Monday, December 7, 2015

Icy Blue Winter Makeup Tutorial


    Winter is right around the corner and it is driving me with an overload of look ideas!  My inspiration today is all thanks to my mom, she had come up with the idea of a look representing someone who just stepped out of a winter wonderland.  While some people might be scared to wear the frosty blues, I assure you with a light pink lip, almost nude, it'll feel just like you're wearing a bronzed smokey eye!

   This look also was a break away for me since I used the BH Cosmetics Cool Matte Pallet, and BH Cosmetics Cool Shimmer Pallet.  Both are reasonably priced and as you can see from the shadow look, pack a punch in color!  I notice often times people put these sort of Indie brands down and in my personal opinion I contribute it to ignorance.  If the product is used correctly, the correct primer is used, and application process is formal the product should be fine unless it really is shit, excuse my French.

   Like any other blog post of mine, you guys can always swap the lip colors!  If you do so please send me your recreation of the look presented here at thaeyeballqueen@gmail.com.



*NYX Cream Blush, Boho Chic
Lips are Mac Fleshpot with ABH Liquid Lipstick in Milkshake blended in the middle

   First off, when starting this look be sure to exfoliate, especially if you're opting in for the Estee Lauder Double Wear Foundation!  I started my morning routine with Fresh's Rose Mask and allowed it to set for seven minutes.  While not all moisture is added to my skin it helps to create a cleaner skin appearance when washed off.  By the way, since I am sick and my nose is riddled with dry snot- I am living proof this mask works, oh and hey I also added Living Proof No Frizz Nourishing Styling Cream for added volume to my hair.  

        Primer is one of the easiest things to accomplish in makeup since it sheers out clear.  Using my favorite primer, Hourglass's N28, I applied the equivalent to a pump into my palm.  I say the "equivalent" because my pump stopped working so I have to remove the whole contraction and rub the tube onto the palm of my hand.  Once you have the pump or equivalent of pump ready to be disbursed, rub your hands together and just like a face moisturizer apply even across all zones of the face.

    Generally you should let your primer set for 3-5 minutes depending on the thickness and purpose it serves to your skin.  While letting my primer set I went ahead and saturated my Beauty Blender Pro in lukewarm water.  After I had dampened the Beauty Blender, I proceeded to mixing my foundation with a thick creamy shimmer product, specifically the Elf Shimmering Facial Whip.  By mixing the Estee Lauder foundation with the shimmer product it creates a more luminous base which screams Winter wonderland.  By the time you have mixed the two together, or perhaps you already have a glowy foundation, your skin should have fully absorbed the primer!  

   Using the rounder side of the beauty blender I dipped it into the mixture on the back of my hand and began stippling it onto my skin. I like to start from the center of my face and drag it out towards my hairline, and I also prefer using light coats of product and building up wherever it is needed.  While disbursing most of the product on my cheeks with nice and easy stippling motions, and sometimes patting on areas needing more coverage, I then took excess product and stippled it right onto my forehead, nose, and chin.  

     You guys know the drill- right after foundation I go contour happy, literally.  There are so many different ways to contour so it is fun to change it up daily.  Today I incorporated the method I used two days ago which involved applying the highlight then mixing in thicker concealer on areas that need the product most.  This just avoids multiple layers being applied, and a less cakey appearance.  
With my Urban Decay Naked Skin Concealer, which happens to be my new found love, I highlighted my under eye area with large upside down triangles; my left jaw line to my chin, to my right jaw line; then stemming down from my forehead a \|/ shape going straight down to my nose, connecting back to my chin.  From the tube I squeezed and applied Makeup Forever's Full Coverage Concealer to blemishes hidden under the highlight.  

**DO NOT BLEND YET. **

       Once your highlight is placed move along to the contour!  I contoured with my fingers, and with Cover Fx's N100 Foundation.  I wasn't quite feeling brushes today.  In fact for the highlight I used the doe-foot applicators right from the tube's.  At any rate, I drew a line with my finger under the natural hollows of my cheeks, right on my jaw line, and the sides of my nose!  

   Blending should be rather simple to do since it involves two motions: stippling, and circular motions.  I used my ELF Ultimate Blending Brush for this and began working in the contour for the lower half of my face.  Occasionally I wiped off my brush.  After reaching the middle part of my face which is were the eye highlight should end I began with upward strokes for the cheek contour.  This makes for a "lifted" effect.  Then, I patted and blended the under eye for the most natural look possible.  On areas I applied concealer I slightly stippled it on with harsher motions to make sure the product stayed in place.  As for the nose and rest of the fact I continued with circular motions and followed the natural contours of my face!

    While you might look like a model by this point, you probably look sullen and deadly due to concealer on the lips from blending and well the color taken out of you.  Fear not Givenchy's Healthy Glow Powder is on the way.  Honestly, this stuff might seem very dark but if sheered out correctly it gives a wonderful glow and balance to the skin!  With Tarte's Swirl Powder Bronzer and Contour brush, I patted it into the bronzing powder and then swept it from my temples, down to the hollows of my cheeks, and back down the my jaw line.  For added definition you may want to add this to the sides of your nose.  The product is gel based making it neither shimmery or matte so it should be fine as a contour, if you'd prefer it over another step of actual contouring.  

   Speaking of powder contouring, right after bronzing I added slightly more definition back to my face with the Smashbox Step By Step Contour Kit.  With the very first shade and the same Tarte brush I patted the contour color from my hair line to hollows of my cheeks and brushed side to side for a more diffused appearance.  I took the taupe shade onto the sides of my nose as well for a slimmer look.  I am not a big fan on powder highlighting so I did skip this step, but be my guest and highlight away ;)

       Picking the Elf Brush up once more I swirled it around in Nyx's Cream Blush.  I chose the lightest pink cream blush I had with minimal shimmer because it adds a nice flush and radiance to the skin without being too overpowering.  I simply stippled the product onto the area below my cheekbones dragging in towards the center of my face and then blended side to side for a less harsh appearance.  I would highly suggest using a cream blush for this rather powder because it looks more natural and much more radiant than powder blushes! 

       Alright, the illumination part is totally up to you.  I know many people HATE the Urban Decay Naked Illuminated because it has large glitter chunks, but it defiantly does work for the concept of this look and if done correctly, going back to the concept described in the beginning of this post, it won't look like a glitter bomb exploding on your face.  With my finger, yes finger, I rubbed it into the product and then dragged it right across my cheek bones in a side to side motion for a sheered out look.  I repeated the same method for the bridge of my nose, cupids bow, and chin.  I built up the pigment slightly by doing this step twice through since I fancy the glitter.

         After the glowy effect is competed I moved straight to baking!  No, not actually cooking, baking. My skin, no not my skin.  Okay forget it.  I basically applied a heavy amount of setting powder to select areas on my face for a flawless overall look.  Mixing the Makeup Forever HD Setting Powder with Makeup Forever's Matte Setting powder is the ultimate mix because it helps keep the makeup in place all day plus the silica in the MUFE HD Setting Powder perfects and evens out fine lines.  Simply open up the Matte Setting Powder pour some in the cap, then with the Hd setting powder right from the container pour it into the cap with the Matte powder.  With the same Beauty Blender used in the beginning of this look dip the fat side into the powder and pat it right underneath your eye area, under your cheek and jaw contour, on your chin, and on your forehead.  You'll know its baking when it appears your skin has white blotches everywhere.  

     By the time you have finished the eyes the process should be complete.  Just take a fluffy power brush and dust away product, then finish off with Urban Decay's All Nighter Setting Spray to refresh, and ensure elasticity of the look.





  Finally my eyebrow has grown back in after I by accident shaved half of it off :').  So, eyebrows were a success today!  With my #12 Anastasia Beverly Hills Brush I quickly lined through my brows with firm strokes then filled them in with light brush stokes to mimic actual eyebrow hair.  Rather choosing a darker brow color I went for one that fits my overall skin tone because if I was in a Winter wonderland my features would be lighter, duh.

       Moving along to primer, I went for a thick white base.  Since the BH Cosmetics products have hit and miss shades I wanted to ensure I'd have optimal pigment achieved.  So, right from the stick I drew two dashes on both eyes then with my ring finer blended up to my brow, and around the lid area. 

*Makeup Geek Eyeshadow, MermaidPoolside
*BH Cosmetics 88 Cool Matte Pallet: Column 8, Row 2 and Row 5,  Column 3, Row 8 + Column 4, Row 8
*BH Cosmetics 88 Cool Shimmer Pallet: Column 8, Row 4, Column 9, Row 6

     Before getting into ANYTHING, I just circled the shades I had used to avoid confusion because I know when I see Column and Row fifty times I zone out.  On the left is the Shimmer pallet and on the right is the Matte pallet. 



    Once the primer was every blended out, I began with picking up my Mac 239 Eyeshadow Brush and the shade Frostbite.  With patting motions I packed on the shimmery blue to the inner corners of my eyes moving slightly into my mid lid area. Build up pigment until you reach your desired shimmery effect!

      With the same Mac brush I then dipped it into Makeup Geek's Poolside.  I keep calling this shade Swimming which I mean is not completely off from Poolside, right...?  Anyhoo, I packed the color onto the outer half of my lid then switching to a fluffier shadow brush I blended it into Frostbite with side to side motions.  The Smashbox Full Exposure Brush comes in handy!  Since I had that brush out I decided to flip it over and with the denser side I brushed Makeup Geek's Mermaid across my lower lash line and slightly smoked it out.  I repeated this step twice for a more metallic appearance. 

       The lid is not entirely done however enough should be completed by this point to move onto the crease!  I chose a pale blue from the BH Cosmetics 88 Cool Matte Pallet, specifically the shade in Column 8 row 2.  With my Anastasia Beverly Hills Self-Made Pallet brush I blended the color into my crease.  Be sure to pick up a hefty amount this way when the other crease colors are added a gradience appears. Simply blend in side to side motions and drag it down to the lower lash line to further "Winterfy" Mermaid.  Within the same pallet mix the shades from Column 3, Row 8 and Column 4, Row 8 together.  Pat the color onto the outer lid first with a Mac 217 brush then with small circular motions follow the natural crease of your eye.  This will form more depth to the overall look since a hint of purple is added.  

       Switching back to my Mac 239 brush I went right into the shimmery blue from the BH Cosmetics 88 Cool Shimmer Pallet.  This shade happens to be located on Column 8, Row 4.  Using light patting motions I packed on the color mid lid.  Since it has a similar color appearance to the other shades used it will not look odd and will naturally blend in!  From Column 9, Row 6 I slightly tapped it right on-top of the previous shade for more shimmer. For more depth to the lower lash line I took Column 8, Row 5 and smudged it only a quarter way in towards the tear duct.

    Lastly, to finish things up I took a pea sized amount of Too Faced Glitter Glue and patted it onto both inner lid areas.  Then, go into Makeup Forevers Glitter in N3 and dab it right on top with your ring finger!


      With Kat Von D's Tatto Liner in Trooper I had formed a medium thickness cat eye liner effect.  For me I like to start with the brush on the mid lid and the drag it towards the outer lid.  Once I reach there I just draw a thin line and as I move inwards thicken the previous line made from the mid lid.  Finish off by filling in the inner lid.  As for the ABH Creme Color, I lined my waterline with a Mac 210 brush.  

*Lancome Hypnose Doll Lashes, Black


As a side note, you guys should check out Bella Shoot! It is an awesome app that combines Instagram with Facebook in a unique way.  You can easily share out posts and the whole set up makes the community encouraging to join.