Monday, January 18, 2016

Orange Soda Smokey Eye Makeup Tutorial

               Welcome back my love bunnies!  I apologize for publishing this look at a much later date than expected, but I'd much rather give you guys quality over quantity.  Originally I wanted to do a pink toned look (teased you guys a few times throughout my recent blog posts), but things went South and I took the orange route.  I have been dying to use my Colourpop Lippistix in Safari which basically turned down the whole concept of a pink tutorial, thought I don't think any of you mind!  Not only does this orange toned look fit perfect with ANY occasion (date night out, or exquisite party), it can be played around with in terms of the lip color used or the way you smoke the shadow out.  I highly suggest keeping the orange/coral toned lips, but if all else fails and you happen to hate the color on yourself a beautiful maroon or dark plum would complement this beautifully!  Next week is when I'll start getting back into my normal Saturday schedule, it's just been rather hectic with so many holidays yielding me to be off from school plus with a minor sickness hunting along.  Anyhoo, lets just get to the look all will be explained there :)

*Nars Liquid Illuminator, Copacabana 
*Colourpop Lippistix in Safari with YSL Glass Volupte, 1 Gold

                   In the morning I had recorded a darling iridescent blue and purple makeup tutorial.  I was going to post until I realized "holy shit this looks like a child threw fairy dust on my eyeballs", so wasn't going to post that.   Few hours later came the bright idea, if you catch my drift.  Why is it important I tell you this?  Well, it plays into how I "washed" my face.  Basically, I applied warm water to my skin to remove the sparkle particles from my previous look, then lightly dabbed it dry and set it with a beaker full of Fresh's Seaberry Oil! You really should always rinse your skin fully before makeup application, however I just wasn't fellin' it.

                    Due to my oil taking a super long time to absorb I carried along to choosing the products I'd use from this look.  Normally that process takes anywhere between 5-10 minutes which is the perfect wait time to allow any moisturizing cream/oil to set!  Once I had chosen my products I proceeded onto the next step of priming my skin.  As many of you know I am completely obsessed with Natasha Denona's Face Glow Hydrating Primer!  This stuff has not only improved my skin, dry patch wise, but it has revolutionized the way I do makeup.  With just a finger tip amount I gently spread the product from the center of my face out towards my hairline.  Since this does contain oil properties I allowed it to sink into my pores for about 8 minutes before moving onto the foundation!  Depending on if your primer has oil or not, the general time to allow a primer to set is 5 minutes.  Oil takes longer to absorb sadly, but if you're going for a dewy look its best to stick with the naturals ;)

              I don't have a step by step pictorial prepared for you guys since I am recording with my phone until my CF chip arrives, but I did take screenshots from my video tutorial this way a visual aspect is still present!  With exactly one pump of my Natasha Denona Face Glow Foundation onto the back of my hand, I gently began to brush the product onto my skin.  A lot of people ask me why my favorite brush to apply foundation is Marc Jacobs Face II Sculpting brush, and the honest reasoning is it has very versatile capabilities.  For example, I like to start STIPPLING the foundation onto my left cheek (center of face basically) then I switch to downward strokes for a buffed out look.  The brush also has a unique cut that conforms right to the natural angles of your face, thus making it more ideal than a round topped brush!  Minus that little piece of info, with this foundation its best to pack on the product to an area needing most coverage then sheer it out to the areas needing less.  After having my full face coverage I allowed the glowy sheen to set for 4 minutes, just to make sure the oily properties matted down!

        I normally using a neutral highlight shade but being the color scheme is orange (warmer tones) I decided to use my normal G10 by Cover Fx!  With a general concealer brush that happened to come along with a Sephora holiday set 3 years ago, I drew two upside down triangles that extended towards my hairline under my eyes as well as singular lines between my cheek and jaw contour (I know where I'm putting the contour lines, if you don't perhaps you should cream contour then place the highlight) and a single line from the tip of my nose up to my forehead.  These are the typical areas I like to shed light on, obviously the placement varies from person to person!  For cream contouring since I didn't do too much, I took N100 and lightly drew two lines on the sides of my nose that connected at the tip as well as singular lines in the hollows of my cheeks and on my jaw line.  Last minute I applied a little contour in my crease and under my lip just to define these areas more! In my video I decided to film a talk through, and I think it benefited the blending part rather well.  Moreover, using my Elf Ultimate Blending Brush I gently patted the contour and highlight creams in with a series of stippling and downward stroking motions.  Using anything but the patting motions is super iffy, the whole point is the concentrate the colors to achieve more chiseled bone structures.  Using circular motions disbursed the product the the point it isn't visible.

                    When it came time to apply bronzer I was completely on the fence of which to use!  Originally I was going to opt in for my Bobbi Brown Golden Light, but then I realized I felt rather tiki (snapchat's new filter's are my life right now, I shall enlighten you of my tikiness on the right).  Using Benefits Hoola bronzer and my Mac 168  I gently brushed the product from my temples, down to the hollows of my cheeks, and swished right around to the angles of my jaw line.  This product is matte, thus if you would like to set your contour with it, be my guest!  Right after bronzing my skin, which is the best option to form a warmth if you have cooler tones, I set my contour.  Using Smashbox's Step By Step Contour Kit (my Marc Jacobs one cracked from being dropped, my heart literally pooped itself- Wise words of Tina Belcher) and the same 168 brush, I fluently contoured the hollows of my cheeks as well as my jawline and under my chin.  When it came time to contour my nose I switched to a tinnier brush, Mac 219, and once again gently shaded the sides of my nose to the desired look I fancy.  For the first time in a while I also powder highlighted using the yellow powder in the kit. Rather using the highlight powder to actually brighten I used it to counteract the redness under my nose!

                  Right after bronzing & contouring I moved along to applying a cream blush, once again, we're focusing on warm tones.  While most might opt in for coral or even purple blushes for this- stop.  All you need is a simply warm pink such as Mac's Relaxation Cream Color!  Using that same Elf Ultimate Blending Brush from earlier I gently patted the pink from the apples of my cheeks up to my hairline (think of this like a nike swoop symbol!). 

               I was rather proud of my dewiness today as I feel I finally mastered this step in makeup.  For quite some time I was confused on why my makeup looked less "fresh" than others, and now I have my dirty little secret of Natasha Denona products ;)  One of the first things I did is apply a pea sized amount of Nars's Copacabana liquid illuminator to the back of my hand.  From that pea sized amount I brushed my Sephora Pro Small Teardrop Highlighter Brush into the liquid just to warm the product up, then gently stippled+blended the sheen from my cheekbones, to the bridge of my nose, and lightly on my cupids' bow.  To the left is a representation of the stippling.  I like to place the product on in a straight line then gradually blend from left to right NEVER downwards!  To set the liquid I then took my Natasha Denona All Over Glow Powder and using the same brush gently applied it to the same areas originally glow'ed up! Do be noted that excess product was lightly brushed from my forehead down to my chin.

                           After the eyes and lips were fully dolled up I moved along to setting my face.  I apologize in advance, if you're viewing the blog post first.  By accident my phone stopped recording and then I attempted once more which just yielding a blur fest, and as said in my intro I wasn't going to give you guys crap quality.  The parts I was unable to record is the lips and setting powder+spray, thought these are not the biggest deals' out of the entire look itself!  The first thing I had done is applied Colourpop's Safari and to mimic the bronzed shadow I applied YSL's Gold lipgloss right ontop.  As far as setting powder goes I took my Makeup Forever HD Setting Powder right under my eyes, on my forehead, between the cheek and jaw contour, as well as on my chin using that Sephora Teardrop brush!  I set everything with a few sprays of my UD All Nighter, and by then you should be completely fabulous :)!

                      Hopefully you guys got the main idea of what occurred in my video, but if not all will be explained here!  For the brows in specific I didn't record them just due to the factor my video was going over 12 minutes.  Essentially all I did was spoolie through them using my favorite Anastasia Beverly Hills #12 brush, then I gradually lined+filled them in using the dipbrow pomade in Caramel! After doing so I then took my Mac 239 brush and dipped right into Nyx's Black Shadow Base.  This will play a major part for the following steps since I ended up using this to line my waterline.  Anyhow, I patted the black shadow base over my entire lid area.  Avoiding blending up to my brow (not a good look) or under my lower lash line, I instead prior blended my foundation over the lid which is just as good of a priming base as an actual primer.

*Mac Eyeshadow's: Brun, Orange, Passionate , Star Violet
*Makeup Geek Eyeshadow Pan's: PoppyPeach Smoothie
*Sugarpill Loose Eyeshadow, Penelope
                       Once I had applied the black shadow base I freaked out slightly because the shade Poppy, which was the first lid color, needed A LOT of build up which made it have a chalk like texture despite this I still followed through and honestly I don't regret it.  Using a Sephora #27 Brush, I smudged my brush into the color Poppy by Makeup Geek and began to gently pat the shade across my entire lid area.  As mentioned before this needed A LOT of build up since the black base overpowered the orange toned coral.  Simply work in light layers and build as you go :)!  To just make the color a slight bit more prominent I then took Slowburn from the Electric Pallet and patted a light layer right on-top of Poppy.  I went frantic with the orange shadows, so adding Mac's shadow in Orange is completely optional!  This shade just brings a true pumpkin tone to the look rather such coral notes.  Just like the other shadows, with the same brush I lightly patted this on with one light layer.  The orange peeping through doesn't matter actually since Penelope (pigment) will be applied directly on-top and will cover most of the mishaps. 

                     Once you have a main idea of what will be applied to the lid move on to the crease!  I chose Makeup Geek's Peach Smoothie primarily because it mimics the warm tones found throughout this look.  Using a Mac's 217 I gently eased the shade right in my crease and fully disbursed it with a series of circular and side to side blending motions.  Be aware that this color mends with the oranges on the lid thus making the crease shade less of a peach and more of a coral, which is the point!  If I were to add just a coral shadow it would clash WAY too much.  To counteract the black shadow base that still was peeping through I took Mac's Passionate and placed it right in the inner V of my crease. With this color I used the same 217 and followed the natural creasing of my eye socket.  This is actually like a transitional shade since once you add the darker browns it disappears!  Speaking of darker browns, the first one I applied in the inner INNER V of my eye is Brun.  This shade is chocolatey sweet thus meaning it hinders red tones!  Any brown color you use for this look in specific should contain red-peach undertones.  Anyhoo, just like the shades before it I patted and side to side blended Brun in.  For some added drama I then took Icon and smudged it right in the crease to form an "uplifted" effect. 

                  Moving along to the finishing steps shadow wise, using a 219 pencil brush by mac I smudged Star Violet across my lower lash line.  I then proceeded to smoking Icon exactly ABOVE Star Violet with smudging side to side motions.  The placement should look exactly as it does in my photo above with a fading effect!  With the same 219 I then went into Penelope and gently patted it across my inner-mid lid area along with in the inner corners of my eye peeping down to the lower lash line.  The beauty of Sugarpill pigments is they don't need much, meaning a glitter glue or even priming base is NOT needed.  The only thing you will have to do is gradually pick up and pat on the loose shadow!

                           As said in my video you can opt in for whatever liner style you prefer.  Wether it be smudged liner, or extremely defined wings anything goes for this makeup look in particular.  For me, I decided to give myself nice wings with the Marc Jacobs Magic Marc'er, then with the flip side of  the Urban Decay Electric Pallet brush (mini shader side) I took the Nyx Shadow Base and lined my waterline.  As you can see from the photo above I aimed for SUPER sharp lines for an abstract appearance! 

          Top off the look with some darling lashes & a smokey lower lash effect.  I noticed a lot of women SKIP adding mascara or apply one coat when it comes to adding falsies and I'm going to be straight out- the way to get SUPER dark and defined eyes is by adding mascara but in a quantity.  By the same token, don't apply so much mascara it looks gloopy.  Before cutting you guys loose, I'd love to hear if you guys want me to open up an advice column!  Obviously it would take place on my blog and would be easily found from the top menu bar however, not quite sure how you guys will like it.  Be sure to subscribe for more videos and love to come <3