The night prior to this makeup tutorial I actually applied my ALL TIME favorite Apricots Overnight mask, it can be deduced that this mask should be left on from the time you sleep until the time you wake up! I actually experienced a NEW side of this product- literally all my dry patches peeled off like lizard skin, the dry patches DID NOT even look human, thanks Posh for purifying my skin, reasons why it is best to stick to VEGAN products that happen to be cruelty free.  Aside from the peeling my skin was flawless and SUPER soft, I did not wanna mess with the texture further using harsh scrubs so I simply set everything with my favorite Fresh Seaberry Oil :)! OMG I have been on the hunt for my Natasha Denona Face Glow Primer ALL WEEK, they seem to be sold out everywhere, it's making me salvage the product more, ugh. Once my Fresh Seaberry Oil began absorbing into my pores I moved along to dotting on the ND Primer across the high points of my face, these include the cheekbones, bridge of one's nose, and the forehead/chin! I then proceeded to gently blending the glowing formula in using my fingertips with circular motions, I prefer starting from the center of my face for the simple reason it helps to evenly disburse product out as opposed to starting at a random destitution point. The primer dries rather quick which lead me onto the foundation stage, where the magic begins! Using ONE pump of my Too Faced Born This Way Foundation in Porcelain and a Marc Jacobs Face II Sculpting brush, I gently began brushing the product onto my skin with comprehensive downward stroking and clockwise stippling motions.  I find it best to work in light layers with this foundation otherwise it gets "clumpy" and can lead to a streak like effect! 

                    I personally brushed over the foundation drying stage and went right into my cream contouring, I figure the cream's are foundations in themselves so what does it really matter? While the statement I just said DOES contradict applying foundation in the first place make no mistake, it does add to the coverage as well as overall radiance to the final makeup look! With that being said, using a cleaned Sephora Concealer Brush, I went into N10 first and gently began "stroking" the shade onto the highlighting points of my face, sorta like a tiger.  THERE IS NO EXACT placement for the contour presented here, have fun with it essentially but do keep in mind the basic zones; the under eye area, hollows of one's cheeks, jawline, sides of nose, you catch my drift :)!  If you watch my Instagram video linked to the RIGHT SIDE of my blog you shall see the contour in action, give it a look cutie.  To blend the creams in I used my all time favorite Elf Ultimate Blending Brush, I began stippling the bristles against the lower half of my face and gradually worked my way up! This alll depends on YOUR needs, and wants, for instance, some prefer blending starting from the center of their face outwards.  When it comes to cream contouring I prefer to get the contour outta' the way so my highlight could be beaming and very brightening to my under eye area! 

                         Onward to tedious steps that once more deal with your preference- straight off the bat however I DO SUGGEST the contouring/bronzing step powder wise, it will contrast off of Lolita beautifully!  IF you haven't noticed by now this look really plays mind tricks as everything is an illusion contrasting off of one another--without the brown lipstick the eyes would not be as daring, without the extreme contour the lips would not stand out as much, ya' feel?!  Using Givenchy's Healthy Glow Powder in 4 and my Mac 168 brush, I firmly blended the shade across the outer three of my face using fluent side to side AND uplifting blending motions.  DO NOT be afraid to build up pigment with this step, all can easily be toned down with a coating of the cream contour product from before, if your bristles still contain residue that is! To deepen up my contour and add drama to my features I then took Shadowplay from the KVD Shade & Light Pallet and lightly blended it into the hollows of my cheeks, under my chin, and a tad on the sides of my nose. I picked the most RANDOM shade for blushing, Ingot's AMC Cream Blush in #81. I was sorta feeling the plum like hue and figured it would look dashing against the other demure yet vibrant colors, so I gently stippled it onto my cheeks starting from the apples up to my hairline, I worked in two light layers for intense pigment (using an Elf Ultimate Blending Brush, duh)! To finish up the face makeup I took a bit of Benefit's High Beam onto the tips of my fingers (brushed some product across using the applicator) and began tapping it onto the high points of my face (cheekbones, bridge of nose, cupids bow, forehead/chin).  LASTLY in honor of Jaclyn Hill's new pallet tease on Instagram, I decided to use some of Champagne Pop onto the exact areas I originally liquid illuminated using a Sephora Pro Small Teardrop Highlighter Brush.

                          Kat Von D Liquid Lipsticks have always been a struggle for me due to the very creamy formula and lack of neon shades, for those of you who are NOT aware, most of her collection featuring demure vibrants wash me out (said this in a few blog posts back)!  The one shade however that looks lovely on me is Lolita, the 2014 version that is.  The color was disbursed all over my lips in two light layers this way the richness of the browned pink really "came out"!  Once the lips were fully coated and in the process of drying, I moved along to dusting Makeup Forever's HD Setting Powder across all highlighting zones of my face, these include the under eye area, between the cheek and jaw line contour as well as on the forehead/chin. Thennnnnn after the eye makeup was fully completed I sprayed on my favorite setting spray, the Urban Decay All Nighter! Not only does this baby refreshen the makeup and reduce powder like appearances it adds such a beautiful LONG LASTING glow to the entire face, what's not to love ;).
*Urban Decay Electric Pallet: Urban (first cut crease shade), Savage (lower lash line), Jilted (second cut crease shade)
*Too Faced Le Grand Palais: Delightful (lid), Party Dress (smudged on lower lash line), Satin Sheets (brow bone)
*Glitter Injections Pressed Glitter, Poison Berry
*Lorac Unzipped Pallet: Unafraid (fourth and last cut crease shade), Unconditional (cut crease outline), Unedited (third cut crease shade)
*Wet N' Wild Megasparkle Confetti, Pink Sugar 774B
*KoKo Lashes, Goddess
                           Oh yes I had some fleeky brows today and I am NOT ashamed to say so :)! Just as explained during the very beginning of this blog post, you MUST make a choice of thick brows thin lines OR thin brows thick lines-- DO NOT opt in for an equal balance of medium to medium as this will ruin the abstract effect. Just as always I lined my top and bottom brows using my Anastasia Beverly Hills Dipbrow Pomade in Caramel and a Morphe G11 brush, once the lining was complete I then gently stroked my brush upwards to fill in sparse areas!  The next step up was smudging Nyx's Jumbo Eye Pencil in Yogurt across my entire lid area straight from the stick, as you probably suspected I then proceeded to blending the shade in with a cleaned ring finger, excess product was smudged under my lower lash line.  Try to stick within the frosty pink-white range, this will help strengthen the tone of the cut crease hues as well as emphasize the lid shade 10X more as opposed to using a matte shade! Be sure to have a GOOD liner brush handy, it'll be used throughout the whole eye makeup look, for the most part.  Also, be equipped with a paper towel this way you can occasionally wipe off product such as pressed glitters!

                                 First things first, getting a good cut crease line set. I was inspired by the natural wing flicks us beauty's do in retro inspired makeup tutorials, you MUST make sure your line's are firm, straight and adjacent to your natural lash line, just a few inches above your crease! Using a freshly cleaned Sephora #20 brush I gently dipped into the shade Unconditional provided by the Lorac Unzipped Pallet.  The shade was first brushed in one single stroke across the upper part of my crease, then followed by tinier strokes the shade was gently carved into a concaved UP parabola shape (math, this is how it helps hehe), and finally flicked out towards my brow mimicking winged eyeliner! To begin adding definition and color I took Urban onto the first third of the cut crease line, this would be considered above the tear duct, the next shade smudged onto the line was Jilted, followed by Unedited and Unafraid, MAKE SURE these shades are seamlessly blended into each other. I like to gently stub my brush back and forth using side to side blending motions to really ensure the hue is pigmented AND blended out this way the gradience goes from vibrant purple to subdued burgundy!  Leave the crease alone for now, begin working on the lids and lower lash line :).  I first patted across my entire lid area Delightful, this will take some packing on to ensure the finish is shimmery but it is worth it! I opted in for my Mac 239 brush primarily because it has a good tendency to pick up ALL particles of the shadow at hand, thus the process took all of 20 seconds to get a bold, soft shade on my lid. With that same Mac 239 brush I picked up Savage from the Electric Pallet and gently smudged it across the outer fourth of my wing using gently lining motions, you DO NOT want this to blend in so much as disappear, you want it to be seen! 

                            Speaking of being seen, I lightly dusted Party Dress across my lower lash line using a fluffy Sephora #27 brush.  To intensify the pigment up I switched back to my Sephora #20 brush and in ONE flick applied Savage from my tear ducts straight up to the ending of my lower lash line, from that point I created a line PARALLEL to the cut crease, extra lines calls for extra precision! I really could not imagine having one line of glitter under my cut crease, as being a fond glitter love this just didn't do, so I took Poison Berry Pressed Glitter by Glitter Injections and gently brushed it across my lower lash line with a few firm strokes, this builds up pigment fast, not much product is needed love! NOW using the  Sephora #20 brush once more I took a pea-sized amount of my Too Faced Glitter Glue and GENTLY yet firmly placed it under my original cut crease line, the glitter glue line was the filled up with Wet N' Wild's Megasparkle Confetti in Pink Sugar.  I do not believe they sell this glitter anymore, however if you search hard enough Amazon should have it in stock! Pack up AS MUCH pigment of the glitter as you want girl, go all out, just make sure fall out is kept to a minimum. The last few steps involve serious liner skills-- begin by first giving yourself classic black wings (I used Makeup Geek's Immortal Gel Liner), as you can see from my step by step pictorial above the liner "fades" out towards the other lines, try to go less heavy handed on this area! Any excess product was taken onto my waterline in ONE thick smudge, when I finished up the makeup I went over the waterline again and literally smudged the shade right under my lower lashes to add drama, hence why the 7th image is less intense liner wise. I finished up the liner by applied a few coats of ACDC Heavy Metal Glitter by Urban Decay across the black line, the purple/blue contrast is stunning against the berry tones :)!

                    Ahhh, mascara my love, my everything, myyyyy never mind. Using the Too Faced Better Than Sex mascara I gently coated ALL my lashes numerous times with slight smudges and wiggles, try to get as smokey of an effect as possible for the lower lashes, they must "pop" off of the glitter pigment! I finished up the entire makeup with an application of my FAVORITE falsies, KoKo Goddess lashes using their KoKo lash glue. Opting in for super spikey and full glam lashes is YOUR BEST bet, anything thin and natural won't live up to the full potential of the eye makeup-- it's glitter, thus it must be fabulous inside and out! If you loves ever have a request for a makeup look, let me know by either emailing me (thaeyeballqueen@gmail.com, OR send a quick message on the left side of my blog), or direct messaging me on Instagram (@thaeyeballqueen), I am open to questions as well, never be afraid to give me a quick click :). Have a good weekend everyone, Au Revoir!