After given some thought, I realized I haven't done too many dark smokey eye's involving black or metallic silvers in QUITE some time! While many like to shed layers during the humid, and sunnier months...then there is Lillee, one who prefers packing on and waterproofing completely. Honestly speaking between you beauties and I, silver shadow mixed with matte blacks is my LEAST favorite combination to apply, however given the circumstances of capturing that "other side" of my personality, I decided to give it a go and touch it off with a garnet red! This makeup look WILL require a certain amount of skill level since black requires a ton of blending, you can either look smokey or like a panda, which is totally cute hehe, but I feel if you put your mind to it and have patience anything can be blended to perfection. I truly do hope ALL of you have a wonderful Memorial Day!! For some of you feeling a bit daring and bold this look will be PERFECT, for the other side of town, those a tad afraid of smokey shadow blending, if you mimic the shadow style and turn it to a softer brown with light pink lips it'll be a perfect alternative :)! To sum it all up prior to getting into full blown details: be sure to take your time and have a wide spread amount of blending brushes present, keep in mind A LOT of makeup is involved, use what works best for YOU and know your products. Click these links for previous "gothic" inspired looks: Crimson Lip Smokey Eye, Plum Vixen Smokey Eye, and my Batman Vs. Superman Dark Wonder Woman look! OO ALSO, I recently did an Interview with Oscar Benjamin for Indieblush magazine, be sure to look for me through the pages ;).
*Too Faced Born This Way foundation, Porcelain
*Cover Fx Cream Foundation: N100 to contour and N0 to highlight
*Make Up Forever Pro>Bronze Fusion, 10M Natural Matte Honey
*Anastasia Beverly Hills Contour Kit, Medium Tan (Nutmeg)
*NYX Cream Blush, Tickled
Darker smokey eyes automatically register as a hotspot for cake face makeup to most beauties, and ironically enough that is NOT true! Although one might go full glam, there is a way to do things where the face isn't crusted or in some cases melting off due to heat. Cake face is generally caused by a) applying too much product and b) applying the WRONG product, to help both of these causes you can simply wash your skin and research the products being blended onto your face! Most of the time us women and men FREAK OUT if there is a pimple not being covered, or a dry patch just not taming down, pleassssseeee do not have this incident today, go for higher quality fuller coverage products, and keep in mind foundation is the groundwork for the following products to come. Phew that was a mouthful! Tracing back our steps, prior to makeup application, I scrubbed on Perfectly Posh's Pore-fect big face bar cleanser-- a little goes a long way for this baby and it's a vegan wash, even better! Once the ph-balanced bar cleanser was washed off with warm water, I applied an extremely light layer of my Fresh Seaberry Oil, focusing mostly on my problematic areas such as the bridge of my nose. Obviously speaking EVERYONE has their own routine, or own line of products they fancy, I just prefer telling you beauties the before since it's more fluent and makes a HUGE impact on the outcome :)!
Speaking of huge impacts, its extremely important to have an adequate primer handy, wether it pertain to a skin condition or want for color correction, primers are simply a must. I opted in for my all time favorite Bobbi Brown Vitamin Enriched Face Base, it gives off a stunning glow and hydrates amazingly! Using my ring finger I gently dashed the product onto all high points of my face (cheekbones, bridge of nose, chin, and forehead), then moved forth to blending the primer in using slight circular motions, I made sure to evenly disburse the product out towards my hairline as well this way even coverage will occur. Whenever red lips are involved you MUST MUST MUST, yes must X3, make it a point for completely full coverage, we don't want red skin clashing with red lips! I chose my Too Faced Born This Way Foundation because it keeps up with the dew factor while still giving me that medium to full coverage I desire. With that being said, using a pump of the product onto the back of my hand, I picked up my Marc Jacobs Face II Sculpting brush and gently fluffed the product across all zones of my face with pricking motions, this is better known as stippling! Once the product was sectioned out I proceeded to then downward stroking it, this will evenly blend the foundation out while maintaining coverage. Personally I do NOT allow my foundation to dry, being creams are packed right on top its foolish to wait that extra time, the base shade will become moist again! Please only use the picture provided to the left as a GUIDE, everyone contours and highlights differently :). First things first, using the shade N0 by Cover Fx, I took my Sephora Concealer Brush and gently disbursed it under my eyes in inverted triangles as well as down my nose in one singular line shooting up towards my forehead, and lastly on both jawlines shedding in towards my chin! Excess product was gently blended onto blemishes and reddened areas such as the sides of my nose. To contour I took the shade N100 and applied it on the hollows of my cheeks, the direct angle of my jawlines, and right onto the sides of my nose followed by one dash under my lip for added dimension! To blend the whoooolllle shebang in I took a cleaned (uber important your brush is clean, especially with heavy contour blending! We want the shades to be as precise as possible) Elf Ultimate Blending Brush and firmly stippled the cream foundations in with fluent clockwise blending motions. I occasionally wiped my brush off on a paper towel to ensure to product build up would occur!
The following steps are tedious however make all the difference between regular glam and red carpet ready glam. As you beauties know I use my cream contour more so as a bronzer than actual contour hue, which in tern means I use less of a powder contour since I want to be as warm toned as possible to match my undertones! I alllwayys get asked how my skin looks super blended and flawless after applying so much product and the trick is to keep a gradience. For example, I'll first apply Make Up Forever's bronzer in 10M Natural Matte Honey to the outer three of my face (Mac 168) followed by a dusting of Nutmeg from the ABH Contour Kit to deepen things up a tad, NEVER go outside of your color range-- if your bronzer is honey go a few shades deeper NOT fully taupey as this looks completely harsh and unnatural! Speaking of harsh and unnatural vibes, blush plays a role in this as well. If your blush isn't blended out correctly it'll look VERY harsh and once more unnatural, I like to use cream blushes such as Nyx's Cream Blush in Tickled to give my skin a hint of glimmer and color! I prefer to swirl my fingers into the pan and lightly tap the product onto the apples of my cheeks up towards my hairline, it makes for a much more eye-catching appearance. Ohhhh eye catching, yes, you better get your glow on girl! I went for my typical Nars Liquid Illuminator in Copacabana followed by Nars's Highlighting Blush in Miss Liberty, the duo together is BEYOND striking in natural sunlight (check out my Instagram for the glow photos). I gently dusted both product onto the high points of my face using a cleaned Morphe M143 Deluxe Soft Fan brush, don't be afraid to pack on the pigment loves, more is better when you want to contact planet Mars ;)! As far as the lippies go I coated my lips in Nars's Audrey Lipstick dashed by Dose of Colors Coral Crush dotted in the center for added brightness, then blended everything out with Mac's Viva Glam Lipglass in shade I, the merlot red. JUST A QUICK TIP- to ensure your lipstick won't bleed take a thin tissue paper and hold it against your lips. Then using a setting powder such as Nars's Light Reflecting Loose Powder press it against the tissue paper! This is a fool proof method and works evvverytime. In fact, you could even go the extra mile of applying a setting spray directly over the powder such as Urban Decay's All Nighter Spray, everything in makeup ties together. While it does seem like a buttload of products used, each cannot do without each other! For example, without Nars's Highlighting Blush my skin would be an oil slick, vice versa if I didn't have the dewy liquid illuminator, my skin would be too dry.
*Morphe 35U Multi-Color Shimmer Eyeshadow Pallet: C3.R1 (lid), C4.R1 (center of lid, tear ducts), C1.R1 (lower lash line, outer V), C7.R5 (inner corners, lower lash)
*Too Faced Semi-Sweet Chocolate Bar Pallet: Mousse (transitional shade), Licorice (inner V)
*KoKo Lashes, Marilyn
As you can tell from the products listed above, smokey eyes truly just require good blending brushes and at most 6 shades! To start the look up I gently filled my brows in using the Anastasia Beverly Hills Brow Definer in Caramel, this is SUCH a breeze nowadays since all that needs to be done is a few upward strokes and spoolies. I then quickly smudged into pigment...haha get it? No? Okay. SMUDGED INTO PIGMENT, by taking Makeup Geek's Immortal Gel Eyeliner across my entire lid area using a cleaned Mac 239 brush, the 239 picks up pigment extremely well so be sure to work in light layers this way you can blend the product evenly out! I highlight recommend sticking with gently patting motions as opposed to dragging the shade in sideward strokes, it'll preserve the heavy black pigment better. Before adding any shimmers to the lid the crease is a very important factor the work in, put the areas below on hold and start bringing out the brushes! I chose to first go into the color Mousse provided by the Too Faced Semi-Sweet Chocolate Bar Pallet since it is fairly neutral in tone. I blended the color into my crease as a transitional shade with my Morphe E22 Pointed Blender, the fluffier bristles help not only drag the black liner upwards but to evenly disburse the two out into a beautiful grey color, try to stick with side to side motions cuties! Since I had the pallet out, I switched to a M433 Morphe Brush and picked up Licorice, a matte black. WORK IN TINY LAYERS WITH BLACK SHADOWS, trust me it'll prevent fall out and will help your eye shadow be a million times smokier since more blending was done! I gently patted the color onto the outer third of my lid and followed through with smudging it into my crease using the natural creasing of my eye socket as a guide, I continued this smudging method until I received my desired pigment. From that point I began switching up my blending to tiny circular motions, this helped disburse the shade evenly into Mousse!
I personally LOVE the bristles of Morphe's M433, they're super dense and almost identical to Mac's 217 brush! Rather going back to my flat shader brush I actually just kept up with the M422 and smudged across my lid in two strokes C3.R4, a metallic shimmering dark grey. Flipping the brush to it's side I then took C4.R1 and began smudging it onto the center of my lid followed by the tear ducts for added shimmer and drama, once more, don't be afraid to go all out with the pigment! I really wish these larger pallets would name their shades, it's beyond annoying using the format column so and so, row such and such, and surly it can't be any fun for you loves :(....sigh. Anyhoo, the last few shades include C1.R1, which was smudged across the outer third of my lower lash line and the outer V of my eye as well as C7.R5, applied to the inner corners and inner third of my lower lash line using a Mac 212 Flat Definer Brush! Being the shade brushed across as a finishing shadow step was fairly light I didn't bother cleaning it off, I went straight back into Makeup Geek's Immortal Gel Liner and went to lining heaven, as you can see from the photo above the liner was heavily applied and smudged on my lower lash line as well as on my upper lash line in a medium thick cat wing. To completely sum up the eye makeup I applied and coated my lashes with the Too Faced Better Than Sex Mascara and sealed the deal with my favorite KoKo lashes in Marilyn :)! I TRULY hope all of you have had a good Memorial Day despite the poor, rainy weather, cheers see you Wednesday.