Saturday, February 13, 2016

Shimmery Powdered Blue Halo Eye Valentines Day Makeup Tutorial

              Ahh the night before Valentine's Day, most stressful of them all.  Entailing the process of "what do I wear?" or the thoughts of "hmm this color or that color, which is more Valentiney!?". I would't quite worry about any of that because I gotcha' guys covered!  Not only have I covered basically every color of the spectrum with my Vday series (on the near right sidebar under my blog title you can find other appropriate tutorials), I decided to come out with TWO new tutorials, one on my blog and another as a video talk through.  Just as a heads up- the talk through video features drug store bought products since many of you requested a collab of high end meeting low end, be prepped!  Speaking of being prepped, the look of today is more on the powdery blue side of things- this happens to be great for those willing to experiment with color but still want to be alluring, it also looks fantastic with green/brown eyes.  Make sure you're equipped with a few blending brushes as well as paper towels- you'll need it!  Also, IF this is being done as your customized Valentine's Day look, be sure to snap a photo and send it over to me :)!! As a side note the hat is Vintage- hats will be up in a few days.

*NYX Cream Blush, Boho Chic
*Colourpop Bumble with Anastasia Bev. Hills. Pure Hollywood

                    Being this is a Valentine's Day inspired makeup tutorial, looking your best is VERY important!  Wether you're paroozing down the streets or dressing up for that someone special, having good skin is the foundation for ANY special occasion makeup!  Now, when I say "good skin" I am NOT referring to perfect texture- just clean, and free of impurities.  For those of you who have been following my Instagram (thaeyeballqueen), you'd already know what I had done skin care wise, but for those who haven't followed me, I happened to of used my Origins Rose Clay Mask for this specific look!  Absolutely one of my favorites, if you want to see my review on it simply view the side bar on my blog and click the Instagram post. Anyhoo, after 2 hours of the mask setting on my face (I tend to wear masks longer than most), I rinsed it off with hot water and pat dried my face using a towel.  I then proceeded to adding hydration back to my skin with my Fresh Seaberry Oil!  I honestly wish there was a before and after photo I could cook up- thats how ah-maaaaazing the retexturing mask is.

                        After allowing the face oil to sink into my pores for around 10 minutes, I proceeded to the priming  stage!  Before applying primer be sure to choose one that BENEFITS your skin- don't just use something because its "popular".  With the hindering concept of Vday, you want to make sure your primer either hydrates (dry skin), oil controls (oily skin), is universal or targets redness/fatigued eyes/aging skin (normal skin with minor concerns), or combats both oily and dry skin (combo skin)!  For me, I fall into the category of dry skin, thanks bitterly cold weather :) (note the happy face).  Prior too actually blending in the primer, I dashed Natasha Denona's Face Glow Hydrating Primer across all zones of my face, only a fingertip amount was needed! Then, I began to blend out the primer with smooth motions extending out towards my hairline as well as under my chin.  It is super important to drag the product to your hairline and under the chin- this will prolong the wear time of these forgotten areas as well as give a more natural appearance!  Depending on the consistency of your primer and concerns it addresses, you gauge how long you'd like the formula to sit on your skin. Since my primer absorbs super fast within 5 minutes I moved onto the next step!

                       Personally, I am quite fond of a glowy foundation.  I believe anything other than a glow bomb will dull out this look, which is not the attempt here!  Try to stick away from matte foundations, go for radiance boosters, or product's similar too the Natasha Denona Face Glow collection; natural looking glows!  With that being said, using exactly one pump of the ND foundation on the back of my hand, I picked up my Marc Jacobs Face II Sculpting brush and went to work.  I prefer stippling the product from my left jaw up with the occasional downward stroke on areas needing more coverage!  I made sure to work in light layers to avoid a cake like affect and I also had mixed some of the primer used earlier to mix with the foundation, just for more hydrating benefits on certain dry patches!  Many people like to begin from the center of the face and blend outwards towards the hairline, if this method works for you, go for it.  However, for me it is more time consuming because as you blend out from the nose the product will sheer out!  The whole point of foundation is to cover and look natural at the same time.  Since time was brought up, I did not bother letting the foundation set for the reasoning of cream contouring right after!

                      Cream contouring is an ABSOLUTE must! When I say "must", oh you can bet I mean it.  Going back to what I keep typing in each paragraph, VALENTINES DAY REQUIRES A FEMME FATAL- ABSOLUTE PERFECTION IN A ALLURING MANNER!  What does this mean to you guy's? CONTOUR DAMMIT.  One night will NOT kill your skin, it'll perfect it ;)! Only use the photo provided to the right as a guide, everyone has different areas they like to contour/highlight.  For me, I like to use my  Sephora #20 Perfecting Concealer Brush with my Cover Fx Cream Foundations!  Just as an F.Y.I you can contour with foundations the same way you contour with concealers, don't let the media drive you.  Essentially, I took G10 under my eyes in upside down triangles extended towards my hairline, along with down the bridge of my nose up to my hairline in 4 sprouting lines, and from my left jaw line to my right jaw line.  These are area's I wanted to brighten up as well as add extra coverage too!  For cream contouring I just added a few lines on the sides of my nose, in the hollows of my cheeks, underneath my lips, and on my jawline using N100.  Just as G10 was used to highlight for brightening purposes (can also be used to correct crookedness NOT everyone needs to nose contour), N100 was used to chisel my features as bring them out more with techniques of shadowing! To physically place the product on is one thing, but to blend is another and honestly it isn't that difficult if you stick to a few blending motions; stippling, and downward stoking.  Using my Elf Ultimate Blending Brush (absolute favorite brush to blend with) I gently patted the product in starting from my jaw line up.  This process works wonderfully for me since it is less overwhelming then beginning from the center, plus the fact when it comes time to blend the cheek contour in (upward swipes are acceptable here, it gives an uplifted appearance) a gradience is formed, compared to starting from the center and receiving a dull and flat aesthetic.  Generally you should allow the cream products to set, but I am impatient and moved straight along to bronzing!

                                For some reason people have a phobia against bronzers, possibly due to the Jersey Shore.  Some things to keep in mind when choosing a bronzer is it should mimic warm tones, be a few shades darker BUT not contour dark, lastly it resides in your hands wether you'd prefer a matte or shimmery formula.  As a heads up, if you're using a matter bronzer you COULD skip the powder contour step, though I don't recommend it! With my Bobbi Brown Bronzing Powder in Golden Light and a Mac 168 brush, I brushed the product from my temples, to my hairline, and finally down to my jaw line with a slight dusting on the sides of my nose.  The area described is known as the "3" of one's face- basically areas the sun naturally hits when it comes to bronzing! If you seek a richer color, work in layers to avoid an overly orange effect.  Avoid dusting the product over your forehead, chin, or on the bridge of your nose- these are NOT areas needing dark shades. To set the cream contour from before I took the deep bronze shade from my MJ #instamarc pallet and following the "3", contoured with the same 168 brush.  Follow the order of bronzer->contour powder, this will give off a gradual raise and decrease in color.  In other words, the cheeks go from dark (jaw), to light (highlight between jaw and cheek contour), to dark (cheek contour), to light bronze (bronzing powder above), to a red/purple/orange/pink (blush), and finally to a light (luminizer).  I personally do not use a highlighting powder since I heavily set my face with translucent powders- if you want to use it, be my guest!  For those with minor discoloration it might be a good option, yellow powder counteracts A TON of redness.

                             Steer clear of using bright blushes, an icy glow is much needed for this, therefore light baby pinks are in! I love using cream blush primarily because it evenly blends into the powder products and almost overlays to add more depth and dimension.  Using Boho Chic by Nyx I gently patted the shade onto the apples of my cheeks and blended up towards my hairline with slight tugging motions!  All of this was done using my ring and middle finger clenched together, it is much simpler than taking out a brush and building up pigment.  Do be noted creams wear off much quicker than powders, if you're worried about this matter simply set the cream blush with an exact duplicate in powder form for wear time longevity!

                    Normally I don't take a photo of the illumination process, however to avoid confusion with this since I created an elaborate look it was much needed!  First off, go for a champagne pink color.  Anything leaning golden, peachy, or straight up pink will trow the look off as well as go against the powdered blue with frosty skin effect.  With that being the case, using Benefit's High Beam, straight from the brush applicator I put the shade on my cheekbones, on the tops of my brow bones and down the bridge of my nose! I avoided wasting product in terms of applying the glow to my cupids bow because excess product will be left on my Sephora Pro Small Teardrop Highlighter Brush, thus its unnecessary to over disco ball my face. Since I already mentioned the brush I used, basically all I had done is swept the color across my face in downward sweeping motions and I had carried it around to the "c's" of my eyes as well as to my forehead, cupid's bow and chin!  To set the liquid-powder glow I took ABH's Starlight and swept it across it on the immediate area's High Beam touched. I personally love layering my illuminizer's so I applied TWO coatings of the glow powder, with the second time concentrating it on area's the light naturally hits most!

                            The lips were kept extremely simple for the sake of having the attention on the eyes!  All I did was apply Bumble by Colourpop and topped it off with ABH's Pure Hollywood (two coatings were needed). IF for any reason you'd want to see the outcome in a video like dynamic you can view my VDay Purple Smokey Eye! Right after I got the lips taken care of I proceeded to applying Laura Mercier's Translucent Setting Powder to my under eye area, on my forehead, on my chin (which correlates to between the cheek and jaw contour), and the area above my lips using the Sephora Pro Small Teardrop Highlighter Brush used in the previous step! I then topped things off with adding a few sprays of my UD All Nighter potion ;).  Though I DID NOT use the baking method, you might want to opt in for using it only for the purpose it will hold the makeup much longer opposed to slapping the product on and blending it out!
*Makeup Geek Eyeshadow Pan(s): Ocean BreezeCorruptDayDreamer
*Sugarpill Loose Eyeshadow Pigment, Grand Tiara
*Andrea Modlash Lashes, Black 21 

                               In order to emphasize the dramatic blue/green/lilac hues strong brows are needed.  Just as said in my previous blog post, INSTABROWS ARE NOT WELCOMED HERE! Keep your brows thick, sleek and well groomed and there is nothing anyone has on you (insert emoji talk to the hand symbol here).  Starting from where my brow naturally arches, I drew a thin line extending out towards the tail end using my Anastasia Beverly Hills #12 brush and then proceeded to gently spoolieing through.  I continued the lining process until I got my desired shape and then filled the empty space in with light brush strokes flicking upwards to mimic actual brow hair.  To finish things up I gave one last spoolieing! Every damn eyeshadow priming base I've used fails to preform the same as eyeliners or cream shadows being smudged.  With that being said, using my Bobbi Brown Cream Shadow in Bone I gently smudged it across my lids and blended upwards towards my brow bone.  I then took the shade and smudged it under my lower lash line, just as modeled in the first image above.  

                               In all honesty Ocean Breeze is one of the MOST enchanting metallic blues I own.  It is super unique and sheers out to a wonderful powdered blue color, to my surprise! For this shade in specific a dense shadow brush is needed, I opted in for my Mac 239 brush.  I applied the shade using gentle yet firm patting motions and built the color up to my desired sheen! Though there is MANY colors layered on-top of Ocean Breeze, it doesn't hurt to embrace the shades metallic side with applying it wet (use this as an added thought). I apologize in advance for the confusing format of "C-Column__. R-Row___", this is only due to the BH cosmetics pallet having 88 shades thus none were named.  If you happen to have a light and vibrant blue, you should probably go for that rather mixing two colors together!  With a combination of C6.R6 and C6.R1 (one has green tones to compliment Ocean Breeze), I softly applied this into my crease using a fluffy Sephora #27 Brush.  Due to this color being very light I mixed it slightly into Ocean Breeze which lightened the lid shade tremendously, don't freak out and start reapplying, it does not matter, however getting the transitional shade in does. Once you have the transitional shade set and blended thoroughly, move forth in adding drama to the crease + lids. Switching to my Mac 217 brush, I went into Earl Grey from the Chocolate Bon Bons pallet and gently swirled it into the inner V of my eye using side to side and slight circular motions! I began building up depth for the halo eye'd effect by smudging the color on the inner third of my eyelid's.

                            The next shade added to the crease is Corrupt by Makeup Geek!  As the look continues on you'll see how the black deepens tremendously.  That is due to me having minor moments of "should I make this darker, should I not, AHHH what does a Lillee do?!".  The basic motions done is really side to side gestures with minor smudges in between using a Mac 219 Pencil brush! Do be noted this color was ALSO heavily dragged across the lower lash line to form a ton of drama as well as contrast around my eyes.  After I had gotten Corrupt settled, for that time being, I then moved along to smudging corrupt on my lower lash line followed by Earl grey and Ocean Breeze!  The shades connected at Daydreamer as right after smudging I patted the lilac in between the halo eye gap an in the inner corners of my eyes using my pinky.  Not a ton of building up was needed for this shade, however if you're looking for a dramatic appearance rather softer and more blended, build away!

                        A super important attribute to this look is Sugarpill's Loose Eyeshadow in Grand Tiara!  This happens to be one of the MOST pigmented silver sheens I own, as well as the most long wearing.  I tried to incorporate products that defiantly will last 6+ hours when used in conjunction to each other! Basically, with that same pinky finger used in the previous step, I patted Grand Tiara right on the center of Daydreamer as well as in the inner corners of my eye smudging right into the lower lash line.  I packed up pigment quite a bit between the 7th-8th photo's- I highly suggest you follow the same lead as it will brighten the eyes up from the pure black used on the inner corners of the eye. Anytime you add a dark color to the inner third it'll make the eyes appear closer together, which isn't the effect we're aiming for here!

                               Liner is extremely important for this look, you'll need both liquid and cream to get a full black outcome! The first thing I had done right after the shadow was completed is lining my upper lash line with my Stila Eyeliner Pen in Black.  This pen lasts MUCH longer than my normal liquid liner, and when I had used it on my client with oily eyelid's it lasted her a reported 10 hours straight.  10 hours with hard work on the job is incredible- be sure to give yourself a nice and clean wing!  IF for any reason you mess up on the wing you can simply add concealer and conceal the mistakes!  After the upper lash line was set I then went into my ABH creme liner.  Using a Mac 209 Eye Liner Brush I went over my upper lash line once and then proceeded to lining my water line.  As I went forth with this process I also worked on smudging it down towards the lower lash line for a more smoked effect that was deeper in tone!

            Finish everything up with some sweet flirty lashes and super smoked out lower lashes!  To get this combination I first apply 6-10 coats of my Lancome Hypnose Doll Lash Mascara and set it with some Andrea Modlashes! As funny as it might sound the type of lashes you apply matter.  For example, if I were to apply super dramatic lashes such as House Of Lashes Iconic, the dynamic of the look would be less Valentine's Day-e and more club like.  On the other hand, by applying slightly curled and evenly disbursed lashes you can clearly see the shadow, and a flirty aspect is grasped.  Hopefully you guy's enjoy this one- in case you have difficulty finding the other Valentine's Day looks just click the links provided here with the complementary  title to what the look entails: Sensual Seashell Bombshell, Foxy Red Siren, and Smokey Purple Fury.