Saturday, January 23, 2016

Gothic Crimson Lip Smokey Eye Makeup Tutorial


            It is absolutely freezing outside, not to mention the fact a Winter storm is on the rise, never a good mix for the skin!  Be prepped for TONS of photos, I wanted to spoil you guys since I've been m.i.a for a few days.  Why have I been m.i.a? Well, let's just leave it as I am lashless and it stumped me. As a result of this lashes endeavor which is due to me vacuuming them up once again, I ended up going to the drugstore and buying this fab lashes.  While they're not quite my typical style they gave this look an almost "photoshopped" on lash appearance!  Be prepped for some heavy appliance of makeup, whenever wearing crimson red or any red for that matter it's best to cancel out any redness in your skin.  Especially with this brisk weather, my skin is a huge red dot, like Rudolf but redder :).  This can be paired around numerous ways, since I'm an optimist I'll tell you the best part first!  This look can be even worn as a daily smokey since it's not too dramatic, only downside is the lipstick might ware off a tad since it is a liquid lip, but that was not an issue for me~ Just as a reminder I have decided to ADD a Q/A section to my blog, when I finally work on adding it to my blog I'll tweet cha' all.

*Nars Liquid Illuminator, Copacabana 
*ABH Illuminator, Starlight
*Colourpop Avenue Liquid Lipstick 

                   I swear, my next blog post will not feature the same Natasha Denona Products over and over again!  I just can't help myself, the finish is always flawless and glowy.  IF you guys want to see my review on those products, since I keep using them just click the pink link :)!  Anyhoo, one of the first things done was me throughly washing my skin.  For today I just followed my normal morning routine with Murad's Time Release Acne Cleaner+Bobbi Brown's Buffing Grains.  Generally I just mix the two together and scrub away, but for today I gently worked in layers meaning, one layer of the gel and another of the grains!  I then washed the mixture off throughly with hot steamed water and pat dried my skin.  I then finished off everything with my Fresh Seaberry Oil.  Especially for the winter months, this oil is the bomb!  I allowed it to set for a good 10 minutes this way some of my dry patches were tamed :)

                        Perhaps I should edit the first line of the previous paragraph because I am NOT giving up this Natasha Denona Primer.  Ever.  This has not only helped my skin on days without makeup, it provides such a beautiful coverage level to even fine lines out!  With a finger sized amount I dotted the primer on the apples of my cheeks, on the bridge of my nose, and a tad on my chin+forehead.  With swift blending motions I gently eased the primer in and made sure it extended out towards my hairline!  This stuff dries super quick, within 5 minutes I was on my way to the foundation step.

            The most bizarre thing about this foundation is it covers my hives amazingly!  Some might say "well, its a foundation it should cover..duh", guys you have no idea.  Some foundations are so heavily concentrated they don't cover they simply cake on, this on the other hand is super creamy thus makes for better blendativity!  Exactly one one pump of foundation on the back of my hand I took my Marc Jacobs Face II Sculpting brush and worked the product in.  Before working anything in I always like to stroke the foundation a few times just to warm it up!  After doing so I begin to pat the product from under my left eye (basically the center) to my hairline.  I tend to follow the lines of where I will highlight, sort of weird but it keeps to color concentrated, thus longer wear.  Following through with the patting and the MINOR uses of downward strokes, I took any excess and gently stippled it to my forehead.  This foundation really doesn't require much, but as a general rule work in layers there is nooooooo rush!  I allowed the foundation to sink into my pores for 3 minutes time then moved onto the next step.


                 Even if the foundation did a poor job of covering where it counts is the cream contour and highlighting!  When doing people's makeup, referring to those with bad acne, I actually avoid using a spot concealer technique, that is how well these cover.  Using a simple concealer brush (this came with a Sephora gift set a few years ago, any brush will do.  You can even use your fingers!) I began by cream highlighting.  With Cover Fx's G10 I gently drew two upside down triangles under my eyes that extended towards my hairline (to brighten the center of my face up), I also drew three sprouting lines on my forehead that stemmed down to the tip of my nose along with a line from my left jaw to right jaw!  These are all areas of my face I like to "brighten" and in some case "widen".  To contour I took a shade quite a few tones darker than my coloring, Cover Fx N100, and with the edge of Sephora's concealer brush I contoured the sides of my nose, my crease, and the hollows of my cheeks!  Once again, these are areas I'd like to carve out and make more prominent, or perhaps smaller!   The placement of the cream products is the biggest emphasize on this whole concept, blending is a breeze!  For me, I like to take my Elf Ultimate Blending Brush and starting from my bottom left jaw go in with stippling motions.  When I have the urge to tug or use circular motions I resort to downward strokes!  This avoided any peach fuzz from being too visible, unless you shave, and gives a more flawless appearance.  I really should let my contour sit as creams can be super sticky after application but eh screw it NEXT STEP.

                        I have ruined Makeup Forever's Bronze Fusion powder from my sticky cream brush, literally a light film of my contour remains.  I guess gel's and creams just don't mix- oh well.  With my Mac 168 brush I swirled into the bronzer and lightly tapped off excess product against the container.  Then starting from the hollows of my cheeks I began blending the product in one swift motion up wards to my temples.  I took the product back down the hollows and right around to my jaw line+under my chin.  This adds a lot of much needed warmth back to the skin!  Especially after contouring it is super important to give a bronzy flush, contouring alone sullen's the skin out. 
          To set the contour fully I took the dark bronze shade from my Marc Jacobs Filtering Powders Pallet and gently contoured the hollows of my cheeks as well as my jaw line.  For some extra definition I took a Mac 219 and contoured the sides of my nose, I made sure to connect at the tip and add some coverage by the nostrils!

                    Blush is the easiest part of this entire look, especially if you're using a cream one!  All it requires it you too smile nice and big and stipple up from the apples to your hairline.  Since this look has already turned gothically pale I decided to add neutral rose tones back to my skin rather such frosty pinks, which is what most go for!  Using that same Elf Ultimate Blending Brush+Nyx's Glow Blush, with the motions mentioned above I gave myself a nice flush :).

                         The glow you choose is as important as the blush sheen!  You might be asking yourself, "why the hell does a highlight color matter?" Well, let me explain will you!  If you go bronze, this look falls out of the gothic spectrum.  If you go natural or pale goldish all is well, it fits the concept!  With that being said I took a tiny amount of Nars' Liquid Illuminator in Copacabana and using my  Sephora Pro Small Teardrop Highlighter Brush gently brushed the product on the "c's" of my eyes (top of brow bone down to cheek bones) as well as down the bridge of my nose and on my cupid's bow.  I set the frosty glow with Abh's Illuminator in Starlight.  Basically I followed through with the same side to side brushing motions but when it came time for the powder I made sure to layer it on a bit, just for a more pale, yet not dead appearance!

                                How can you do a gothic look without a red lip OR at least black lip?!  You really can't, nope.  As I shiver away thanks to the heater blowing out, I shall explain the process done :) Simply said, I scrubbed my lips against a soft towel a few times then applied a super light coat of Vaseline Cocoa Butter Kiss Lip Balm.  This is my go to lip balm all year around, it dries quick and gives instant moisture, not to mention the fact it has a soothing vanilla scent!  Right after doing so I proceeded to applying two coats of Colourpop's Avenue liquid lipstick.  If you guys want to see more of this I included the lipstick in my Dark Amethyst tutorial as well as in my Shimmery Thanksgiving Tutorial!  The lips were the second to last step of this entire look; I tend to do the face, the eyes, and finish off with lips and setting powder/spray.  With that being said I dusted a light coat of Makeup Forever's HD Setting Spray under my eyes, on my forehead, between my jaw and cheek contour as well as on my chin.  Everything was set with Urban Decay's All Nighter Spray!  I highly suggest using the setting spray especially in the Wintery months, it refreshes the makeup and allows it to be protected from harsh winds!

*Urban Decay Naked 3: Strange, Dust, Limit, Factory, Blackheart, Buzz

                         I highly suggest grooming your brows before hand with this look in particular!  Being the focus is so prominent on the lips and shadowy effects, a fuzz brow will not do.  I actually went ahead and shaved the tops this way peach fuzz was scarce!  After grooming move onto the actual product application, be sure to have either double ended spoolie such as Anastasia Beverly Hills #12 brush or two separate brushes.  The format I like to follow is spoolie (brush through), line (I line the bottom ONLY), then fill in with light brush strokes (here is where I finish off the top of my brow).

                       As the steps increase so do the photos, be sure to read them left top to right :), be noted that the only brush used for this entire look is a Mac 217, I find it works best with the glitter specks!  The first step to this look besides the brows is applying a nice shimmery base!  With only my ring finger I speared on Mac's Bare Study to my entire lid-brow area as well as smudged the product onto my lower lash line.  Be sure enough product was applied that a sheen is achieved, this helps the next shade tremendously!

                   Speaking of the next shade, this one is a toughie!  Dust is super shimmery however if one does not pick up the shade correctly zero to no pigment is reached.  The method I chose was side to side almost scrubbing up motions in the pan, this allowed me to achieve optimal pigment.  Just like any other shade I took the color onto my lid area with patting+brushing motions, be sure to concentrate the shade in the tear duct!  Build up pigment as many times as you need, its super important for this color to sparkle you'll find out why in a few.  Once you have the main shade that'll be used as a guide start moving towards the crease! With that same 217 gently ease Limit in your crease by using small circular motions and side to side ones weaved in.  The whole point of Limit is to form a "base" crease color, better known as transitional shade.  Have fun with this one and blend away, just be sure to not extend it over towards the eyebrows ALSO be sure the corners are rounded, not sharp.  If you happen to not have the Naked 3, choose any shade thats mauve in tone and matte.  

                     The most IMPORTANT color out of this whole entire look is Factory.  It plays a role in the inner V as well as on the entire lid- let me explain :-)!  As modeled in picture 4, I brushed Factory across my entire lid area as well as blended it in the inner V of my eye.  Now, when I refer to the brushing motion I do not mean smudging!  More of a patting to side to side fluency of blending that works it's way up to the eye socket it what you should be doing.  Especially when working with multiple levels of definition (inner V, Inner inner V, INNER INNER V) it's important to know where the shades go.  For example, the more added to the crease the closer to the outer lid the colors get, thus patience being key! For some added drama I smudged Blackheart in the crease as well as slightly on the lid (which is why my final image looks more purple) and on my lower lash line.

                                Start finishing up the look by dusting each crease color, in the gradience they appear, on the lower lash line.  This step shouldn't be too much of an issue being all it requires is notability to gradience (blackheart, factory, limit, buzz). Too add some shimmer back to my eyes I took my ring finger and lightly patted Buzz in the inner corners of my eye, I figure gothic beauties gotta' sparkle somehow!  Speaking of gothic beauties, smudgy black liner is a must.  I actually got asked if I shopped these photos quite a few times, and I'm here to clarify NO you just gotta build until your hand falls off :').  With this look I avoided wings and went for a smudgy black liner effect!  To do so I took my Bobbi Brown Gel Liner in Black Ink and literally with that same 217 smudged my upper lash line.  This look situated strongly around a minimum use of brushes, so really effortlessly freaking amazing gothic crimson chick.  I took the black liner a TAD into my crease as well and heavily smudged it on my lower lash line.  Using the back end of the brush I then proceeded to heavily lining my waterline!  Finish up the look with some fabulous lashes (Hypnose by Lancome) and falsies that aren't so dramatic, just effortless (Andrea Modlashes).  Hope you guys enjoyed this look, tomorrow night I will be filming another be sure to leave a sub for support <3!