Sunday, February 7, 2016

Purple Fury Smokey Eye Valentine's Day Makeup Tutorial


                       Happy Sunday everyone :).  Get ready for two rapid look's coming out between the coarse of today and tomorrow!!  Both mimic the same shadow style just with a variation of powdered blues (tomorrow night) and chic purples (today!!).  For those of you who have been keeping close eye on my Instagram+Twitter you'd know I have been messing around with some beautiful 1900's hats, hence why the photos featured in this post have two of my FAVORITE hats so far out of an estate sale!  If you're interested in purchasing any of them you can visit Truetiques.com, my moms website.   While they're not uploaded quite yet it's something to look forward to buying; perhaps for someone's birthday, or a chic addition to a collection!  Whatever it might be, these hat's gave me joy at first glance.  There is something SO different about whats made now and then- a separate blog post will be done on my thoughts!  ALSO, this tutorial in specific features a collaboration with +Nyaj Khan, give her a follow for some more AWESOME and trendy fashion looks.
*Nars Liquid Illuminator, Copacabana 
*Colourpop Bumble with Anastasia Bev. Hills. Pure Hollywood+Melon Lipgloss

                                If you're viewing the blogpost BEFORE the video I'm just going to say this straight off the bat- my skin looks like a bunch of ants invaded and nested underneath.  HOPEFULLY it doesn't detract away from the makeup too much.  Prior to doing anything makeup wise for my skin all I did was lather a light coating of Fresh's Seaberry Oil to my skin.  Highly irritable skin and face cleansers? Think again.  Since we're on the topic of skincare, a ton of people this past week have asked, "what is so special about Fresh's Seaberry Oil?" I'm here to tell you a few reasons why; it combats reddened skin from irritations of makeup or the environment, hydrates fast, and gives a radiance to the skin even once it has absorbed.  If those aren't good enough reasons, I don't know what is! 

                    Once I allowed my face oil to fully absorb into my skin I proceeded too the priming stage!  As said in my tutorial, a hydrating base can only add radiance which for the effect of this look is a good attribute.  Using my normal Natasha Denona Face Glow Hydrating Primer, I gently took a finger tip sized amount and dashed it across the 4 zones of my face (forehead, chin, both cheeks).  After dashing them on I then, just like a moisturizing cream, smoothed it out towards my hairline. Whenever priming the skin keep in mind some can be layered!  For example, for me I have dry patches over my nose that won't quit it, if I apply two light layers of my primer the patches are combatted.  Also be noted that you should blend from the center of your face out, just for a natural appearance.  Priming is one of the MOST important stages, especially for special occasion makeup be sure to choose one compatible with your skin!

                       I haven't used my Marc Jacobs Genius Gel Foundation in quite some time, so I figured to give it a go!  Before getting into the details on this- choose a foundation that you know is long wearing for your skin but won't get oily, oxidize, or dry up.  The after effects described aren't desirable, just make sure you know your product inside and out, it gives a different perspective on your makeup as well as a new found respect!  Aside from all of that, I took exactly a pump of the foundation onto the back of my hand and with my Marc Jacobs Face II Sculpting brush began to gently stipple it onto my skin.  The coverage of this is buildable, so I kept it to sheer coatings.  With any foundation keep in mind a few things- use stippling or downward stroking motions, start from the center and ease outwards towards the hairline, and work in layers for the best coverage!  Being I heavily cream contour right after, the foundation is really a base step to even and combat some redness, as well as make me feel freaking fabulous.

                       It is settled.  A Lillee contouring video is on the way!  You guys always private message me questions on it, so why not address it as a whole?  Since I already was in the swing of things with my Marc Jacobs foundation, I decided to go forth in highlighting with the Re(marc)able concealer.  This stuff is super long lasting and leaves a skin like finish, a little bonus here too is the concealer covers a ton!  Using my Sephora #20 Perfecting Concealer Brush, I took the shade under my eyes in downward triangles extended out towards my hairline as well as between my cheek+jaw contour and on the bridge of my nose branching up to my forehead.  These are areas I generally like to brighten up, hence a few shades lighter in the cream product.  Just some added information for you guys, you can use a liquid/cream/powder/gel foundation to highlight or even contour! Just make sure its a few shades lighter and you know where exactly you want to place the product.  Speaking of contour, I then took N100 and placed it on area's I wanted more defined such as the hollows of my cheeks.  DO NOT get defined and chiseled confused- defined means to make more of what you have (like the natural hollowing in your cheeks), while on the other hand chiseled means to make smaller (like the sides of your nose!).  Right after I finished placing the product on (view the image above) I then moved forth in blending it out!  I tend to be biased when it comes to the tools I use- beauty blenders just don't cut it for me.  With that being said, using my Elf Ultimate Blending Brush I firmly stippled the creams in with the occasional downward stroking motion to buff the edges out!  Be sure to check the sides of your face and jaw line (if you contour this like I do) for excess product left over.  Having a dash of brown isn't attractive UNLESS you like that look, then go for it, be you girl.

                               Just as said in my January Haul post/video, I have no idea why I put off buying the MUFE Pro Sculpting Duo!  This is the absolute best and gives off a unique glow, defiantly check out the haul video for live swatches of it.  If you happen to own this pallet be noted it will be used TWICE throughout this look, once as a bronzer and second as a glow powder!  Right after cream contouring it's best to bronze the skin, this will add a warmth back that was lost after adding taupe toned products.  Using my Mac 168, I smudged the brush into the bronze shade from the sculpting duo and gently tapped excess off the side of the container.  I then proceeded to brushing it from my temples down the the hollows of my cheeks and around to my jaw line.  These are areas the sun generally hits, besides the nose!  IF you're using a matte bronzer you can go ahead and contour the sides of your nose, though color wise it might look odd.  To set the contour fully I took the dark bronze shade from the MJ #instamarc pallet and went over areas I cream contoured (cheeks, jaw, under chin for added depth, and sides of nose).  I personally do not use highlighting powders unless redness is still visible, I feel it cakes product on and looks un-natural to say the least!

                             I'm not quite sure if I regret using a powder blush or not, but for the sake of this look it did come out quite well.  Recently a ton of you have been asking me to using powder blush, so I opted in for the most recent and popular one I had handy, the Too Faced Love Flush Blush in Baby Love!  Before going into the compact I swept my Mac 168 across a clean paper towel to remove excess contouring powders.  I then gently brushed it against the heart shaped design and from the apples of my cheeks up to my hairline applied the mid-toned pink.  This type of application will give the illusion of higher raised cheekbones, who doesn't want that?!

             Start finishing up the look by adding a glamorous glow!  For those of you who are not fond of "disco ball highlights" don't fret- the pink/beige duo is very finely milled and can be toned up or down super easily.  One of the first things I did was take a pea-sized amount of Nars's Liquid Illuminator in Copacabana onto the back of my hand.  Then, using my Sephora Pro Small Teardrop Highlighter Brush I went into the product and brushed it across my cheekbones, "C's" of my eyes, on my cupid's bow, and down the bridge of my nose.  Don't just blindly highlight your skin, you must know your high points (where the light naturally hits)!  Once I had the liquid on (makes for a sticky base) I then brushed on the pink glow from the sculpting duo mentioned earlier.  I actually layered this twice through and any excess left on my brush was put onto my forehead and chin!  Just so you guys know the "c's" of your/my eyes is in reference to the top of the brows down to the cheek bones, it forms a C  figurine :).

            Now, in my video I only used a mixture of Colourpop's Bumble w/ Abh Pure Hollywood layered on-top.  When it came time to take photo's I changed my mind and opted in for patting Abh lipgloss in Melon right in the center.  This effect not only complimented the eye makeup beautifully, it also brightened up my features!  When it came time to using my Besame Vanilla Powder, I applied it in heavy amounts to my under eye area stretched up to my hairline as well as on my chin, forehead, and between my jaw and cheek contour using a Sephora Pro Small Teardrop Highlighter Brush.  I allowed the powder to set on my face (baking) until it came to to apply my falsies.  Once I applied my falsies (if you watch the video this didn't turn out well LOL) I brushed the remaining powder off using a Makeup Geek Foundation Brush (any brush works, this just has a round top, thus making it easier to remove product).  Especially if you're doing this for Valentine's Day opt in for a setting spray!  I chose my all time favorite Urban Decay All Nighter and sprayed 8-12 drops across all angles of my face.  It helps to move your head around in a rocking motion, this gets the spray into every crevasse!
*Makeup Geek Eyeshadow Pan, Barcelona Beach
*Sugarpill Loose Eyeshadow, Countess
*BH Cosmetics 88 Cool Shimmer Pallet: C2, R2 + C3, R4, 5 and 6 + C5, R4 + C4, R5
*Wet N' Wild Megasparkle Confetti, Pink Sugar 774B
                             Strong brows are a MUST for this makeup look, especially since the shadow is very bold!  I def recommend grooming beforehand for a clean cut appearance (it took be 20 minutes to get decent brows, I was a furry mammoth).  Once you have adequate brows move along to defining and filling them in to your desired shape!  I personally prefer to go in with my Anastasia Beverly Hills #12 brush and spoolie first, line the top+bottom brows, fill in with light brush strokes, and give one last spoolieing. By the way I for one am not a fan of Instagram brows, if that is your outlook for the moment reevaluate your thoughts, this look is chic, not meant to be "instaglam". 

                        After the brows, move forth in priming your eyelids!  I chose my favorite Bobbi Browns Cream Shadow in Bone.  This stuff is super long lasting when applied and keeps my shadow's vibrant ALL DAY.  With that being said, using the back end of my Urban Decay Vice 3 brush (blending side) I smudged the shade onto my lid and blended up towards my brow bone.  Excess product was taken down to my lower lash line!  Stick to skin tone bases for this one, black/white bases will detract from the multiple sheens going on in this look.  Also since there will be glitter used briefly you might want to grab a paper towel/makeup shield by this point :)!

                            Immediately from the start of this shadow look I go in with a bang (first shield's now bangs, Lillee gone superhero? hmm).  Using a dense shading brush, Mac 239, I went into Metallic Plum and packed it onto my entire lid area.  Avoid using side sweeping motions, stick to up and down pats that build up in pigment!  Since Metallic Plum is ONLY a guide for the rest of the shades, avoid stressing how much pigment you pack on.  Right after applying the deep plum to my lids I moved onto the crease, here is where the drama occurs!  With a mixture of ABH's Bikrin and Makeup Geek's Barcelona Beach (in the video I said Makeup Forever BY ACCIDENT), I gently eased the shade into my crease using a Sephora #27 Brush.  The unique color formed with these two shades combined is really important for the groundwork of the other crease shades, try to stick with medium mauves with taupe notes!  Before moving forth you should be aware that this color is only to be used as a transitional shade.  As you blend up with side to side motions, much of Metallic Plum will be blended upwards, if this is all you desire in effects skip the rest and move to liner!

                             If you decided to take the daring route, its time to amp things up a bit!  First off, make sure Birkin & Barc. Beach are fully blended in, this just helps the next shade ease in better. Switching to a denser blending brush, Mac 217, I went into Deep Plum by ABH and took it into the inner V of my eye.  With this color in specific I made sure to strictly follow the natural crease of my eye socket using side to side motions WITH a scarce usage of tiny circular motions to add a gradience. DO NOT skip the step of adding Spirit rock to the crease- this deepens everything up dramatically!  With the same exact 217 brush as used with Deep Plum, I gently yet firmly patted Spirit Rock onto my outer lid.  As I patted it on I began to "smudge" the shade upwards towards my eye socket and just like Deep Plum, I followed through and blended it towards the inner third of my eye. Once you have the crease shades in place you MIGHT (totally should) want to go through it all with a fluffy blending brush to soften up some edges!  As you do this you'll notice the transitional shade will turn lilac, which is perfect because it compliments the next colors to come.

                          The rest of the steps were literally off the top of my head, I didn't quite know what I was going for during the tutorial.  To soften the look up make it less dark and bruiting, I patted Sugarpill's Countess across my entire lid area using my index finger.  This deep maroon is absolutely stunning and brings more of a Valentines Day aspect to the look!  Since we're discussing aspects now, to create more of an alluring touch I decided to go in with a few shades from the BH Cosmetics 88 Cool Shimmer Pallet.  In my tutorial I did mention all the shades would be listed, always check back to my blog if a product is misheard or you're not sure what was used!  Once I had Countess set I switched to a tinnier brush, Mac 219 Pencil brush, and began to apply an array of shades.  The first color applied is C3, R4 to the inner corners of my eyes followed by C3, R5 and R6 smudged right on top.  By this point the gradience of pink to purple/blue is prominent.  To just add an extra "oomph" I took C2, R2 and applied it right in my tear ducts as a highlight!  

                               This next step is completely optional!  I personally love glitter, the amount used for this look is so little I doubt any of you will skip this. With just a light dusting (NO GLITTER BONDING GLUE) of Wet N' Wild's Megasparkle it defiantly brings the aspect of warmth to the look, almost like a femme fatal ;)!  Try to stick with pink glitter for this, and also keep in mind it is not meant to be flashy, just to give a glimmer here and there.  When it comes to the lower lash line PLEASE pay close attention!  For starters, with my Mac 219 I smudged C4, R5 across my entire lower lash line, avoiding the area with gradience created in the tear duct.  Then moving a level higher, closer to the lashes, I smudged C5, R4 across followed by a dash of Makeup Geek's gel liner in Immortal!  I actually had done a whole thing on the waterline liner to clarify how I get such deep smokey eyes, be sure when lining you smudge downwards ONTO the lashes, this will smoke things out and make it appear connected to your waterline. 

                         Continuing on with the gel liner, I gave myself a medium thick wing, and when it came to my waterline formed a angular line towards the tear duct (sorryyyy wasn't able to record this step, phone died!).  With there being such a gradience formed in the inner corners keep your lines CLEAN!  Anything smoked out too much will detract from the main focus, also I apologize there is a huge blue sparkle on my lower lashes, OOPS.  Finish off with your favorite mascara coating your lashes several times!  You must keep up with the smokey effect done on the top; to do so the lower lashes have to be very lush and plump (hence why I used Lancome's Doll Lashes, the absolute BEST).  I topped everything off with my favorite Ardell lashes, the #110 unlike their wispies are absolutely perfect and leave a flirty touch to the entire look!  

                 I'm hoping you guy's LOVE this one, especially brown eye'ed beauties!  Also, I did not forget any of you when it came to the Zodiac series!!  As promised my Taurus look will be coming out within the next week- keep in mind I also photographed a powdered blue smokey eye, a lot is goin' on definitely keep in touch by following my Instagram and Twitter: Thaeyeballqueen :)!  Happy super bowling loves.