Sunday, January 31, 2016

Aries Glittered Fire Makeup Tutorial


         Why hello there ;)!  Rather doing someone apart of my Valentines Day series I decided to channel my inner self and pour my soul out onto my skin.  Hopefully that does not sound vial, but red is my spirit color and I decided to do a fiery look surrounding it!  Over the course of the next month be prepared for my zodiac series.  It will contain a look for each sign with complementary shades, do be noted this is my take on the Zodiac auras!  Today happens to be Aries because not only is it the first sign it happens to be mine.  Just as the sign goes fiery shades such as red, copper, and yellow are used with a subtle golden glow.  Aside from this being part of a Zodiac series it defiantly can be changed up for any special occasion, party, hell or if you just want to be fabulous.  I used two glitters along with two pigments, for you guys this means be prepared with tons of brushes and paper towels with optional tape.  Also before we get into the look- I used a mint glitter to even the tones out, highly suggest you follow along rather choosing a straight out bright yellow glitter!


                     When I think of myself, I think of clean and clear outlooks on life.  That is EXACTLY how your skin should be for this look, any imperfections will effect the glow!  Now, when I say imperfections I am not referring to blemishes, strictly dry skin or oily skin.  Both are tamable, so get to it!  Since I use  Peter Thomas Roth's FIRMx Peeling Gel once a week as a chemical exfoliation treatment, I delved right in!  This stuff is the best because as your roll you can visibly see the dead skin cells coming off, plus if you allow the enzymes to set for a few minutes more exfoliation is given.  After a few minutes of rolling around, especially around my nose (SUPER dry spot for me), I then allowed it to set and followed through by washing it off with steamy water!  A LOT of people tend to go for cold water but always remember hot water opens pores, cold water shrinks pores, meaning you're working against yourself if you wash your skin throughly with cold water throughout the entire routine.  After my skin was ridded of the FIRMX gel I then applied a light coating of  Fresh's Seaberry Oil to all zones of my face, I made sure to bring it down my neck as well reaching out towards my hairline.  Depending on what hydration system you use is how long you should allow it to sink into your pores, for example my oil is rather thick so compared to regular light oils I average 6 minutes drying time!

                   In the midst of my Aries look I actually was flip flopping between doing my mom's makeup and my own (I'll show you some photos later!), why is this important? Well, I allowed the oil to set a tad longer than it should have. After a good 15 minutes of time I moved into the priming stage, opt in for a primer that contains radiant particles rather matte or natural finishes, this will add to the "fire" effect and form a radiant glow for the products to come.  I chose my absolute FAVORITE primer, Natasha Denona's Face Glow Hydrating Primer, and gently smoothed it out on my skin starting from the center of my face, dragging it out towards my hairline!  Being this product has long term skin benefits and is buildable in coverage, I applied a second coating over my nose since as I said previously I tend to be super dry there.  I let the primer set for 5 minutes (very quick drying) and proceeded to the foundation process :)!

                        A flawless complexion is a MUST for this look, however once again it can't be too matte or "natural" in appearance!  Honestly, I LOVE Estee Lauder's Double Wear Foundation however the packaging is not ergonomically pleasing (super annoying when it comes to pouring it out onto the back of your hand, the foundation is runny too which makes it a nightmare to deal with for the consumer).  If anything I would stick with this line of foundation for the makeup look just for the reason it has buildable coverage and leaves a your skin but better look! With as close to a pea-sized amount as possible onto the back of my hand I poured out a small amount of product. I gently took my Marc Jacobs Face II Sculpting brush and stippled it into the foundation (too warm it up) and began to pat it onto the left side of my face with fluid stippling and buffing motions.  With this foundation in specific, buffing motions should be only used for the outer rims of the face (jaw line, chin, hairline's) and it should be kept to a minimum of downward stroking motions!  After building up a decent amount of coverage to all zones of my skin I let the formula sink into my pores for about 2 minutes, this step is completely optional (the waiting process) only because the cream contouring softens up the product once more, I just enjoy the satisfaction of the product drying down.

                 The cream contouring got a tad whacky.  Normally I NEVER use pink toned highlights but for today as I had completely hit the pan of my regular G10/N10, it had to do!  I think this is sort of a good thing only for the reason I can weave in some tips on how to rock the wrong color (NOT THAT YOU SHOULD HAHA).  When it comes to cream contouring you can use just about any tool you want, wether it be your fingers or a brush, its the placement that matters!  Using a Sephora #20 brush I began to highlight my features using P10 from CoverFx.  Basically, highlighting shades should hit the areas you want to "brighten" or in some cases widen!  I drew two upside down triangles that extended out towards my hairline (this brings light to the center of the face), as well as one single line from the tip of my nose up to my forehead that sprouted out into two separate lines hovering over my brows (creates a gradience up to my forehead and focuses light on the bridge of my nose).  The final step take was a single line from my left jaw to right jaw passing over the chin, use my contouring areas as a GUIDE never for granted!  With that same #20 I then contoured the sides of my nose along with my cheekbones, jaw line, and on my temples (I rarely contour the temples however the bronze tones will work in my favor for this look in specific) using Cover Fx's N100. Blending is SUPER simple, its really the placement that freaks people out!  When blending I like to use my Elf Ultimate Blending Brush, and I tend to stick with light stippling motions with the occasional upward/downward stoke on areas needing that "uplifted effect".  For example, if you blend upwards on your cheek contour rather stippling it in completely, it'll form the illusion of higher draw cheekbones.  On the other hand, if you blend downwards or in large circles it hinders your goal of intense contours OR perhaps just chiseled+defined features!  Due to me using such heavy creams it is extremely important for them to dry out for a few minutes, just as described in my Bombshell Tutorial, if you go forth the creams will get all over the powder formulas and won't form a flawless complexion!

                        Once everything reasonably dried down (yes I am impatient) I then moved forward into bronzing!  Now, if you happen to not have the Makeup Forever Bronze Fusion powders and still want to mimic this look opt in for honey tones, NOTHING pertaining to oranges or dark browns!  With my handy dandy Mac 168 brush I swirled my brush into the gel like powder and gently brushed it on my skin starting from the temples moving down to my cheeks and finally to my jaw line.  For that strong women appearance a powder contour should be done, it just offers more defined features and encompasses what an Aries is, a fighter.  Using Sombre from the Shade+Light Pallet, I blended the shade into the hollows of my cheeks and slightly up to my hairline with the same 168 brush.  I then defined the sides of my nose by drawing two harsh lines using a 219 Mac pencil brush, and with the 168 brush buffed out the harsh lines!

                     Choosing a blush that mimics golden peach or coral tones is the best idea for this look, avoid using pinks!  I chose Becca's Beach Tint in Guava/Moonstone primarily because it gives off a beautiful glow that accents the illuminators to come extremely well.  I went ahead and applied this right from the container using my ring+middle finger together.  Starting from the apples of my cheeks up I gently patted the cream-powder formula on and made sure to blend up towards my hairline!

                       When it comes to the illumination process it is EXTREMELY important you know your high points.  For most, if not all people these areas are the bridge of your nose, cheek bones, chin, cupid's bow, and forehead.  Each area needs a different level of glow, meaning on the chin it'll be more subtle in tone than on the nose!  Also keep in mind adding a illuminator can fix crookedness, know your face!  The first thing I did was form a tacky base using Nars's Liquid Illuminator in Copacabana.  With a pea-sized amount to the back of my hand, I gently brushed the glow on using Sephora's Pro Small Teardrop Highlighter Brush.  I heavily concentrated the product around the C's of my eyes (from the top of your brow down to your cheekbones) as well as on my cupid's bow as these two areas pop more on my face.  Just as the blush mimicked peach/coral tones, so should the following powders!  Using the same Teardrop Highlighter Brush I brushed Champagne Pop onto my cheekbones as well as down the bridge of my nose, and on my cupid's bow.  This product was HEAVLY applied, meaning several layers to get a substantial almost photoshopped glowy appearance.  To form a more eye catching glow I then took Starlight and smudged it right in the center of my cheekbones (adjacent to under eye area) as well as on my forehead and chin!  This look defiantly requires a buttload of glow, but in the end it is SO worth it.  

                         Right after the eyes were complete (you probably have glitter fall out, don't worry that'll be dusted off in a few minutes) I started to fill in my lips using L'oreal's Ginger Spice lip color! Being this look hinders a warrior's personality the ginger toned lip color is PERFECT, not too red and not too brown, just rustic!  I topped the lip color off using Abh's Warm Bronze for a furthered warm lip tone as well as glossy touch. I literally had a mini Lillee attack when I noticed my MUFE HD powder was almost gone.  Despite this I still went forth and set my face using Laura Mercier's Setting Power THOUGH it isn't my favorite.  I applied the powder to my under eye area, on my forehead, between my cheek and jaw contour and on my chin.   To finish things up in the setting department I sprayed on Urban Decay's All Nighter spray.  As an added tip for those executing this look- since the setting powder used is yellow this counteracts the pink tones from the cream contour and in some areas gives off a peachy complexion which is perfect since the look resembles fire!
*ELF Smudge Pot- Gotta Glow
*Makeup Geek Eyeshadow Pan(s): Cocoa Bear, Peach Smoothie, Corrupt, Mocha
*Sugarpill Loose Eyeshadow Pigment(s): Penelope, Asylum 
*OCC Glitter(s): Mint, Gold
*ABH Creme Liner in Jet+ Coral Reef 
                     Strong brows are an absolute must for a strong warrior princessa (don't ask).  For this you should groom beforehand, meaning pluck or shave away the fur! To form strong eyebrows one of the first things I had done is spoolied through each brow using my Anastasia Beverly Hills #12 brush.   Then, going into my ABH Pomade (be sure to choose a color that is complementary to your natural coloring, otherwise it might throw off the look) I lined my lower and upper brow's, proceeding into filling them in with light upward brush flicks.  I finished up by giving one last spoolieing!  Right after the brows I applied Elf's Smudge Pot in Gotta Glow to my entire lid area and smudged it upwards towards my brow bone's.  To show how much pigment I built up I used a variation of two photos (from the top left 1-2), in the first photo it shows how I just smudged the gold on as a base however in the second it shows how I then patted on the pigment.  All of this was done with my ring finger, however a brush shall do!

                         Once I had a decent amount of pigment on the smudge pot I moved along to the crease, don't focus too much on the lid shade being it will be smothered in glitter ;).  Before getting into details be noted that at least one fluffy blending brush is needed as well as a corse one since a major gradience if formed.  Using Sephora's #27 Brush I gently blended Peach Smoothie into my crease using side to side motions.  Try to hold a good amount of pigment with this shade rather making it transparent, work in layers AND DO NOT apply a lump sum to the crease!  To start adding warm tones to the crease I then took Cocoa Bear.  Using my Mac 217 Brush I eased C.B. into the inner V with side to side motions with occasional patting motions on the outer lid.  Just like Peach Smoothie heavily concentrate this color, it should be visible.  To keep the high pigment but still have a gradience simply take the #27 brush (or fluffy brush) and side sweep the crease!  The last color swept into the crease is Mocha, this shade was added just for the purpose of drama and aded depth (avoid super dark browns).  Just like the shades before mocha, focus on side to side motions that concentrate in that specific area of interest.  For this shade I gently patted it onto my outer lid and scooped the color inwards following just a tad below the creasing of my eye socket (with the 217 Brush). 

                  At this point the crease is finished, start working on the fun part, glitterizing! Before anything I mixed Mint & Gold together in a tiny pan, and I also uncapped all the other pigments that will be used! I took a pea-sized amount of Too Faced Glitter Glue and slightly warmed it up on the back of my hand. I then proceeded to smudging+patting it onto my lower lash line's as well as onto both lid's.  Know that the lower lash glue might dry up, pace yourself!  Using my index finger, with the other fingers holding a paper towel under my eyes, I gently patted on the mixture of Mint & Gold to my entire lid.  These two shades will need some product build up, work in layers and continue patting on until you're satisfied with the shine!  After doing so I quickly went into Asylum using a Mac 219 and patted it under my entire lower lash line.  As modeled in image 6 I also added some of the Gold glitter for a out of this world shimmer ;).  The next pigment used is Penelope (my absolute FAVORITE), this color was sharply applied to the inner corners of my eyes, don't worry if the lines are not precise at the moment, once the eyeliner is applied everything balances out!

                       The waterline was rather intricately done, the first thing you should do is get the easy part out of the way- lining your upper lash line in an Egyptian styled wing.  It is probably unclear now, however from the transition of photo 7 to 8 I ended up smudging it out a tad (we will get into that in just a few).  Once you have your sharply lined winged liner, move forth to doing the waterline!   Using the back end of an Urban Decay Naked 3 brush (shader side) I smudged Jet onto the inner and outer thirds of my waterline avoiding the mid area.  Jet happens to be the darkest black I have EVER bought, plus the fact it lasts all day long defiantly an investment to make! After you have set the groundwork for the orange toned liner, begin to smudge Coral Reef right onto the clean space.  As you smudge there will be a notable gradience. This probably will KILL your eyes (sorry :)) but I took a pink sized amount of Asylum and patted it onto Coral Reef for a bright red appearance (this is why in my final photo the orange turns red).  To explain what I wrote above about the smudging transition in photos 7-8, I took Corrupt by Makeup Geek and with a pointed 219 brush took it right under my lower lash line smudging in towards the triangle in my tear duct area. 

                            Finish off the look with a few coats of Lancome's Hypnose Doll Lashes to your bottom and upper lashes.  Though many hate when this occurs, try to "smudge" the mascara on this way a darker black line is formed under the lash line.  Top everything off with some fabulous lashes- I went for subtle lashes just so you can really make out the upper shadow look, anything overly dramatic would take away from the bronzed appearance! By the way, I got paranoid and deiced to brighten the lid shade by patting on Champagne Pop, this is probably why it appears more shimmery than glitter in the final photos.  


           This is the look I had done on my mom, as previously mentioned in the beginning of this blog post!  It mimics the same glitter style done here just with the usage of green hues (OCC Mint glitter on the lid).  Just like me with the issue of my cream contour running out I had to switch to alternative methods of using a lighter foundation, all in all it came out rather well being I multitasked!  If you guys have any requests for Valentines Day email me at thaeyeballqueen@gmail.com OR you can private message me on Insta/Twitter @ Thaeyeballqueen :)!

Friday, January 29, 2016

Sensual Valentine's Day Bombshell Makeup Tutorial


              For the next few weeks I will start rolling out my Valentines Day looks, I have heard ALLLL your requests and will be sure to execute them!  This one is more of a Victoria's Secret bombshell look but it can easily be altered in the manner of being alluring with the switch of a lip color or  the deepening of shadow shades.  Finally, I have broken apart from my Natasha Denona line (FOR NOW) just for the reasoning I want to give your guys a diverse outlook on my tutorials!  Be noted that this look in specific can be changed to have an everyday twist.  For example, without lashes, less of a harsh crease, and a toned down pink lipstick this can be the ultimate sexy everyday smokey eye, you just gotta' be the right person to fit it!  While this look encompasses a slight bit more products than usual it is only due to the factor I mixed and matched different pallet colors; there is always a way to compromise especially with pallets containing the same tones.  Anyhoo be sure to check out the gothic opposite to the look and be sure to prep your skin well, flawless skin is a main focus here :)!


                             As mentioned above, having flawless skin is a must in this look (heavily ties into the gothic opposite because the same techniques are used, however this is done with an "angelic" touch).  Just a quickey- I actually took a shower beforehand and braided my hair in two french braids, this gives a super beachy hair style, and yes hair tutorials are soon too come ;).  In the shower I used my usual  Murad Time Release Acne Cleaner (helps clear up my complexion) and then followed through by steaming the foam off with hot water.  As always I set everything with Fresh's Seaberry Oil.  Just for the sake of replicating a Victorias Secret Bombshell adding a touch of oil to your routine won't kill ya', it'll just bring a lit from within glow and offer a tad more moisture.  If you happen to have breakouts this is a good idea because despite having cluttered skin,  it is clean and dry patch free thus making it super easy to perfect, plus the fact in some cases oil can tame acne!

                   Just as always, right after allowing the oil to seep into my pores I moved along to the priming stage.  For a look like this defiantly pull out the green/peach/yellow primers (color correcting) it will help draw focus to the eyes as well as lips!  I however opted in for using the equivalent to a clear BB/CC cream, Natasha Denona's Face Glow Hydrating Primer.  Though this is a hydrating and colorless base, it defiantly has improved my skin and preforms well in covering surface area imperfections (fine lines, dry patches, weird looking acne marks).  When it comes to jarred primer I like to take a finger tip sized amount and dash it on each zone of the face (left cheek, right cheek, forehead, chin) and then gently blend it out towards my hair line!  Always remember to blend out past the actual face for the most natural finish (if you prime one spot and do not primer the other a noticeable difference is seen).  I allowed this priming base to set for a good 5 minutes, remember every base requires different steps.  Before moving on I'd like to elaborate on my last statement just to avoid confusion- people using color correcting primers have to wait longer amounts of time than those using universal priming bases due to the extra benefits woven in!  On the other hand, those using acne fighting bases might need to follow through with another treatment.  Always use my information as guide, develop your own way's!

                   Next up is the foundation application!  It took me a total of 6 minutes to decide what foundation I wanted to use (as many of you know I adore the ND Face Glow, tough life breaking apart from it).  This process went by super quick despite the sad moments that occurred since I used a rounded  Makeup Geek Stippling Foundation Brush. With exactly one pump of Becca's Full Coverage Creme I began to gently stipple on the product in a circle opened by a surrounding circle.  I continued the stippling process until I finally reached my under eye area and at the point buffed the product out to my hairline.  The same method was taken onto the other side of my face along with a light brushing on my forehead and chin.  Be sure to choose a skin tone foundation with lots of pigment present, the least of your worries should be color matching at this point!  Allow your foundation to set anywhere between 1-2 minutes before moving onto cream contouring (NOT optional).

               As said before, cream contouring is not optional today!  If you want that flawless model like skin, it's a must.   This step is actual not quite difficult as most put it out to be, it requires just the knowledge of blending skills and placement skills.  For example, just because one might have a shaky hand this doesn't impede the process, easily the creams can be dragged around when you use a fluffy blending brush, or perhaps sponge.  The power lies within you guys, just have to know your face and what looks best!  For me, started off by drawing two upside triangles under my eyes, one line from the tip of my nose up to my forehead which sprouted into two lines hovering my eyebrows, and one line from my left jaw to my right jaw using ABH Banana and my ring finger!  With that same finger I took N100 and contoured the sides of my nose and hollows of my cheeks, for a little extra definition I took the darker cream onto my crease and under my lip this enhances the lips and defines the eyes more.  To blend all the creams in I used a simple Elf Ultimate Blending Brush.  Basically working from the lower half of my face up I used consistent light patting/stippling and buffing motions.  This brush is ideal for any blending primarily because it has a rounded surface with duo fibre bristles thus, really get's in there unlike other brushes!  Once you have blended your creams in, or perhaps liquids (you can use different color foundations to contour/highlight), allow it to sit for a few minutes.  If you go straight into powders they will cling to the creams and have little pigment!

                       Speaking of powders the first thing used after the contour is Benefit's Hoola Bronzer!  As said in many of my blog posts, it is extremely important to incorporate a bronzer in your routine.  You might be asking, "well...why?"  Without it, especially after cream contouring, you'll have a grayish skin tone, which is where the help of a bronzer comes in since it adds warmth!  If you happen to opt in for a matte bronze such as the one I used you can go forth and skip the extra step of powder defining the contour!  Besides all of this, with my Mac 168 brush I brushed the bronzing powder from my temples, down to the hollows of my cheeks and finally to under my jawline.  These are areas the sun would naturally hit, sans the sides of one's nose.  I prefer to keep the nose taupe in tone rather bronzy just because it creates a more shadowed effect!  To define my cheekbones and nose a tad better I took the contour shade from Smashbox's Contour Kit and with the same Mac 168 I eased the dark brown in.

                      Avoid using any reds or purples for blush, stick to bright bubblegum pinks to form a sweet flush!  I opted in for Stila's Watercolor Blush in Water Lily since it has gold reflections, which accents the shadow and highlight color used well!  With my ring and index finger together I gently patted+blended the pink on starting from the apples of my cheeks moving up to my hairline.  Since I was already using my fingers I decided to switch up my regular illuminizing routine!  Using Benefit's High Beam I brushed single lines on the high points of my face; the bridge of my nose, my cheek bones, under my brows, cupid's bow and on my chin/forehead.  With those same two fingers as modeled on the right, I gently tapped and blended the product downwards into my skin.  To set the glow I dusted on Sephora's Stardust with my Elf Concealer brush, this was applied to any areas the liquid touched!  Be sure to choose golden or peach toned illuminizer's anything pink will reflect poorly against the shadow and lipstick shades (if you follow my look to a t).

                      Right after my eyes were finished up I proceeded to applying a light coat of LBB to my lips.  For an extra shine I took Zoe from Buxom and applied the gaze to my entire lip area, if you want a "plump" effect simply highlight the cupid's bow more OR SLIGHTLY over line the top and bottom lips!  Using anything with slight magenta tones is the way to go with this look, offers a "sweetheart" appearance while a red while yield a sexy vixen look!  To set my face I took my Sephora Pro Small Teardrop Highlighter Brush and gently dusted Laura Mercier's setting powder over all zones of my face (generally areas you highlighted such as the under eye area, forehead, chin, between the cheek/jaw contour ect.).  To just ensure my makeup remained fresh and kiss proof all day I sprayed on Urban Decay's All Nighter, this stuff is the bomb if you happen to be using accident prone makeup (easily slips off, wears harshly off during the day, or flakes).  

*Lorac Unzipped Pallet, Unbelievable, Untamed, Undercover
*Too Faced Chocolate Bon Bons Pallet, Sprinkles, Almond Truffle, Mocha

                 Just as always use the photos above as a guide to what steps were done, each individual picture  represents a technique explained down below!  With that being said, in the first photo I had primed my entire eye and done my brows.  These are two general steps you should work to include in ANY makeup look you want to execute!  To not be redundant in what I say weekly, I moreover spoolied through my brows, lined them, filled them in, and then gave them an extra spoolieing with my Anastasia Beverly Hills #12 brush.  After doing my brows I smudged Nyx's Jumbo Eye Pencil in Milk over my entire lid area and made sure to blend it under my lower lash line as well as up to my brow using my ring finger!  If you crave a smokey eye perhaps you could experiment with a black base, for the sake of mimicking a sensual "bedroom" eye makeup look white or neutral tones is the best way to go, plus the fact it enchases color tremendously.

                       The first shade added to my lid is Unbelievable.  As you can see throughout the course of the photos the shade turns like a seashell pink, don't worry the reason for that WILL be explained.  With any stiff eyeshadow brush (Mac 239) OR your finger gently pat the shimmery shade over your entire eyelid.  Due to the high shimmer reflects it is best to work in layers and build up the color!  With that same 239 brush I then took Sprinkles from the Chocolate Bon Bons Pallet and patted it in the inner third of my lid.  After building up decent pigment I then swiped the brush across my lid with an EXTREMELY LIGHT dusting (this is why Unbelievable turns peachy in tone). 

                       In order to build drama in the crease you must be sure to work your transitional shade in well!  I opted in for the color Almond truffle primarily because it accents the warm/cool mixture in tones well.  Using a fluffy blending brush (Sephora #27 Brush) I gently blended the color into my crease with a variety of side to side and circular motions.  Though the color will expand outwards drastically you want to avoid blending up to the brow OR below the lash line!  Switching to a denser blending brush, I took Mocha and eased it into my inner V with very slight side to side motions.  When it comes to the inner V don't be afraid to pack on pigment, be sure to also follow the creasing of your eye socket, this helps to form a clean line as well as open your eyes up more!  Now the major part comes into play- if you truly want a sexy and smoked out eye defiantly don't skip this step, however if you're looking for a soft angelic smokey eye stop here and move onto the eyeliner.  With that same Mac 217 Brush, I began to pat Untamed onto my outer lid area.  Once the shade was patted on I then followed through by tracing the line of my eye socket and gently flicking my brush up towards the other colors (basically circular and side to side motions with a little twist!).

                        Though the photo is not present (got really into the look and forgot to snap a picture), I smudged most of the shades used onto the lower lash line.  The gradience follows as; Untamed, Unbelievable, Sprinkles, Undercover.  These shades can be alternated anyway you'd want however the way it goes from dark-light provides an eye opening appearance and more sultry look! Speaking of dark-light, I HEAVILY smudged on Bobbi Brown's Gel Liner in Black Ink with a Mac 209 Eye Liner Brush.   Not only was the black applied to my waterline and taken all the way into the tear ducts, I also made sure to heavily line my upper lash line/upper waterline with a mini flick at the end. Just to avoid confusion- when I say "heavily lined" I am referring to me smudging the black so it appears to be a thicker and smoked out line!  I began to finish the look up by applying several coats of Lancome's Hypnose Doll Lashes to my lashes (focus on smoking the lower lash line out with the mascara of your choice, this will help bring a sensual vibe).  The last step is to choose super fluffy lashes and apply them!  I personally am loathing at the fact I lost all my House Of Lashes Iconic's, but as a reference point, choosing lashes of that style will hinder the goal here which is to form a sexy sensual vibe!  With that being the case I lightly applied a coating of lash glue to the 110 lashes and proceeded to positioning them onto my upper lash line.

                       Hopefully you guys enjoyed this look as much as I did (thank you for recommending it Anastasia!)  If you want to see my other look with the Lorac Pro you can click on this link :): Feathered Romance.  The look mentioned previously is just as good for Valentines day and offers an alternative to beauties with brown/hazel eyes who aren't into rose tones!

Saturday, January 23, 2016

Gothic Crimson Lip Smokey Eye Makeup Tutorial


            It is absolutely freezing outside, not to mention the fact a Winter storm is on the rise, never a good mix for the skin!  Be prepped for TONS of photos, I wanted to spoil you guys since I've been m.i.a for a few days.  Why have I been m.i.a? Well, let's just leave it as I am lashless and it stumped me. As a result of this lashes endeavor which is due to me vacuuming them up once again, I ended up going to the drugstore and buying this fab lashes.  While they're not quite my typical style they gave this look an almost "photoshopped" on lash appearance!  Be prepped for some heavy appliance of makeup, whenever wearing crimson red or any red for that matter it's best to cancel out any redness in your skin.  Especially with this brisk weather, my skin is a huge red dot, like Rudolf but redder :).  This can be paired around numerous ways, since I'm an optimist I'll tell you the best part first!  This look can be even worn as a daily smokey since it's not too dramatic, only downside is the lipstick might ware off a tad since it is a liquid lip, but that was not an issue for me~ Just as a reminder I have decided to ADD a Q/A section to my blog, when I finally work on adding it to my blog I'll tweet cha' all.

*Nars Liquid Illuminator, Copacabana 
*ABH Illuminator, Starlight
*Colourpop Avenue Liquid Lipstick 

                   I swear, my next blog post will not feature the same Natasha Denona Products over and over again!  I just can't help myself, the finish is always flawless and glowy.  IF you guys want to see my review on those products, since I keep using them just click the pink link :)!  Anyhoo, one of the first things done was me throughly washing my skin.  For today I just followed my normal morning routine with Murad's Time Release Acne Cleaner+Bobbi Brown's Buffing Grains.  Generally I just mix the two together and scrub away, but for today I gently worked in layers meaning, one layer of the gel and another of the grains!  I then washed the mixture off throughly with hot steamed water and pat dried my skin.  I then finished off everything with my Fresh Seaberry Oil.  Especially for the winter months, this oil is the bomb!  I allowed it to set for a good 10 minutes this way some of my dry patches were tamed :)

                        Perhaps I should edit the first line of the previous paragraph because I am NOT giving up this Natasha Denona Primer.  Ever.  This has not only helped my skin on days without makeup, it provides such a beautiful coverage level to even fine lines out!  With a finger sized amount I dotted the primer on the apples of my cheeks, on the bridge of my nose, and a tad on my chin+forehead.  With swift blending motions I gently eased the primer in and made sure it extended out towards my hairline!  This stuff dries super quick, within 5 minutes I was on my way to the foundation step.

            The most bizarre thing about this foundation is it covers my hives amazingly!  Some might say "well, its a foundation it should cover..duh", guys you have no idea.  Some foundations are so heavily concentrated they don't cover they simply cake on, this on the other hand is super creamy thus makes for better blendativity!  Exactly one one pump of foundation on the back of my hand I took my Marc Jacobs Face II Sculpting brush and worked the product in.  Before working anything in I always like to stroke the foundation a few times just to warm it up!  After doing so I begin to pat the product from under my left eye (basically the center) to my hairline.  I tend to follow the lines of where I will highlight, sort of weird but it keeps to color concentrated, thus longer wear.  Following through with the patting and the MINOR uses of downward strokes, I took any excess and gently stippled it to my forehead.  This foundation really doesn't require much, but as a general rule work in layers there is nooooooo rush!  I allowed the foundation to sink into my pores for 3 minutes time then moved onto the next step.


                 Even if the foundation did a poor job of covering where it counts is the cream contour and highlighting!  When doing people's makeup, referring to those with bad acne, I actually avoid using a spot concealer technique, that is how well these cover.  Using a simple concealer brush (this came with a Sephora gift set a few years ago, any brush will do.  You can even use your fingers!) I began by cream highlighting.  With Cover Fx's G10 I gently drew two upside down triangles under my eyes that extended towards my hairline (to brighten the center of my face up), I also drew three sprouting lines on my forehead that stemmed down to the tip of my nose along with a line from my left jaw to right jaw!  These are all areas of my face I like to "brighten" and in some case "widen".  To contour I took a shade quite a few tones darker than my coloring, Cover Fx N100, and with the edge of Sephora's concealer brush I contoured the sides of my nose, my crease, and the hollows of my cheeks!  Once again, these are areas I'd like to carve out and make more prominent, or perhaps smaller!   The placement of the cream products is the biggest emphasize on this whole concept, blending is a breeze!  For me, I like to take my Elf Ultimate Blending Brush and starting from my bottom left jaw go in with stippling motions.  When I have the urge to tug or use circular motions I resort to downward strokes!  This avoided any peach fuzz from being too visible, unless you shave, and gives a more flawless appearance.  I really should let my contour sit as creams can be super sticky after application but eh screw it NEXT STEP.

                        I have ruined Makeup Forever's Bronze Fusion powder from my sticky cream brush, literally a light film of my contour remains.  I guess gel's and creams just don't mix- oh well.  With my Mac 168 brush I swirled into the bronzer and lightly tapped off excess product against the container.  Then starting from the hollows of my cheeks I began blending the product in one swift motion up wards to my temples.  I took the product back down the hollows and right around to my jaw line+under my chin.  This adds a lot of much needed warmth back to the skin!  Especially after contouring it is super important to give a bronzy flush, contouring alone sullen's the skin out. 
          To set the contour fully I took the dark bronze shade from my Marc Jacobs Filtering Powders Pallet and gently contoured the hollows of my cheeks as well as my jaw line.  For some extra definition I took a Mac 219 and contoured the sides of my nose, I made sure to connect at the tip and add some coverage by the nostrils!

                    Blush is the easiest part of this entire look, especially if you're using a cream one!  All it requires it you too smile nice and big and stipple up from the apples to your hairline.  Since this look has already turned gothically pale I decided to add neutral rose tones back to my skin rather such frosty pinks, which is what most go for!  Using that same Elf Ultimate Blending Brush+Nyx's Glow Blush, with the motions mentioned above I gave myself a nice flush :).

                         The glow you choose is as important as the blush sheen!  You might be asking yourself, "why the hell does a highlight color matter?" Well, let me explain will you!  If you go bronze, this look falls out of the gothic spectrum.  If you go natural or pale goldish all is well, it fits the concept!  With that being said I took a tiny amount of Nars' Liquid Illuminator in Copacabana and using my  Sephora Pro Small Teardrop Highlighter Brush gently brushed the product on the "c's" of my eyes (top of brow bone down to cheek bones) as well as down the bridge of my nose and on my cupid's bow.  I set the frosty glow with Abh's Illuminator in Starlight.  Basically I followed through with the same side to side brushing motions but when it came time for the powder I made sure to layer it on a bit, just for a more pale, yet not dead appearance!

                                How can you do a gothic look without a red lip OR at least black lip?!  You really can't, nope.  As I shiver away thanks to the heater blowing out, I shall explain the process done :) Simply said, I scrubbed my lips against a soft towel a few times then applied a super light coat of Vaseline Cocoa Butter Kiss Lip Balm.  This is my go to lip balm all year around, it dries quick and gives instant moisture, not to mention the fact it has a soothing vanilla scent!  Right after doing so I proceeded to applying two coats of Colourpop's Avenue liquid lipstick.  If you guys want to see more of this I included the lipstick in my Dark Amethyst tutorial as well as in my Shimmery Thanksgiving Tutorial!  The lips were the second to last step of this entire look; I tend to do the face, the eyes, and finish off with lips and setting powder/spray.  With that being said I dusted a light coat of Makeup Forever's HD Setting Spray under my eyes, on my forehead, between my jaw and cheek contour as well as on my chin.  Everything was set with Urban Decay's All Nighter Spray!  I highly suggest using the setting spray especially in the Wintery months, it refreshes the makeup and allows it to be protected from harsh winds!

*Urban Decay Naked 3: Strange, Dust, Limit, Factory, Blackheart, Buzz

                         I highly suggest grooming your brows before hand with this look in particular!  Being the focus is so prominent on the lips and shadowy effects, a fuzz brow will not do.  I actually went ahead and shaved the tops this way peach fuzz was scarce!  After grooming move onto the actual product application, be sure to have either double ended spoolie such as Anastasia Beverly Hills #12 brush or two separate brushes.  The format I like to follow is spoolie (brush through), line (I line the bottom ONLY), then fill in with light brush strokes (here is where I finish off the top of my brow).

                       As the steps increase so do the photos, be sure to read them left top to right :), be noted that the only brush used for this entire look is a Mac 217, I find it works best with the glitter specks!  The first step to this look besides the brows is applying a nice shimmery base!  With only my ring finger I speared on Mac's Bare Study to my entire lid-brow area as well as smudged the product onto my lower lash line.  Be sure enough product was applied that a sheen is achieved, this helps the next shade tremendously!

                   Speaking of the next shade, this one is a toughie!  Dust is super shimmery however if one does not pick up the shade correctly zero to no pigment is reached.  The method I chose was side to side almost scrubbing up motions in the pan, this allowed me to achieve optimal pigment.  Just like any other shade I took the color onto my lid area with patting+brushing motions, be sure to concentrate the shade in the tear duct!  Build up pigment as many times as you need, its super important for this color to sparkle you'll find out why in a few.  Once you have the main shade that'll be used as a guide start moving towards the crease! With that same 217 gently ease Limit in your crease by using small circular motions and side to side ones weaved in.  The whole point of Limit is to form a "base" crease color, better known as transitional shade.  Have fun with this one and blend away, just be sure to not extend it over towards the eyebrows ALSO be sure the corners are rounded, not sharp.  If you happen to not have the Naked 3, choose any shade thats mauve in tone and matte.  

                     The most IMPORTANT color out of this whole entire look is Factory.  It plays a role in the inner V as well as on the entire lid- let me explain :-)!  As modeled in picture 4, I brushed Factory across my entire lid area as well as blended it in the inner V of my eye.  Now, when I refer to the brushing motion I do not mean smudging!  More of a patting to side to side fluency of blending that works it's way up to the eye socket it what you should be doing.  Especially when working with multiple levels of definition (inner V, Inner inner V, INNER INNER V) it's important to know where the shades go.  For example, the more added to the crease the closer to the outer lid the colors get, thus patience being key! For some added drama I smudged Blackheart in the crease as well as slightly on the lid (which is why my final image looks more purple) and on my lower lash line.

                                Start finishing up the look by dusting each crease color, in the gradience they appear, on the lower lash line.  This step shouldn't be too much of an issue being all it requires is notability to gradience (blackheart, factory, limit, buzz). Too add some shimmer back to my eyes I took my ring finger and lightly patted Buzz in the inner corners of my eye, I figure gothic beauties gotta' sparkle somehow!  Speaking of gothic beauties, smudgy black liner is a must.  I actually got asked if I shopped these photos quite a few times, and I'm here to clarify NO you just gotta build until your hand falls off :').  With this look I avoided wings and went for a smudgy black liner effect!  To do so I took my Bobbi Brown Gel Liner in Black Ink and literally with that same 217 smudged my upper lash line.  This look situated strongly around a minimum use of brushes, so really effortlessly freaking amazing gothic crimson chick.  I took the black liner a TAD into my crease as well and heavily smudged it on my lower lash line.  Using the back end of the brush I then proceeded to heavily lining my waterline!  Finish up the look with some fabulous lashes (Hypnose by Lancome) and falsies that aren't so dramatic, just effortless (Andrea Modlashes).  Hope you guys enjoyed this look, tomorrow night I will be filming another be sure to leave a sub for support <3!