Thursday, February 4, 2016

Valentine's Day Siren Smokey Eye Makeup Tutorial

             As I had mentioned in my previous blog post, I will be flip-flopping between my Valentines Day series and Zodiac series!  For all of you eager to see the next look to come (Taurus), you will not be disappointed.  As a little spoiler it will be versatile (dramatic yet wearable) and in the green spectrum!  Besides that, as a treat I decided to do another Valentines Day look too get you guys ready for my tutorial on Saturday night.  Rather it being one of my typical tutorials I will be doing a collab video with +Nyaj Khan, be prepared for some sick outfits that'll be sure to catch all the guys/girls!  Today is a siren look, very alluring but hinders the kiss of death.  To capture that vibe I did an ombre lip along with red shadow smoked out dramatically with a subtle glow, all of this will take some time so if you're setting out to achieve this look be prepped with tons of blending brushes and well, time!  The difference between this look and my softer Vday look is I made sure to incorporate long wearing products, as well as techniques used to prolong makeup wear, thus making it ideal for the endeavors one takes on Valentines Day!  Hopefully you guys enjoy this one, and as always if you have requests comment below or shoot me an email (left side bar is an email form).

*Too Faced Bronzer, Snow Bunny
*NYX Cream Blush, Boho Chic
*ABH Liquid Lipstick(s): Trust Issues, American Doll

                     Just as I stress always, be sure to wash your skin good!  The simplest thing of just splashing warm water on your skin can make the difference between dull and youthful skin.  For me, I decided to go along with my usual Murad Time Release Acne Cleaner!  This stuff is the best for acne stressed skin, even hive ridden.  Literally with just a pea-sized amount smoothed over my skin into a foamy formula, then washing off with steamy water, it leaves a unique skin texture!  Considering most acne washes dull and dry the skin out, definitely unique- it actually moisturizes those areas while combatting them.  After applying my cleanser and washing it off, I applied Fresh's Seaberry Oil all over my skin extended out to my hairline!  Oil's take a longer time to dry then regular creams, know your stuff and make sure every bit sinks into your pores for optimal hydration.

                            The first and foremost step in any makeup routine is to add primer certain areas.  Whether you work on the eyes first, or face, a good time wearing primer is needed!  With that being said, I lightly dashed finger tip amounts of ND Face Glow Hydrating Primer onto all zones of my face (tops of my cheeks, on my nose, center of my forehead, and on my chin).  I then proceeded to gently blending it in with fluent side stoke motions that emphasized pushing out towards my hairline!    Be noted that every primer is different texture wise, similarly to the oil/cream duo one always takes longer to absorb, plus you must take into account the thickness of your product.  In fact, some primers such as color correcting one's take layers on certain areas!  Just for some common knowledge, I let the ND Face Glow to set for 5 minutes, by this point it was sunken into my pores enough.

                         I have not used my Nars Sheer Glow Foundation in FOREVER, well at least it feels that way.  This baby def surprised me as I got to use it in a different way then usual (you'll find out that part once I speak about blending the cream contour in)!  I really have to get my hands on a pump, pouring out a pea-sized amount or gauging it is a pain in the butt.  This stuff is super messy, and just not conventional at all, if you're following this routine to an exact science perhaps choosing a pump formula is better and time friendly.  At any rate, picking up from the pea-sized amount on the back of my hand, I then dipped my Makeup Geek Stippling Foundation Brush into it and gently began to stipple it onto my right cheek.  I'm not one to start from the center as I find the same finish is achieved either way!  Following through with the light stippling motions over my entire face, I then went back for an extra light coat (don't use too much, I left over a decent amount) and buffed out harsh edges with downward stroke motions.  Since I went along to cream contouring my skin I avoided allowing the foundation to dry, i'd just be re-moistened anyway!

                        A long time ago I used to go NUTS for the YSL Touche Eclat, until I realized its an illumination cream not made to cover breakouts.  Definitely be careful with the products you use, some can work against you!  Since the application is in pen form, I really can't give an exact amount that was used other than 9 pumps total for my whole face.  For today I highlighted areas I normally do such as under my eyes extending out towards my hairline, on my jaw lines, on my chin, and from the tip of my nose up to my forehead smudged slightly side to side.  Highlight and contouring varies from person to person, use what's pictured to the right as a guide for the typical areas (temples are normally done).  Contouring wise I took my Sephora #20 brush and with N100 I drew single lines down the sides of my nose connecting at the tip with a line on top for dimension, single lines in the hollows of my cheeks, and a single line for my jawline.  A last minute technique done was shading my crease a tad, once again this just gives more dimension!  To blend the cream contour in I went back to my MG Brush and began to use firm stippling motions on my left jaw.  I continued the same motion until I reached my cheek contour, here is where I went into the excess foundation on the back of my hand and reapplied it on top.  This just made it easier to sheer the contour out, especially with such a dense brush that really isn't the best under tough creams.  Once everything was blended, I made sure to go over it once more by buffing out the edges, especially with dark cream contours it's very easy to miss a spot!

                         Most people like to allow their cream contour to set, or proceed to baking methods, for me I prefer moving straight along to the bronzer!  The Too Faced Snow Bunny Bronzer is another product I used to use all the damn time, it gives off such a beautiful glow. With my favorite Mac 168 brush I blended the product from my temples, down to the hollows of my cheeks and around to my jaw line.  I avoided applying the bronzer to the sides of my nose since it contains shimmer particles, this will hinder any goals of chiseling your nose!  The reason why it works for applying to the "3's" of your face is because it forms a gradience when contour powders are added.  Speaking of contour powders, I went over each area bronzed with the deep taupe shade provided in Marc Jacob's #instamarc pallet, exclusively contouring the sides of my nose too!

                   Stick to light cream blushes for this look, unless you have oily skin!  It not only will give you a natural flush, it looks like skin, which is always a plus.  Using Nyx's Cream Blush in Boho Chic and two clean fingers, I gently patted+blended the light pink from the apples of my cheeks up to my hairline.  If pigment build up is needed, apply as much as you want!  Being this is such a sheer color all it will do is produce a hint of glimmer, rather a natural appearance.  

                      The placement of illuminizer's is extremely important for this look!  The slight inch away from the correct area of glow can form all the wrong angles that aren't desired.  Be sure to know your highpoint's (cheekbones as well as adjacent to the center of your eyes, above and below brows, bridge of nose, cupid's bow, and very lightly on the forehead+chin)!  To get a basis for the glow I took a pea-sized amount of Nars's Liquid Illuminator in Copacabana and brushed it on the exact areas mentioned before using a Sephora Pro Small Teardrop Highlighter Brush.  Be sure to emphasize the glow mostly on your cheekbones, and down the bridge of your nose!  I set the cream formula with Laura Mecier's Matter Radiance powder, if you're anything like me and enjoy having a shiny glow,  work in light layers and smudge the brush lightly rather blend in long streaks!  This will concentrate the color more and leave less of a diffused appearance.

                        Right after finishing the glow process I then proceeded to applying heavy amounts of my setting powder to my skin.  Just as a pre-warning for the eye makeup (if you're following this exact order) the powder is visible, but does not effect the makeup outcome! Besides this, using the Makeup Geek Foundation Brush (comes quite in handy) I patted Besame's Brighting Powder on several areas.  These areas happen to be the exact areas highlighted before; my under eye area, my forehead, chin, and between my jaw and cheek contour!  All of this was blended in with side sweeping motions once my eyes were finished using the same brush used to apply.  In between all of this I was figuring out what lip color to do!  I really couldn't decide so I applied a light coating of Trust Issues to my lips and popped American Doll in the center.  To create the gradient effect I patted the edges, which fades the red in!  I definitely recommend sticking with the liquid lipsticks for Valentines Day, clean cut and leaves no residue plus lasts hours on end.   Speaking of lasting hours, I sprayed my entire face with Urban Decay's All Nighter Spray as a finishing step.  Once again, definitely something you should invest in since it keeps the makeup fresh and exactly the way you applied it ALL DAY!
*Too Faced Chocolate Bon Bons Pallet, Sprinkles, Cashew Chew, Dark Truffle, Satin Sheets
*Makeup Geek Eyeshadow Pan, Corrupt
                       Just as mentioned before be noted of two things; the setting powder will be visible but it is NOT part of the eye makeup, and I skipped a step between photos 5&6 that caused a smokier effect.  All will be explained don't fret :)!  First things first start with the brows, be sure to have a good brush handy and if needed a separate spoolie brush.  Since the shadow part is a longer explained process I will keep this short; I spoolied, lined the top and bottom brows, then filled in with an extra spoolieing using my Anastasia Beverly Hills #12 brush.  Choosing a brow shade close to your natural hair shade, or the rule of 2 shades darker/lighter, is very important for this look!  Being red is a primary shade ANYTHING can throw it off, especially since the red I chose is so bright. 

                   As a priming base I went for Nyx's Jumbo Eye Pencil in Rust.  Prior to this I actually brushed foundation over my eyelids thus making it pre primed already!  Just as modeled in the first photo, I smudged Rust over my lid area and blended up towards my crease.  Pigment build up is NOT necessary as this is JUST a base, don't stress it if the shade creases up!  Right after applying and blending in the Jumbo Eye Pencil I moved straight to the lid shade (was SUPER excited to get usage out of this color, after all it is one of my favorite's).  With a dense eyeshadow brush (mac 239) I began to firmly pat on Love+ from the Burning Heart Pallet by Sugarpill.  This color doesn't require much building up however in some cases the shadow might be "dry" or "chalky", if this is the issue for you just work in light layers and build up! 

                     After applying Love+, or whatever red you have handy, avoid doing ANYTHING else to the lid proceed to adding drama to the crease.  A transitional shade for such a dramatic smokey eye is VERY important!  Using Cashew Chew from the Bon Bons Pallet and an extremely fluffy crease brush (Sephora's #27 Brush), I gently placed the shade right along my natural eye socket creasing with light side to side motions.  This shade is MEANT to be very sheer, yet visible.  With that being said treat it like any other black or dark hue!  After blending the transitional shade in I then moved along to really amping things up. Switching to a denser blending brush, Mac 217, I gently picked up product from the color Dark Truffle (lightly brushed my brush agains the shadow) and blended it into my inner V.  This color will require some build up if you follow my path of light layers, the light layers will enhance the appearance of a smokier effect and will widen the eyes if done correctly!  To finish up the crease I then took Corrupt and smudged it right into my inner inner V, focusing more on side to side motions, concentrating the black.  Do be noted that in photo 5 I built up more pigment on the shade and dragged it down to my lower lash line! 

                   Speaking of lower lash line, I took Mac's Star Violet and smudged it right under my lower lash line using a Mac 219 Pencil brush.  Following the trend of smudging and as previously mentioned, I then took Corrupt and heavily smoked it under my lower lash line (in the last photo I retreated to a 217 and took the shade further down).  The inner corners consist of Sprinkles, and Satin Sheets.  Both shades mimic pink tones which bring a sweet touch to this entire look.  Be sure the applying these two colors you do it in the order of Sprinkles - Satin Sheets, this will form a gradience especially when Satin Sheets is put in the tear duct!

                     On the liner part pay CLOSE attention, a lot of the shadow is altered from this process.  For starters, begin by giving yourself a medium thick winged line on each eye.  I decided to use Stila's Eyeliner Pen in Black rather hassling with a cream/liquid formula!  Be sure to keep your lines clean, and if you must work in little lines don't be ashamed we all start somewhere and even at that point it can still be tricky.  Just for those who don't know, when I say "dash", I am referring to drawing a tiny line in the center of your lash line then dash another to connect!  Once you have the basis of your liner done move onto lining the waterline.  Here is surprisingly tricky because while most strive for clean cut lines, it isn't that simple.  I chose to use my Urban Decay Naked 3 brush (flat shader side), and going into Jet I smudged the shade on.  After doing so I then went into Corrupt once more and patted it onto my waterlines with the occurrence of smudging it passed my waterline to my lower lash line, thus forming an extremely smokey effect.  For the heck of it I also patted Jet into the inner V of my eye (BE CAREFUL with this, the shade is not so easy to blend!).  

             I finished up the look with sexy smokey lashes using my Lancome Hypnose Doll Lash Mascara and a pair of fabulous fluffy lashes by Andrea.  Now, while dramatic lashes might be a good option for this I personally felt "flirty" cute lashes that curled over were the best thing for the concept present.  Not only does it fit a Siren (alluring) it also fits Valentines Day in the essence of being approachable in a come hither me manner.  Definitely keep in mind the type of vibes you want to give off, each color works differently.  For example, if you love blue perhaps an icy blue won't have the same effect as a dark smoked out blue!  For my Valentine's Day video in a few days be prepped for some seriously sexy purple/pink eyes, the look to come will probably be the most alluring of them all.  I tried to focus on three type's of women there are IN CASE no one noticed; sensual yet soft, foxy and fiery (the current look I just did), and the one that'll be posted Saturday night shall exhibit a vibrant women of elegant qualities ;)  Hopefully I did't spoil TOOOO much *wink*.