Sunday, April 24, 2016

Milk1422 Instagram Inspired Abstract Blue Smokey Eye Makeup Tutorial

                     Hey there my cuties! I normally don't do inspired looks by others artists primarily because I like my inner personality to shine through, however after taking a peak at Milk1422 on Instagram with his glorious face charts I knew I had to pick one to execute.  The original is depicted on the right of my finished product, why I chose this out of all the intricate designs? This is simple, elegant, and quite a daring way to spice up blue shadow.  Not to mention the fact plum and red gloss are seamlessly blended and "fall" into place with the vibrant hue's of blue! Beware this is NOT a beginner look, this will require some creative input as well as blending skill- if you don't have your mind completely free, or open the unusual will remain unusual, the idea here is to make classic glam, pop.  This actually reminds me quite a bit of my Miley Cyrus look I had done for my VMA's rant back in September, the pop of blue on the waterline that is!  As you can see I did add my own twist on some features such as the lips and the added beauty mark he gave the face chart, I personally don't like to trend so I avoided doing such however if you fancy sharp lips and the rest GO FOR IT GIRL.  As long as you take your time and have your goal set on this face chart, I truly believe ANYONE could recreate this :)!

*KVD Shade+Light Pallet, Subconscious, Lyric, Shadowplay
*ABH Illuminator, Starlight
*ABH Lipgloss's: Venom + Mac Kinky Gloss
*Makeup Geek Eyeshadow Pan, Drama Queen 

                 UHH, this damn weather is not only killing my nose but also my skin! I went from super hydrated radiant skin to dull, dry, and lifeless poopkin (poop plus skin, yes don't judge me).  A quick fix for me at solving this hideous skin texture I receive from MOTHER NATURE here and there is to actually soak my face in STEAMY water! The steam helps to unclog pores laden in left over product BUT most importantly it softens and regenerates the skin's natural texture, one of my favorite methods as you can tell.  After the steam method was completed for around 5 minutes I patted my face dry with a CLEAN towel and then proceeded to applying a beaker full of my Fresh Seaberry Oil to all zones of my face, emphasizing most on those dry areas! Once the oil started absorbing into my skin visibly I then went onto the priming stage, I was uber excited on using my new Marc Jacobs Coconut Primer, change is a good thing sometimes my loves.  With exactly ONE pump of the primer onto the back of my hand I took a finger tip amount and gently spread it onto my face starting from the center out towards my hairline, I followed through with the same pick up product and disburse method until my face was fully coated!  Be sure to NOT neglect the sides of your face, or hairline rather, this makeup look is focused on a ton of contouring, thus these areas need to be consistent in color, texture, and wear time. One eye catching aspect I noticed about the face chart is the women has a sandy, bronzed almost complexion which is interesting since the contour is so taupey and dark in tone!  To resemble the face chart more so then I would with my typical foundation I went for Becca's Ultimate Coverage Complexion Creme in Sand, this is my "Summer" foundation when I get a bit tanner. Using ONE pump of the foundation onto the back of my hand I picked up my favorite  Marc Jacobs Face II Sculpting brush and gently dipped right in- I downward stroked the product on my face starting from the center outwards, only occasionally using stippling motions for areas needing more coverage! Make sure you work in layers, there is NO rush, just take your time and blend :).

               Oh man, I def went to contour heaven today!  First off the Tarte Aquacealer which I bought two days ago is WAYYY too pink in tone for me so I ended up using two shades to highlight which in reality was a positive aspect because it gave my face more dimension AND drama.  With that being said, using the doe applicator provided by Tarte I gently swiped Light across my under eye area, down the bridge of my nose, and on the center of my forehead/chin!  Then switching to my Sephora Concealer Brush I went into N100 and contoured my cheekbones, jawline, eye socket, under eye, under my lips, and on the sides of my nose connected at the tip.  For the contour make sure you move  ONE inch upwards then your natural hollowing, the model on the face chart has VERY high cheekbones, so we want to form that illusion here!  To emphasize the illusion I then took N0 and applied it right down the bridge of my nose, on my cupids bow, down the SIDES of my nose, and on my brow bone, this surly all brightened things up ;).  Blending was a breeze as always with my Elf Ultimate Blending Brush, I stippled in the product's starting from my lower jaw line upwards!  I find it best to wipe the brush off occasionally JUST to ensure the colors stay separate in some cases and prominent, be sure to blend upwards for the cheek contour AND sideways for the nose contour.  This will help prevent any peach fuzz sighting, plus you can thank me later for that fabulous bone structure girl!

                 Play close attention to placement when it comes to the powder contour and bronzing process, this will honestly MAKE or BREAK your final outcome!  First off is to bronze, this will add life back to your face and help start to form dimension.  I went with Givenchy's Poudre Bonne Mine Healthy Glow Powder in 4; using my Mac 168 brush I dusted and blended the powder onto my skin starting from the temples of my face down to the area RIGHT ABOVE the hollowing of my cheeks and straight down to the natural curving of both jaw lines!  Make sure the blending is fluent, for example rather removing your brush for each section its a straight 3 down without picking your brush up.  For contouring purposes I first took Subconscious provided by the KVD Shade & Light Pallet and heavily blended it onto my cheeks as well as down the sides of my nose!  After getting the shade to a decent form of drama I then went into Shadowplay and very lightly dusted it above close to the tops of my cheeks, this played up as a "blushing" color.  Speaking of blush, there really is NONE used on the face chart but since I am human, flesh and all, I decided to sweep on Mac's Mineralized Blush in Uplifting TO ONLY the apples of my cheeks using a  Sephora Pro Small Teardrop Highlighter.  Don't focus too much on this, it's simply a wash of coral!  To finalized the contour I took Lyric and dusted it down the bridge of my nose as well as under my eyes using a smaller Elf Concealer brush! Next up is to highlight, be very conscious about this step as well since we want the illusion of higher pulled up cheekbones.  Using a mixture of Nars's Liquid Illuminator in Copacabana with Elf's Shimmering Facial Whip in Spotlight I gently patted the product across the tops of my cheekbones going up towards my hairline with little pricks made by my Sephora Pro Small Teardrop Highlighter! I followed through with the little dots by then applying it on my cupids bow, down the bridge of my nose, and any excess was taken onto the center of my forehead/chin, as you could imagine I blended everything out with fluent stippling motions.  To set the liquid mixture from being tacky to matte I then swept ABH's Illuminator in Starlight right across the same areas originally glowed up! Don't be shy on the highlight, shine darling ;).

               If you haven't noticed the face chart features some AMAZINGLY lush lips, I formed my own take on them by first applying ABH's Venom then Mac's Kinky right in the center! Kinky is literally MY FAVORITE Mac gloss, so sad it's no longer sold :(.  I then moved forth in setting my face with the Bare Minerals Mineral Veil in Mineral Veil, I swept it across any zones you'd normally highlight which includes the under eye area, between the cheek and jaw contour, the forehead, chin, and sides of one's nose!  I had the random thought to deepen up the lips last minute so I switched to my Mac 239 brush and applied Makeup Geek's Drama Queen eyeshadow to the tops of my lips as well as the outer rim's-- I normally would of used Mac's Nightmoth but I lost it...go figure. To finish up the look I sprayed on Urban Decay's All Night Spray and allowed it to set for a good 2 minutes before photographing the makeup, a setting spray is SUPER important for this tutorial, I cannot stress it enough!  It will help illuminate the skin WHILE removing the powder like finish originally left by the setting powder, understandably so.  
*KVD Shade+Light Pallet, Subconscious, Lyric, Shadowplay, Sombre
*Makeup Geek Eyeshadow Pan/Foiled Eyeshadow: Pegasus (inner corners), Mermaid (waterline, brows), Poolside (brows, inner corners), Vanilla Bean (brow bone), Corrupt (crease, liner), Mocha (inner V)
*Glitter Injections Pressed Glitter: Baby Tears
*KoKo Lashes, 501  
             Brows, are not normal brows today! While on the face chart it is clearly depicted by natural grown out eyebrows, mine just aren't messy in that manner and shape themselves so I went for a more structured arch.  To achieve the basic brow appearance BEFORE adding the seeps of blue I took my Morphe G11 brush and gradually lined my brows, specifically focusing on the lower and upper brow portion-- these areas are very defined on the face chart!  I then lightly filled in my brows with upward brush strokes, followed by a spoolieing to soften up the hairs! NOW THE FUN PART, using my old time favorite Anastasia Beverly Hills #12 brush, I went into the color Poolside mixed a tad with Mermaid and gently stroked it upwards on my brows followed by ONE spoolieing LEFT, or RIGHT depending on which brow I was sparkling up.  Since glitter was already mentioned, oops, I then went into Baby Tears glitter and placed it right on top of the blue mixture, this added a sense of pizzazz to the already fabulous makeup look :)!  Once the brows were completed I then switched to my Sephora #20 brush for the application of a priming base.  I went for Mac's Paint Pot in Bare Study primarily because it has AMAZING coverage and fit the spectrum of what the lids would consist of well! I smudged the shade under my brow bone specifically to ensure a clean cut would be yielded, and excess was dragged under my lower lash line. 
                 Now onto the ACTUAL shadow play which honestly could be an everyday look sans the blue, blue brows, smurfy attitude...okay, I'll stop. All you will need is ONE good fluffy blending brush, that's it, not intensive shades are added since these are all actually contouring powders!  With that being the case, using my super fluffy Sephora #27 Brush I first went into the shade Sombre provided by the Kat Von D shade+Light Pallet.  This was gently eased into my crease with fluent side to side motions, i emphasized the blending on the INNER part of my eye that connects to my nose because if you look closely this is harshly blended on the face chart! The next color up was Shadowplay, a more warm toned hue that added a nice bronzing effect to the overall eye makeup.  Just like Sombre, this was blended gently in the crease using side to side window shield wiper motions! LASTLY I took Subconscious and added a sense of drama by heavily smoking this out starting from the outer third of my lid up to the natural creasing of my eye socket.  The next portion of the crease is up to you, I wanted a very dramatic crease this way the blue contrasted off the rich browns well, so I first took Mocha by Makeup Geek and gently smoothed it into my crease with circular motions, I then went into Makeup Geek's Corrupt and gently SMUDGED the shade into the inner V of my eye using a slim Mac 217 brush.  After this was done I then completed the lower lash line by smudging across EACH Shade & Light color with a Mac 219 Pencil brush, be sure this is smoked out well!

                      This will probably be the most intricate part of this ENTIRE makeup look, the eyeliner usage, and creation in some cases!  First off, avoid adding anything else to your crease at this point it'll be topped off in a few with Makeup Geek's Vanilla Bean blended, second get out your water and start lining your upper lash with medium thickness wings...unless you aren't using the Mac Creme Liner, though I'd highly suggest it.  I personally prefer to use my Sephora #92 precision brush because it gives a clean finish and is AMAZING when it comes to smudging which is interesting because of the precise tip! Once the upper lash was completed I then cleaned the #92 brush and moved forth in applying pops of blue everrrrywhere, the first part was taking Mermaid and applied it straight across the waterline, make sure your brush is wet during this. You will feel some discomfort for a few minutes since the shadow will touch your eyes, but fear not the excess will soon go to the inner corners of your eye :). Start finishing up by then applying Pegasus on the inner corners of your eyes following a sharp cut, similar to Egyptian style cat eyes, I just happen to not be a fan of the style on myself SO I avoided black liner of sorts in that area! At this time you should add Vanilla Bean to your brow bone and REALLY blend it in to ensure a diffused effect is taken right above the crease. After such is completed move forth in dolling your lashes up heavily, when I heavily I MEAN IT WOMAN, smudge that mascara! Top off the look with your FAV light and airy lashes, in my case they happen to be KoKo's 501, very natural yet sexy ;). IF you lovies enjoyed this inspired makeup look be sure to let me know of some you'd fancy me recreating, have a wonderful week ahead!!