Sunday, January 31, 2016

Aries Glittered Fire Makeup Tutorial

         Why hello there ;)!  Rather doing someone apart of my Valentines Day series I decided to channel my inner self and pour my soul out onto my skin.  Hopefully that does not sound vial, but red is my spirit color and I decided to do a fiery look surrounding it!  Over the course of the next month be prepared for my zodiac series.  It will contain a look for each sign with complementary shades, do be noted this is my take on the Zodiac auras!  Today happens to be Aries because not only is it the first sign it happens to be mine.  Just as the sign goes fiery shades such as red, copper, and yellow are used with a subtle golden glow.  Aside from this being part of a Zodiac series it defiantly can be changed up for any special occasion, party, hell or if you just want to be fabulous.  I used two glitters along with two pigments, for you guys this means be prepared with tons of brushes and paper towels with optional tape.  Also before we get into the look- I used a mint glitter to even the tones out, highly suggest you follow along rather choosing a straight out bright yellow glitter!

                     When I think of myself, I think of clean and clear outlooks on life.  That is EXACTLY how your skin should be for this look, any imperfections will effect the glow!  Now, when I say imperfections I am not referring to blemishes, strictly dry skin or oily skin.  Both are tamable, so get to it!  Since I use  Peter Thomas Roth's FIRMx Peeling Gel once a week as a chemical exfoliation treatment, I delved right in!  This stuff is the best because as your roll you can visibly see the dead skin cells coming off, plus if you allow the enzymes to set for a few minutes more exfoliation is given.  After a few minutes of rolling around, especially around my nose (SUPER dry spot for me), I then allowed it to set and followed through by washing it off with steamy water!  A LOT of people tend to go for cold water but always remember hot water opens pores, cold water shrinks pores, meaning you're working against yourself if you wash your skin throughly with cold water throughout the entire routine.  After my skin was ridded of the FIRMX gel I then applied a light coating of  Fresh's Seaberry Oil to all zones of my face, I made sure to bring it down my neck as well reaching out towards my hairline.  Depending on what hydration system you use is how long you should allow it to sink into your pores, for example my oil is rather thick so compared to regular light oils I average 6 minutes drying time!

                   In the midst of my Aries look I actually was flip flopping between doing my mom's makeup and my own (I'll show you some photos later!), why is this important? Well, I allowed the oil to set a tad longer than it should have. After a good 15 minutes of time I moved into the priming stage, opt in for a primer that contains radiant particles rather matte or natural finishes, this will add to the "fire" effect and form a radiant glow for the products to come.  I chose my absolute FAVORITE primer, Natasha Denona's Face Glow Hydrating Primer, and gently smoothed it out on my skin starting from the center of my face, dragging it out towards my hairline!  Being this product has long term skin benefits and is buildable in coverage, I applied a second coating over my nose since as I said previously I tend to be super dry there.  I let the primer set for 5 minutes (very quick drying) and proceeded to the foundation process :)!

                        A flawless complexion is a MUST for this look, however once again it can't be too matte or "natural" in appearance!  Honestly, I LOVE Estee Lauder's Double Wear Foundation however the packaging is not ergonomically pleasing (super annoying when it comes to pouring it out onto the back of your hand, the foundation is runny too which makes it a nightmare to deal with for the consumer).  If anything I would stick with this line of foundation for the makeup look just for the reason it has buildable coverage and leaves a your skin but better look! With as close to a pea-sized amount as possible onto the back of my hand I poured out a small amount of product. I gently took my Marc Jacobs Face II Sculpting brush and stippled it into the foundation (too warm it up) and began to pat it onto the left side of my face with fluid stippling and buffing motions.  With this foundation in specific, buffing motions should be only used for the outer rims of the face (jaw line, chin, hairline's) and it should be kept to a minimum of downward stroking motions!  After building up a decent amount of coverage to all zones of my skin I let the formula sink into my pores for about 2 minutes, this step is completely optional (the waiting process) only because the cream contouring softens up the product once more, I just enjoy the satisfaction of the product drying down.

                 The cream contouring got a tad whacky.  Normally I NEVER use pink toned highlights but for today as I had completely hit the pan of my regular G10/N10, it had to do!  I think this is sort of a good thing only for the reason I can weave in some tips on how to rock the wrong color (NOT THAT YOU SHOULD HAHA).  When it comes to cream contouring you can use just about any tool you want, wether it be your fingers or a brush, its the placement that matters!  Using a Sephora #20 brush I began to highlight my features using P10 from CoverFx.  Basically, highlighting shades should hit the areas you want to "brighten" or in some cases widen!  I drew two upside down triangles that extended out towards my hairline (this brings light to the center of the face), as well as one single line from the tip of my nose up to my forehead that sprouted out into two separate lines hovering over my brows (creates a gradience up to my forehead and focuses light on the bridge of my nose).  The final step take was a single line from my left jaw to right jaw passing over the chin, use my contouring areas as a GUIDE never for granted!  With that same #20 I then contoured the sides of my nose along with my cheekbones, jaw line, and on my temples (I rarely contour the temples however the bronze tones will work in my favor for this look in specific) using Cover Fx's N100. Blending is SUPER simple, its really the placement that freaks people out!  When blending I like to use my Elf Ultimate Blending Brush, and I tend to stick with light stippling motions with the occasional upward/downward stoke on areas needing that "uplifted effect".  For example, if you blend upwards on your cheek contour rather stippling it in completely, it'll form the illusion of higher draw cheekbones.  On the other hand, if you blend downwards or in large circles it hinders your goal of intense contours OR perhaps just chiseled+defined features!  Due to me using such heavy creams it is extremely important for them to dry out for a few minutes, just as described in my Bombshell Tutorial, if you go forth the creams will get all over the powder formulas and won't form a flawless complexion!

                        Once everything reasonably dried down (yes I am impatient) I then moved forward into bronzing!  Now, if you happen to not have the Makeup Forever Bronze Fusion powders and still want to mimic this look opt in for honey tones, NOTHING pertaining to oranges or dark browns!  With my handy dandy Mac 168 brush I swirled my brush into the gel like powder and gently brushed it on my skin starting from the temples moving down to my cheeks and finally to my jaw line.  For that strong women appearance a powder contour should be done, it just offers more defined features and encompasses what an Aries is, a fighter.  Using Sombre from the Shade+Light Pallet, I blended the shade into the hollows of my cheeks and slightly up to my hairline with the same 168 brush.  I then defined the sides of my nose by drawing two harsh lines using a 219 Mac pencil brush, and with the 168 brush buffed out the harsh lines!

                     Choosing a blush that mimics golden peach or coral tones is the best idea for this look, avoid using pinks!  I chose Becca's Beach Tint in Guava/Moonstone primarily because it gives off a beautiful glow that accents the illuminators to come extremely well.  I went ahead and applied this right from the container using my ring+middle finger together.  Starting from the apples of my cheeks up I gently patted the cream-powder formula on and made sure to blend up towards my hairline!

                       When it comes to the illumination process it is EXTREMELY important you know your high points.  For most, if not all people these areas are the bridge of your nose, cheek bones, chin, cupid's bow, and forehead.  Each area needs a different level of glow, meaning on the chin it'll be more subtle in tone than on the nose!  Also keep in mind adding a illuminator can fix crookedness, know your face!  The first thing I did was form a tacky base using Nars's Liquid Illuminator in Copacabana.  With a pea-sized amount to the back of my hand, I gently brushed the glow on using Sephora's Pro Small Teardrop Highlighter Brush.  I heavily concentrated the product around the C's of my eyes (from the top of your brow down to your cheekbones) as well as on my cupid's bow as these two areas pop more on my face.  Just as the blush mimicked peach/coral tones, so should the following powders!  Using the same Teardrop Highlighter Brush I brushed Champagne Pop onto my cheekbones as well as down the bridge of my nose, and on my cupid's bow.  This product was HEAVLY applied, meaning several layers to get a substantial almost photoshopped glowy appearance.  To form a more eye catching glow I then took Starlight and smudged it right in the center of my cheekbones (adjacent to under eye area) as well as on my forehead and chin!  This look defiantly requires a buttload of glow, but in the end it is SO worth it.  

                         Right after the eyes were complete (you probably have glitter fall out, don't worry that'll be dusted off in a few minutes) I started to fill in my lips using L'oreal's Ginger Spice lip color! Being this look hinders a warrior's personality the ginger toned lip color is PERFECT, not too red and not too brown, just rustic!  I topped the lip color off using Abh's Warm Bronze for a furthered warm lip tone as well as glossy touch. I literally had a mini Lillee attack when I noticed my MUFE HD powder was almost gone.  Despite this I still went forth and set my face using Laura Mercier's Setting Power THOUGH it isn't my favorite.  I applied the powder to my under eye area, on my forehead, between my cheek and jaw contour and on my chin.   To finish things up in the setting department I sprayed on Urban Decay's All Nighter spray.  As an added tip for those executing this look- since the setting powder used is yellow this counteracts the pink tones from the cream contour and in some areas gives off a peachy complexion which is perfect since the look resembles fire!
*ELF Smudge Pot- Gotta Glow
*Makeup Geek Eyeshadow Pan(s): Cocoa Bear, Peach Smoothie, Corrupt, Mocha
*Sugarpill Loose Eyeshadow Pigment(s): Penelope, Asylum 
*OCC Glitter(s): Mint, Gold
*ABH Creme Liner in Jet+ Coral Reef 
                     Strong brows are an absolute must for a strong warrior princessa (don't ask).  For this you should groom beforehand, meaning pluck or shave away the fur! To form strong eyebrows one of the first things I had done is spoolied through each brow using my Anastasia Beverly Hills #12 brush.   Then, going into my ABH Pomade (be sure to choose a color that is complementary to your natural coloring, otherwise it might throw off the look) I lined my lower and upper brow's, proceeding into filling them in with light upward brush flicks.  I finished up by giving one last spoolieing!  Right after the brows I applied Elf's Smudge Pot in Gotta Glow to my entire lid area and smudged it upwards towards my brow bone's.  To show how much pigment I built up I used a variation of two photos (from the top left 1-2), in the first photo it shows how I just smudged the gold on as a base however in the second it shows how I then patted on the pigment.  All of this was done with my ring finger, however a brush shall do!

                         Once I had a decent amount of pigment on the smudge pot I moved along to the crease, don't focus too much on the lid shade being it will be smothered in glitter ;).  Before getting into details be noted that at least one fluffy blending brush is needed as well as a corse one since a major gradience if formed.  Using Sephora's #27 Brush I gently blended Peach Smoothie into my crease using side to side motions.  Try to hold a good amount of pigment with this shade rather making it transparent, work in layers AND DO NOT apply a lump sum to the crease!  To start adding warm tones to the crease I then took Cocoa Bear.  Using my Mac 217 Brush I eased C.B. into the inner V with side to side motions with occasional patting motions on the outer lid.  Just like Peach Smoothie heavily concentrate this color, it should be visible.  To keep the high pigment but still have a gradience simply take the #27 brush (or fluffy brush) and side sweep the crease!  The last color swept into the crease is Mocha, this shade was added just for the purpose of drama and aded depth (avoid super dark browns).  Just like the shades before mocha, focus on side to side motions that concentrate in that specific area of interest.  For this shade I gently patted it onto my outer lid and scooped the color inwards following just a tad below the creasing of my eye socket (with the 217 Brush). 

                  At this point the crease is finished, start working on the fun part, glitterizing! Before anything I mixed Mint & Gold together in a tiny pan, and I also uncapped all the other pigments that will be used! I took a pea-sized amount of Too Faced Glitter Glue and slightly warmed it up on the back of my hand. I then proceeded to smudging+patting it onto my lower lash line's as well as onto both lid's.  Know that the lower lash glue might dry up, pace yourself!  Using my index finger, with the other fingers holding a paper towel under my eyes, I gently patted on the mixture of Mint & Gold to my entire lid.  These two shades will need some product build up, work in layers and continue patting on until you're satisfied with the shine!  After doing so I quickly went into Asylum using a Mac 219 and patted it under my entire lower lash line.  As modeled in image 6 I also added some of the Gold glitter for a out of this world shimmer ;).  The next pigment used is Penelope (my absolute FAVORITE), this color was sharply applied to the inner corners of my eyes, don't worry if the lines are not precise at the moment, once the eyeliner is applied everything balances out!

                       The waterline was rather intricately done, the first thing you should do is get the easy part out of the way- lining your upper lash line in an Egyptian styled wing.  It is probably unclear now, however from the transition of photo 7 to 8 I ended up smudging it out a tad (we will get into that in just a few).  Once you have your sharply lined winged liner, move forth to doing the waterline!   Using the back end of an Urban Decay Naked 3 brush (shader side) I smudged Jet onto the inner and outer thirds of my waterline avoiding the mid area.  Jet happens to be the darkest black I have EVER bought, plus the fact it lasts all day long defiantly an investment to make! After you have set the groundwork for the orange toned liner, begin to smudge Coral Reef right onto the clean space.  As you smudge there will be a notable gradience. This probably will KILL your eyes (sorry :)) but I took a pink sized amount of Asylum and patted it onto Coral Reef for a bright red appearance (this is why in my final photo the orange turns red).  To explain what I wrote above about the smudging transition in photos 7-8, I took Corrupt by Makeup Geek and with a pointed 219 brush took it right under my lower lash line smudging in towards the triangle in my tear duct area. 

                            Finish off the look with a few coats of Lancome's Hypnose Doll Lashes to your bottom and upper lashes.  Though many hate when this occurs, try to "smudge" the mascara on this way a darker black line is formed under the lash line.  Top everything off with some fabulous lashes- I went for subtle lashes just so you can really make out the upper shadow look, anything overly dramatic would take away from the bronzed appearance! By the way, I got paranoid and deiced to brighten the lid shade by patting on Champagne Pop, this is probably why it appears more shimmery than glitter in the final photos.  

           This is the look I had done on my mom, as previously mentioned in the beginning of this blog post!  It mimics the same glitter style done here just with the usage of green hues (OCC Mint glitter on the lid).  Just like me with the issue of my cream contour running out I had to switch to alternative methods of using a lighter foundation, all in all it came out rather well being I multitasked!  If you guys have any requests for Valentines Day email me at OR you can private message me on Insta/Twitter @ Thaeyeballqueen :)!