Wednesday, April 6, 2016

Power Puff Girls: Bubbles Dramatic Glittery Blue Cut Crease Makeup Tutorial


              Sorry for being a tad M.I.A this week, been under the weather to say the least! Not being able to do a makeup look from huge swollen eyes def set the tone, however I decided to make Bubbles my first look back as it contains such cheery and happy colors :).  This is my FIRST time ever doing a cut crease, a ton of you have been asking me to change it up as I normally do smokey eyes, so I went for a glittered crease!  Surprisingly so this is much easier then I had first imagined, doing an actual smokey eye takes much more work and effort.  Cut creases only require patience and steadiness, but since I introduced glitter in this aspect steadiness isn't needed! On Friday I will be doing the last Power Puff Girl which is Buttercupcake, her look shall be quite interesting since although the character is primarily green black is a apart of her spectrum. Before getting into this look you MUST have a positive mindset, get into character love, Bubbles has no time for assy people! Make sure you have a few slanted eyeliner brushes present, it'll help tremendously in terms of lessening fall out. ALSO the hair is totally optional haha, I just was feeling the pigtails since Bub's over there wears her's high and proud ;)!  Click this LINK for my previous PPG look, Blossom is my favorite out of the three. 

*Tarte Water Foundation SPF 15, Fair Light Neutral 
*Nars Liquid Illuminator, Copacabana 
*ABH Illuminator, Starlight
* Milani Lipstick, Nude Creme 26

                      I get the absolute WORST skin texture when I am sick, normally it is dried out and brittle because I spend less time caring for it (lesson to be learned, get your butt up and scrub your face even if it hurts). In the midst of all of this I also have a SUPER puffy left eye due to allergies, yes I am a wreck, so I kept the morning facial work to a minimum.  Minimum to me is literally splashing hot water onto my skin for around 3 minutes (I turn the nozzle for the hot water and gradually splash it onto my face until the heat is unbearable, helps to really open the pores up), then patting my face dry followed up with a light layer of Fresh's Seaberry Oil to all zones of my face.  The Fresh Seaberry Oil is a complete life saver because it rejuvenates the skin while helping soothe irritated area's, such as my under eye area that's a huge puff ball!  Once the oil started drying down I moved onto the next step of priming, make sure the primer you use is specific to your skin type.  Especially with using bright blues and platinum glitter having no redness or dark spots in sight is a necessity, on the flip side of things having perfect skin with no dry patches or excess oil is also desirable- the primer you use must address a certain issue that pertains to you, if your skin is literally perfect universal primer's are your best bet (they help prolong makeup wear)!  I personally like to use my Natasha Denona Face Glow Hydrating Primer because it gives off a gorgeous glow and helps my makeup stay on HOURS without getting dull.  I simply dash on a finger tip amount to the high points of my face (cheeks, forehead, nose, chin) and evenly disburse the product outwards towards my hairline, this stuff doesn't require a lot of product to be productive! Speaking of product's that don't need a ton of product to be flippin' amazing, the Tarte Water Foundation was used right after the priming stage was completed!  With exactly ONE pump onto the back of my hand (the beaker only picks up a quarter sized amount) I gently stippled and blended the product onto my skin using Marc Jacobs Face II Sculpting brush.  The MJ brush is most ideal for foundation usage primarily because of its unique cut, it sort of fits the angle of ones' apple of cheek:hollowing of cheek ratio! I wouldn't stress too much if your foundation isn't covering everything you'd desire, if it bothers you simply work in layers, if not move onto the cream contouring step. 
           
               This is truly where the magic occurs!  I personally use the cream contouring stage as the groundwork for perfect skin, hence why I use so much highlight with less of a contour.  A SUPER IMPORTANT reminder ALL of you must know wether you're new to contouring or a complete pro is know your face inside and out! Some things that work for me won't work for you guy's, which is understandable as everyone has a different face shape made up with different textures and colors.  Simply use the image provided to the right AS A GUIDE, and also be aware the contouring shade I use is more of a bronzing color than contour shade! Now that that's out of the way, to highlight or perfect my skin rather, I took my Urban Decay Vice 3 brush and firmly drew enlarged shapes around the high zones of my face, those being my under eye area (inverted triangles); my forehead; my chin to both jaws; and the bridge of my nose using the shade N0 by Cover Fx.  For "contouring" purposes I then went into the shade N100 (same brush used without wiping it clean) and I drew singular lines on the hollowing of my cheeks, on my jaw line's/the sides of my nose, and under my lip for extra dimension! Blending is truly the simplest process of all, all you must do is stick to stippling and occasional buffing motions.  I like to use my  Elf Ultimate Blending Brush because it blends everything in SUPER quick while giving a flawless finish at the same time!  When it comes to drying time that is up to you, completely optional as it depends on the thickness of products you use. 

                     It tis' time to get bronzy ;)!  Bubbles has very clear and vibrant skin, try not to "over bronze" to the point of looking like a cheesenip, use it to enhance.  The easiest bronzer to manipulate (in my opinion) is Hourglass's Ambient Bronzer in Luminous Bronze Light.  It reflects AMAZING on camera and looks super stunning in real life, moreover it gives a natural finish that will benefit the blush process later on! Using a Mac 168 brush, I gently swirled the product onto the bristles and blended it from the temples of my face down to the hollowing of my cheeks and around the curvature of my jaw line's. To enhance my contour a bit more I then went into the dark bronzy color provided in the Marc Jacobs #instamarc Filtering Pallet and buffed it along the contours of my nose and hollows of my cheeks, this creates a bit more drama! Speaking of drama, the way you apply blush COUNTS in this makeup look.  This is not one of those "light baby pink" blush looks where you play it down, it's an absolute necessity to have bright shimmering pink cheeks as it resembles Bubbles personality!  To get that perfect flush I went into Stila's Watercolor Blush in Water Lily and stippled it on my cheeks starting from the apples up to my hairline, this gives instant color so building up product was unnecessary. 


                  When it comes to the illumination process for this look specific, one of your worst enemies will be using golden tones...trust me I tried and it just looked sloppy to say the least.  Using light neutrals and pink beiges REALLY compliment this makeup look well, so as you might of guessed to create a sticky base for the products to come I first applied Nars's Copacabana to the high points of my face using the flat side of my Tarte Swirl Powder Bronzer and Contour brush!  I then saturated my cheekbones in ABH's Starlight using side to side blending motions; for a little extra "glitz" I finished up with Urban Decay's Illuminated powder down the bridge of my nose and once again on my cheekbones. BTW my birthday is coming up in two weeks SO I will be going on a major shopping spree- if you have a favorite illuminator comment it below lovies! Whenever super dramatic eye makeup is involved its best to tone the lips down, I chose to coat my lips with Milani's lipstick in Nude Creme, the peachy tones contrasted nicely against the cool blue's.  To completely set and finish up my face I moved forth in patting the Bareminerals Mineral Veil across any area's I highlighted, it helped to seal product WHILE brightening my features up at the same time! The laaaaassst step (I promise) was to spray on Urban Decay's All Nighter spray to all angles and zones of my face, the spray helped refreshen and prolong my makeup wear :).
*Makeup Geek Eyeshadow Pan: Shore Thing + Vanilla Bean + Corrupt
*Bh Cosmetics Glitter, Platinum 
*KoKo Lashes, Goddess
                         As you can see I had extremely strong and defined eyebrows today, anything thinner or perhaps softer in arch would throw off the look completely!  The funny part is the brows took me all of THREE minutes total, super glad I invested in the Morphe G11 brush last month as a last minute thing, it definitely has revolutionized the way I brow ;).  Seriously speaking, all I did was outline my brows (top and bottom) and I filled hem in with light brush strokings! The unique cut of this brush makes this process super easy as it glides right on to your ideal arch.  Once my brows were set I then moved along to applying a nice priming base to my lids, the base I chose helped to clean up messy brow syndrome in the midst of everything as well (when the eyebrow pomade goes over the actual brow).  Using Bobbi Brown's Cream Shadow in Bone, I gently yet firmly dragged it under my brow bone's and across my eyelid's using the flip side of my Urban Decay Vice 3 brush.  I then proceeded to lightly blending it in with slight tugging motions!

                       Towards the beginning of this look I had no idea what type of eye look I was going for so I stuck with safe techniques- if you view photo 2-3 it shows the dramatic change in my thought process.  The first color applied to my eyes is a deep royal blue shadow provided by the BH Cosmetics Foil Eyes 28 Eyeshadow Pallet.  This color is VERY straight forward so it is best to use patting motions as well as building up motions, I stuck with my Mac 239 brush this way the product densely built up! The next shade added is Shore Thing by Makeup Geek, I gently softened this bright pastel into my crease using a Sephora #27 Brush.  This color helps to expand the deep royal blue and acts as a guide for the cut crease line, try to stick with side to side motions this way the pastel evenly disburses! Speaking of cut crease line, using Nyx's Jumbo Eye Pencil in Milk and the tiny shader side provided by the Urban Decay Electric Brush, I gently drew a "cat wing" above the natural line of my eye socket, I made sure to extend it out towards my hairline. DO NOT FRET if your line is messy, mine is too if you closely look at image 3, just make sure the basic outline is set! The reasoning behind why you shouldn't worry is quite simple, after packing on Platinum glitter to the white line, the imperfect angles fade.  The glitter acts as a gorgeous blurring device!  Before setting the Electric brush down (offers the best precision since both sides are VERY small, thus work perfect for detailed work) I gently smudged in Corrupt to the outer third of my lid using patting and side to side motions.  This creates drama to the lid area while also forming dimension!  I then proceeded to picking up my Mac 231 to pat the Platinum glitter across my lower lash line.  The BH Glitter is SUPER strong on it's own, a glitter base is not needed unless you're planning to wear the makeup for several hours (3 and over).  

                When it comes to the eyeliner YOU MUST make sure your lines are medium in thickness and very bold, smudged lines are a distraction to the glitter. To achieve perfect wings I picked up my Mac Creme Liner (haven't used this in FOREVER) and with a Sephora #20 brush dragged a straight line across my upper lash focusing on also using the white glitter line as a guide too!  The black wing should meet up with the glitter line AND it should fall back onto the waterline.  Before completing the look completely with falsies, I blended MUG's Vanilla Bean onto my brow bone to remove fall out glitter and I also took a concealer brush to sharpen up any blurry lines around my eye area! Noooooww finally, I coated my lashes with Lancome's Hypnose Doll Lash Mascara (mostly lower lashes) and set everything with my favorite KoKo lashes in Goddess.  I hope you guy's enjoyedddd, BY THE WAY, if you saw the PPG new season premier on April 4 (monday) tell me your thoughts on it, I prefer the older version BUT hey there is always room to improve and change is sometimes a good thing :) Have a good rest of the week cuties!