Thursday, February 18, 2016

Disco Gemini Glittered Smokey Eye Makeup Tutorial


                          Told you guy's the Gemini look was REALLY going to pow! The difference between this look and the other's apart of my Zodiac Series is it took me TWO tries to get my desired outcome.  Towards the end I'll show you the first look outcome, it leaned more smoked out and dramatic in shading, plus the fact glow wise I was a shiny bomb of Champagne Pop.  Lately I've felt uber glittery, so I decided to unleash my inner glitz beast- it really fit the concept of a Gemini because well, they're cray.  IM KIDDING.  Or am I? No really I am haha.  I focused mostly on the purple-pink spectrum of the acclaimed colors that resembled Gemi people (Blues, tiny amount of red, green, and purple-pink) due to me really not feeling the vibe of bright green lids, that's reserved for an upcoming look ;)  Keep in mind I also kept the amount of tools to a minimum for the face, I really only used my Beauty Blender, which is a rarity in itself.  Be sure to stay tuned for tomorrow night!!!! I will be posting my FIRST ever hair tutorial featuring the In-stlyer, review/demo/why I love it, you get the drift. 

*NYX Cream Blush, Boho Chic
*Nars Liquid Illuminator, Copacabana 
*Too Faced Melted Lipstick, Villain + Urban Decay Glitter Eyeliner in ACDC + Wet N Wild Pink Sugar Glitter + Colourpop Super Shock Shadow in Lace

                               I dunno man, my skin was absolutely horrid this morning.  I had icky dry patches, and spots of oily goodness, basically a whole shah bang of unwanted skin conditions THANKS to the rapid weather changes of 7 degrees - 54 degrees, how lovely. While I probably should of soaked my skin in some warm water with an application of a hydrating facial mask, all I had done is applied my all time favorite facial oil to combat some of the dryness+oiled areas.  The sheer fact that only one drop of Fresh's Seaberry Oil can work wonders under 10 minutes is pretty freaking amazing.  Be aware that oils are not necessarily to hydrate- some can combat acne AND some can strip the skin of excess oils that aren't needed!  Be noted that a moisturizing cream can take longer/shorter to sink into the facial pores than an oil, also be sure to know some oils are thin, thus they absorb immediately.

                        For once I was equipped with my Beauty Blender Pro, you can applaud Sephora for this matter SINCE I received a sampler BB Sponge Cleaner.  I REALLY did not want to mess up my nails, thought they were pretty done for, so as you might of guess I dipped the tip of my Beauty Blender into my newest favorite primer, the Natasha Denona Face Glow Hydrating Primer!  This stuff is the bomb.com and can be layered for extra hydration and interestingly enough for coverage too.  Moreover I stippled the primer onto all zones of my face making sure to work in light layers and to blend out towards my hairline.  DO NOT forget the hairline or under the chin- these are areas most forgotten, if you skip this process it'll be obvious a face mask of makeup is worn. Anytime you apply a product to your skin involving creams/liquids/gels/oils you want to make sure the product fully absorbs in the skin, if you do otherwise otherwise (going back to the face mask of makeup), you'll look like a birthday cake :).

                                After getting my primer on I smoothly transitioned into applying two light coatings of Estee Lauder's Double Wear Foundation!  Choosing a high coverage foundation is super important for this makeup look, any signs of redness or discoloration will detract from the glitter. The only downfall to most high coverage formulas is they come with no pumps (odd trend I've noticed), to solve this issue I actually take a painters mixing tray and put the foundation in a tiny hole!  Being this is a Gemini look I unleashed my daring side, and to be frank I think all of you at home should too, it sets to mood.  With that being said, I pored as close to a quarter sized amount of the foundation onto the back of my hand and went to down on blending! I personally like to begin stippling on any breakouts just for the fact foundation is meant to even out, I feel a lot of people lose this concept overtime, foundation is not necessary if you have flawless skin.  Anyhoo, I stuck with the stippling motions with the occasional downward pull out towards my hairline, if coverage build up was needed I made sure to dot the area THEN blend around for the most natural finish!  I think thats one pro to the Double Wear Foundation, it leaves a radiance that isn't un-natural, be sure to not choose anything too glowy for this look, once again it'll detract from the glitter to come. 

                   I FINALLY received my Cover Fx N10 Cream Foundation, you guy's have no idea how horrible it was to compensate for a week.  For some odd reason the formula does not break me out one bit, which is weird because it is high coverage which tends to clog pores! Excuse the sport's bra by the way, I was unleashing glitz beast once more.  This look is amazing because unlike the others less contouring is needed, you just need a "bright" "fresh airbrushed" sort of look, let me explain.  First off, using the back end of my Urban Decay Naked 3 Brush and N10 specifically, (VERY useful contouring tool, thirty nifty Lilz, ok I'll stop) I cream highlighted under my eyes, on the bridge of my nose and a slight bit on my forehead.  These are areas that light naturally hits on me- notice how in the photo modeled on the right the highlight is extended out.  For example, on the under eye area I took the downward triangles up towards my hairline.  This plays with lighting as it gives the illusion of higher pulled up cheekbones!  Keep in mind the placement on where you put the light shade of your choice, these areas will be used later for setting powder.  For cream contouring make sure you choose a shade neutral in tones, NOT WARM NOR PINK!  Contouring is to form shadows, NOT to create warmth, thats the job of bronzers.  Anyhoo, I cream contoured the sides of my nose, my cheeks, and my jaw line using N100 by Cover Fx.  Be sure you follow the specific lining's on your face!  In other words, where the hollows of your cheeks are is generally where you should draw contour lines, not anywhere above or below.  Once I had the creams positioned on the area's I wanted them in, I proceeded to blending everything out with my Beauty Blender Pro!  Just like with foundation, I made sure to use stippling motions with the "fat" side of the BB.  The only time a unique motion was used is when blending in the cheek and nose contour came around- in these areas I pushed "upwards" for uplifted effects and buffed out towards my hairline with side blending techniques!  You should allow the cream contour to set for a good 4 minutes, but I'm impatient so I moved along to the powder stage.

                             My nose is soooooo stuffed right now!  It's the absolute worst because once powders are applied the dripping snot ruins everything :(.  I didn't feel like having an excess of products listed out so I opted in for my Makeup Forever Sculpting Duo!  This happens to be one of the BEST sculpting pallet's I have, it's very smooth on the skin and lasts HOURS.  This step will require a brush, so using my Mac 168 brush I went right into the bronzed powder and swept it onto my temples flowing down to my cheeks, and around to my jaw line.  Do keep in mind this is a bronzing powder, as long as the powder you choose is matte, YOU CAN set the cream contour and move onto the blushing stage!  Since Gemini's are strong minded people I decided to go forth in making my features a tad more prominent.  Using the contour shade from the Smashbox Step By Step Contour Kit, I gently recontoured the hollows of my cheeks as well as the sides of my nose with the same 168 brush!  When it comes to being the "best" contour pallet, the Smashbox Step By Step is definitely not it. The contour shade is ruddy when applied rather taupe in tone, it took some work to really blend out the nose contour.  Some might say that's due to the shade being way too dark, but I strongly disagree!  Be sure you have a good color selection, anything that alters your natural skin tone or clashes w/ purple (redness in skin, dark circles) will throw off the look.

                                   For blush I highly suggest going for light baby pinks or mauve tones!  Choosing a cream blush is honestly your best bet for the look primarily because it gives off a glow a powder cannot produce.  This process is fairly simple and takes all of 2 minutes- I simply took the back end of my beauty blender and smudged it into Boho Chic by Nyx.  I then stippled the product on from the apples of my cheeks up to my hairline!  This technique not only brightens the face up it adds to the "contoured" look.  As far as the illuminizing stage goes, be sure to choose pearlized pinks, neutral tones will work too!  For me, I began by taking a pea sized amount of Nars's Liquid Illuminator onto the back of my hand.  I know a ton of people who prefer to just dot it on the high points of their faces- this method tends to be messy, hence why I started things off with "for me..."!   Anyhow, with the illuminator on the back of my hand I gently warmed it up a tad using my ring finger (side to side motions to spread the product), and then with the side of my BB I began dabbing it onto my cheekbones, down the bridge of my nose, and on my cupid's bow. Keep in mind the illuminations toy with lighting, the areas you apply the shimmer product is what'll be more prominent.  I set the liquid with a light patting of the pink glow from the MUFE Sculpting duo!  The Beauty Blender comes quite in handy since it works with powders AND liquids.

                       The lips are totally rad in this look.  At first I went for a more matted appearance, but then I realized Gemini's are quite special, glitter input was needed!  Once I had finished up the eyes I transitioned straight into the lips.  The first thing I had done is applied two generous coats of the Too Faced Melted Lipstick in Villain!  After getting my lips plumpified with a slight over lining technique, I then began dabbing on ACDC straight from the applicator to the center of my lips.  Occasionally I puckered just to SAVE product, the puckering transferred the glitter to my upper lips!  While the liner was wet I quickly picked up my Wet N' Wild glitter and patted it over my lips using a clean index finger. To finish up I took the same finger into Colourpop Dare and gently smudge it onto the center of my lips, for a more purple touch!  I actually just thought of this- you COULD possibly use the tip of the Beauty Blender Sponge to apply glitter, IF you despise messes.  After the lips were completed I moved forward in setting my face with my Laura Mercier Translucent Powder!  I applied the powder to my under eye area (in the same formation of the cream highlight), to the sides and underneath areas of my nose (to further counteract redness from my stuffed/drippy nose), on my forehead + chin, and between my cheek and jaw highlight (this chisels the features as it makes the contour more prominent). With such a grand usage of glitter a setting spray is not even an option, its a MUST.  Using my Urban Decay All Nighter spray I covered all zones of my skin with the liquid and allowed it to dry for a good 3 minutes!  You really want to make sure the lips especially stay put, surprisingly enough when I kissed my hand there was no trace of glitter, the setting spray acts as a protective bubble almost.  
*Urban Decay Electric Pallet, Savage, Chaos, Jilted, Urban
*Makeup Geek Eyeshadow(s): Corrupt, CarnivalShimma Shimma
*Sugarpill Loose Eyeshadows/ Eyeshadow: Birthday Girl + Kitten Parade
*Colourpop Lace
                              I had a bad brow day, if you couldn't tell. My brows just looked...eh, I blame my brush on this one since it wasn't cooperating :)!  Having the correct eyebrow color match is VERY important, especially when working with vibrant shades stemming from primary color's.  Just as always I equipped myself with my Anastasia Beverly Hills #12 brush and spoolied through each eyebrow.  This just tames them and makes it much easier to line as the hairs are in place!  Speaking of lining, I drew two solid lines ontop of my brows and on the bottom of my brows, both lines meeting up towards the tail end.  After I had the basic shape I gently filled the empty space in with light upward strokes to mimic actual brow hairs!  To finish up I gave myself onnnnneee last spoolieing.

                             When it comes to the priming stage, I have not one idea what I was going for.  Generally speaking a white base should be used for bright colors, I on the other hand went for a metallic gold. Interestingly the gold gelled VERY well with the vibrant shades! With that being said, I smudged on Cashmere by Nyx to my lid area.  I then blended the shade up to my brow bone using fluent tugging motions with my index finger!  I wouldn't stress applying the liner to your lower lash line only because A LOT is done up above, it will be a waste of time.  After you have the primer blended out move forth in applying shadow!  Excuse the fact I forgot to add a step by step photo, it just didn't photograph well.  Using my Smashbox Full Exposure Brush I gently but firmly patted on Savage by Urban Decay to the inner third of my eyelid.  Be sure to pack this color on quite a bit, I wouldn't stress fallout because it's a hardy pressed pigment!  The next shade up is Chaos, it is a super pretty oceanic blue, in fact if you don't have the Electric Pallet Mac's Atlantic Blue is an amazing dupe.  With the same Full Exposure Brush, I patted Chaos into Savage with firm motions, avoid using side to side blending techniques because purples will be added to the mix!  Switching to the short stubby side of the F.E. brush I picked up Urban and began using side to side motions on the mid lid this way a gradience formed between the hot pink and rich blue.  For some added pizzazz, I then went into Jilted and applied it slightly closer to the inner lid, once again for more depth. 

                                    The crease is actually not difficult at all!  The only thing required is a sturdy and dense blending brush along with a tampered fluffy brush to diffuse things out fully. With my Mac 217 brush I hit the pan on Carnival and eased it right into the crease of my eye.  Since this is just a transitional shade, additional pigment build up is unnecessary, the only thing you must keep in mind is slight side to side motions and tiny circular motions following the natural curvature of your eye socket.  Do be noted some of Chaos WILL BE blended upwards as well during this process! To add some drama I went into Corrupt (last minute thing honestly) and applied it right into the inner V of my eye, to really concentrate the shade I started with patting motions on the outer lid and began dragging it up towards the crease.  Before moving any farther into the look I gave a light blend dusting over the crease using my Mac 224!

                                    Here is where you will pick up the Nyx Jumbo Eye Pencil once more, basically all I had done is line my lower lash line to add a light layer of stickiness.  I then switched back to the Full Exposure brush and picked up Sugarpill's pigment in Birthday Girl!  This color has the perfect contrast against Savage without overpowering it.  As you might of guessed, I gently packed on the pigment to my lower lash line with patting motions straight across!  To show how a Gemini does harness a soft side I then went into Kitten Parade and smudged it right in the inner corners of my eye.  To finish up anything involving shadow I took a big fluffy eyeshadow brush and blended Shimma Shimma by Makeup Geek right on my brow bones, this illuminated and brightened up my eyes!

                               Prior to getting into the glitter application be sure to heavily line your waterline.  For me, I took my Bobbi Brown Gel Liner in Black Ink and proceeded to not only lining my waterline but also SLIGHTLY smudging it on the outer corners of my lower lash line for some depth you cannot receive with a shadow!  The next step up is applying a TON of layers using ACDC Glitter Liner to the upper lash line.  I followed the basic formation of a winged liner effect and kept building up pigment until my eyes were super glittery!  Do be noted that when it is applied over black liner the look darkens tremendously, not really my taste as the whole point is Gemini's.  Once I had the liner set I quickly went into Colourpop's Lace (used to be called Dare, spooky) and with my pinky patted it right on the center of the glitter line.  This brings some awesome ultra violet reflects to the line, you can sort of see it on the outer lid of the picture provided above!  You could totally go for falsies, but being I wanted you guy's to really see the glitter, it would of worked against me.  With that being said I coated my upper and lower lashes generously with my Lancome Hypnose Doll Lash Mascara!  Sticking to a black is most desirable as the focus for the 10th time is THE PURPLE GLITTER.

                     Alright, so just as promised here was the original look.  Though its not exactly "bad" I just was not feeing it!  Looking at it perspectively this second look can be seen as the "other" personality to a Gemini, fierce.  Be sure to stay tuned via. Instagram as I have recently picked up the fire on posting!  On my IG you will be able to see sneak peaks as well as coming attractions to what'll be posted on YouTube.  For example, currently I have a short hair video up that gives an idea of what you guy's can expect for Saturday night!  Also be noted I post reviews that aren't published on here, such as my Origins Mask.  If you view the right side bar and scroll ALLLL the way down you'll see some recent Insta posts, if you click one the description pops up!  Hopefully you guy's are loving the Zodiac series as much as I am, Cancer here I come ;)