Saturday, January 9, 2016

Smoked Sugar Plum Fairy Makeup Tutorial


       Hey loves hope you're having a splendid morning/night!  I know I had promised doing a haul today, but it will have to postponed until tomorrow (Sephora was PACKED today).  I don't see that as much of an issue because *drum roll please* I will also be doing a tutorial!  Two videos, Sunday release?  Seems like a good deal to me :).   Today's look is a sugary sugar plum inspired look!  Be aware that its going to be a pain in the butt to explain shadow wise as the basic format "column ___ Row ___" will be used due to me grabbing my BH Cosmetics 88 Cool Matte Pallet.  Also, as an added tease I applied two of the new glosses to my lips and one new illuminizer to my skin (in love with it by the way!).  Before getting full into the swing of things i'd like to draw notice to some new features on my blog. To make things much easier browsing wise I added a drop menu bar separated by specific categories (smokey eye, glitter, hauls/reviews/swatches).  I also cleaned up the left-right side bars for a more aesthetically pleasing following setup- speaking of following THERE ALSO (yes a lot, I know) is a follow button stream on the bottom right corner of both mobile and desktop viewers.


         First things first begin with clean skin!  I happened too of hopped in the shower, thus my skin was steamed properly, opposed to only a few minutes of steamy water.  I also opted in for Origins Clear Improvement Active Charcoal Mask!  Face mask's in the morning make everything much easier being they target certain skin concerns (oily, dry, acne ect.), and resolve them immediately.  I allowed the Origins face mask to sit for a good 5 minutes until it hardened and then I stepped in the shower and allowed the steam to soften up the product.  I gently washed the mask off and pat dried my face, everything was set by Fresh's Seaberry Oil!  I let my face oil set a tad longer than usual since I was working on removing Christmas tree decorations, just be sure it fully absorbs :).

         As many of you know I am OBSESSED with my new Natasha Denona products!  There is something so fantastic about the primer/foundation duo that blurs everything out- defiantly NOT like any other foundation or primer I've used, even over my beloved Too Faced Born This Way and Hourglass N28.  Moving along from slight hero worship, after letting the oil set I ran upstairs and applied Natasha Denona's Face Glow Hydrating Primer!  I only used a finger tip sized amount and spread it from the center of my face outwards to my hairline.  Just using this alone makes such a difference in my skin- literally I can go on, but I won't let's save that for tomorrow and Sunday.   This stuff dries rather quick so be sure to time yourself and check in, when the primer sets it is visible (less oil, more glowy, basically the benefit you want to reap from the primer)!

              Right after your primer sets move along to the foundation stage (or if you want cream contouring, whatever works for you!).  Once again I chose my Natasha Denona Face Glow Foundation and applied a pump to the back of my hand.  When I first got this I was quite surprised that a tiny amount could cover SO much, moral here is use any foundation with cation and light layers! Using my Marc Jacobs Face II Sculpting brush I gently dipped into the foundation and starting from my left cheek, specifically under my eye, I dragged the product down and out towards my hairline.  This is generally considered the "center" of your face however I like to add a Lillee twist to the mix ;).  If extra coverage is needed as said above build it up!  Never work in one intense coating it creates a cakey and less active wear appearance that in the long run is no help.  I let this set a little longer than I should've (about 17 minutes), but generally it should take 5-8 minutes for your foundation to full absorb into your skin.

          I have started to contour a slight bit different, specifically on my nose!  This is why I stress to always experiment and do what works best for you. Anyhoo, I began with contouring first as you might of guessed then worked my way into cream highlighting.  With the backside of an Urban Decay Naked 3 brush (don't ask, very useful brush) I took Cover Fx's N100 and drew a single line on where my cheeks naturally hollow and on my jaw line.  I then took the product onto the EXACT sides of my nose (for a while I believe I actually made my nose larger do to inaccurate bone defining) and connected the dark color at the tip with some expansion of it on the inner part of my nostrils. Then with the fluffy powder brush side I took ABH's Banana cream and applied it under my eyes in extend upside down triangles, down the bridge of my nose, on my forehead, and between my cheek and jaw contour.  Only use my picture on the right as a guide, its never the EXACT positioning's on every person.  One you have everything in line, literally, move onto blending.  Wether you use a sponge, brush, or your hands for that matter always use circular motions and blend until the products are extremely faint!  Since this is only a reference point, I took my Elf Ultimate Blending Brush and starting from my left jaw I blended in the left side of my face with a variation of circular, patting, and stippling motions.  The same technique was used on the other side!  I'm not one who starts from the center when it comes to contouring only because the contour shades I use are super dark thus it overpowers my highlight!

           Not quite sure why I wanted to use the Hoola Bronzer being it doesn't agree with my skin, but whateves'.  When you cream contour its best to set everything with a bronzer/contour duo, or in the case of the Hoola Bronzer anything matte that provides color back to the skin!  With a Mac 168 I brushed the product from my temples down to the hollows of my cheeks and finally down to my jaw line.  I focused mainly on side to side with SLIGHT uplifting motions to really blend the powder out!   If this is your last step you can use the matte powder for nose contouring.  On the contrary, for an extra "oomph" I then grabbed the Marc Jacobs Filtering Powder's and with Deep Bronze I contoured the hollows of my cheeks as well as under my chin.  With a Mac 219 I defined the sides of my nose for a precise contour!  If you want you can always powder highlight, its just not my thing.

           Pretty much the only product constant in this whole routine besides the contour and setting powders is my all time fave Nyx Cream Blush in Glow!  I felt like this would be a perfect match for a sugar plum fairy look because it is extremely dewy and gives give the right flush.  If you want, a powder alternative is Gaiety by Nars, I was quite tempted to use this but then I realized glowing is more important :).  You can either use your fingers or a brush (I used my Elf Ultimate Blending Brush), to gently pat on the product from the apples of your cheeks up to your hairline!  Make sure this is fully blended in, harsh lines will show up especially with the extremely glowy highlight coming up in the next step.

             Once you got your glow on, literally (haha get it because the blush is called...Glow....ok) move onto the actual illuminized version.  I always find using a cream/liquid best for powder application since they act as a sticky base!  With that being said I applied Nars's Multiple to the C's of my eyes straight from the tube, as well as down the bridge of my nose and slightly on my cupid's bow.  I then took my new ABH Illuminator and gently dusted it on the high points of my face with an Elf Concealer brush.  This product is extremely layer-able so PLEASE work in layers, never lump sum it!

Once my eyes were done I then moved onto doing my lips!  The first step to such berrytastic lip look is to line them!  I used Mac's Nightmoth however any dark purple will do.  Be sure to line the outer rim and slightly smudge it inwards, then with the color Electro saturate your lips with the slight blending of Nightmoth as well!  For some added depth I then took Vamp and on the outer corners of my lips placed the product, I puckered a few times for the color to evenly disburse :)
 
           After the lips simply set your skin with some finishing powder and spray!  Especially with a glammed up look such as the one presented here today its SUPER important to have equipped long-wearing product setters!  I dusted Makeup Forever's HD Setting Powder under my eye area, on my forehead, chin, and between my jaw and cheek contour with a Sephora Brush.  I finished up everything with Urban Decay's All Nighter Spray!

*Mac Eyeshadow,  Vibrant Grape
Column         Row
     2                   5
     2                   8
     3                   8
     3                   3
     5                   4

        This is a different set up usage today, ho
pe you guys fancy it more gives a much broader out look :)!  One of the first things I did was my brows along with priming my lids.  To do so I took my Anastasia Beverly Hills #12 brush and dipbrow pomade and did the usual spoolie, line, fill, spoolie format.  Just as a side note here, they apparently released a new pencil, look identical to Hourglass's eyebrow pencil if you guys get it tell whatcha think of it!  As mentioned previously, when the brows were completed I then moved onto priming.  With my Nyx Jumbo Eye Pencil in Milk I smudged it straight onto my lid and blended the product up to my brows and slightly under my lower lash line.  Using a white base is a MUCH better option than skin tone primers primarily because the pallet I chose has hit/miss shadows, the white base ensures every color will be at it's full potential.

             It took me a while to figure out which color to use (I get overwhelmed FAST, a huge array of colors it not always the best mix) until I finally just said, "screw it I choose you".  With Column 2, Row 5's hot pink shade I gently patted it across my entire lid using an Urban Decay Electric Pallet brush.  Be sure to continue packing on the pigment until you receive a super opaque pink color, also be noted this MIGHT stain!  For a more fairy like appearance I then took Column 2, Row 8 and using the same UD brush, gently patted it on the inner corners of my eyes as well as the outer corners.  This is mimicking a halo eye'd effect just we're using the method to add depth to C2.R5! 

              I have no idea why it's taking me forever to remember the names of my Mac shadows but c'est la vie I suppose.  With a supper SUPPER fluffy Sephora #27 Brush I took the color Vibrant Grape by Mac and eased it in my crease.  Be sure to use very gentle side to side motions that build up the color (building up in terms of eyeshadow creates more gradience anyway!).  If you must circular motions are acceptable, however just make sure it doesn't effect the mini halo eye effect created! Speaking of the crease, since Vibrant Grape is ONLY the transitional shade move along to adding more drama! To do so I took Column 3, Row 8's shade (blue/purple) and with my Mac 217 Blending Brush blended the color in my inner V.  Focus on concentrating the color in the socket of your eye with small slight motions.  I dragged the shade slightly towards the mid lid as well!  This is completely optional, but for me I wanted to form a more smokey effect so I went into Column 5, Row 4 and with the same Mac 217 gently patted and blended it right into C3.R8, just with lighter motions!

            Column 3, Row 3 happens to have the most SPECTACULAR shimmery lilacy/pink shade that I knew I just had to use it! You can either use your pinky or like I did the flip side of Urban Decays's Electric Brush, and gently blend the color right in your tear ducts.  During this moment I of course packed on pigment but I began to take it down to the lower lash line and smudge it into C2.R5 (due to the smudging it made the shade VERY shimmery #yas).  

              Finish up with a medium sized wing flicking just below your brow and smudged black liner in the tear ducts.  For the smudged tear duct liner I actually took it slightly down on the lower lash line, this forms a more "gradient" and aesthetically pleasing effect (I used the same super mini shader side from the UD brush). Be sure to apply tons of mascara to the bottom lashes and use a clean applicator for a "fluff" look, this just helps ease the "gradient" effect better.  I topped everything off with my fav House Of Lashes Iconic, they're still dead by the way :'(.