Sunday, December 6, 2015

Gunmetal Smokey Eye Makeup Tutorial



       December has been quite the unusual month for me.  First wearing lots of rose golds, and now smokey silvers, you might be asking yourself "whats up Lillee?" From the bottom of my heart, no idea however the only explanation I can think of is I like change.  As many of you know I only have ONE smokey grey eye look, one in a total of six months.  While it is rather sad, since grey's look dashing against my eyes, and skin coloring, it is just one of those colors I am not drawn to.  Despite this I have come up with a wearable smokey eye look for both the holidays coming up AND special occasions.  Adding lashes to this look is completely optional, I opted out because I focused more on smoking the rest of my look out! 

   I would of uploaded this much sooner however I was in a super Christmasy mood, so I established the task of putting up a tree and decorating it myself.  I will show pictures towards the end!

   Oooh!  In my video I had forgotten showing the lip part as well as me applying pen liner.  Those details will be discussed below :)!  Many lip colors can be paired with this as well so feel free to pick and choose different color choices, or application styles.

*Nars Multiple, Copacabana, Portofino
*Urban Decay All Nighter Spray

*Nars Turkish Delight Lipgloss*

     The goal today is to formulate a concise explanation, this way for those of you who would like to recreate this look it doesn't confuse you!  Much of this way explained in my video tutorial, but I like to go a bit more in depth so everything is crystal clear :).

   Before starting the look be sure to cleanse and exfoliate your skin, follow up by moisturizing with your desired oil, or cream.  I personally like to use Fresh's Seaberry Oil after cleansing because it has super hydrating properties that ease away ruff spots, it is especially good in the winter weather.  Instead of cleansing I applied the Kate Somerville Extensive Exfoliation Mask.  This stuff is the best because you simply apply it, let it set for two minutes, then apply water and scrub all the impurities away!  As being someone extremely impatient, this is worth the money.  

  After your skin has been washed and hydrated move along to priming the skin.  I smoothed over Hourglass's N28 primer on all zones of my face.  I began by applying one pump to the back of my hand, warming it up with my ring finger then gently easing the product out from the center of my face out towards my hairline.  Be sure to hit every part of your skin so the makeup evenly applies!  

   Next up is the actual foundation application!  I swear, a woman/man spends more time preparing for the foundation than the actual work it takes to apply it.  Anyways- I opted in for Too Faced Born This Way Foundation because my skin was A MESS yesterday.  Broken out, dried spots, just yuck.  Luckily, the TF foundation is super hydrating and has fairly good coverage!  I applied a pump to the back of my hand and with a Marc Jacobs Face II Sculpting Foundation Brush began to disburse the product onto my skin.  Similarly to the primer I started to pat the product onto both cheeks, then blend outwards towards my hairline.  This brush follows all angles of the face making it PERFECT when I am all broken out.  Any remaining product was brushed onto my chin, forehead, and around my nose. 

For concealing and contouring I did a two in one effect.  Basically, I highlighted with the Urban Decay Naked Skin Concealer, then applied Marc Jacobs Re(marc)able Concealer on blemished areas, followed by contouring with Cover Fx's N100 foundation. 

       Contouring and highlighting is a process that is really subjective.  One may want to highlight their temples rather contour, or perhaps contour their forehead rather highlight it.  It all comes down to what looks best on you!  As I said in my video I like to create a lot of width to my face so I concentrate the contour on my chin extending out to both sides of my jaw lines, and under my eyes with extends upside down triangles.  I focus much less on contouring since I have natural definition, however for today I altered my eye shape ever so slightly, contoured my temples, and my cheeks with a Mac 231 brush.  

    Blending is super simple with cream products in fact I think cream contouring is easier than powder contouring, especially for beginners!  Using my Makeup Geek Stippling Foundation Brush, I swished  the product on my skin around in circular motions. Continue using circular motions until you reach areas you'd fancy more coverage.  On those areas, such as the middle of my right cheek, I stippled and blended for a more natural coverage effect.  Occasionally I wiped my brush off on a paper towel so no build-up of product occurs.
  
    Right after cream contouring you should bronze.  It adds color back to the skin and a sun kissed glow!  The other day I had used Benefit's Hoola Bronzer with a Nars #21 contour brush.  Due to this being matte you could outright contour, however on my skin it leans to bronzy of a color to do so.  Bronze the sides of your face in a reverse 3 (temples to the hollows of your cheeks, to your jaw line).

    Next up is setting the contour, and redefining features that you'd like to make more prominent.  Since the Smashbox Step by Step Contour Kit is on my December Favorites list, I decided to go ahead and use it.  Between you and me, the bronzing shade is not my favorite but such as life.  With a Sephora #74 Blush Contour Brush I swirled the brush into the taupe contour shade.  Once you have a decent amount of product tap it against the container so there is not too much powder applied.  Then suck in your cheeks and where ever you cream contoured, powder contour!  I am not a fan of powder highlighting but I did use some towards the bottom of my face specifically between my jaw and cheek contours, and chin.  

     If you happen to own the Nars Multiple Sticks you know how simple these are to use and what life savers they can be, especially if you're in a rush!  For a toned down coral blush I used Portofino and from the stick dashed it upwards from the apples of my cheeks, up to my hairline adjacent with my eyes.  This is less complicated than it seems because placement does not matter as long as you dash it around the cheek area.  Before doing any blending, although some might want to do so, I then dashed Copacabana parallel to Portofino as a cheekbone highlight.  I also applied it from my forehead down to my chin with a single streak.   

 As far as blending goes, be sure to use LARGE circular motions and a fluffy blush.  I went for my beloved Elf Ultimate Blending Brush and began with blending the chin out.  I tend to start from there bottom up, so this is really preference and what you prefer.  With one large chain of circular motions stemming up toward my forehead I then worked onto my cheeks and rather using circular motions I stippled the product in.  This gives a more intense effect.  

        The last finishing steps I had done is set my skin with Makeup Forever's HD Setting Powder, and spraying it with Urban Decay's All Nighter Spray.  This is literally THE LAST step I do, and it is done in the exact order of powder, than wet spray.  I applied the setting powder around my T-zone and heavily under my eyes because the silica makes for flawless skin!  Then, I sprayed on the UD All Nighter from a distance of 4 inches away.  This should defiantly set your makeup and prolong the wear time.



        Wether you choose to do your eyes first, or last the brows defiantly are a must! 
 They sculpt the face and depending on the arch you do can alter a look dramatically.  Using the ABH Dipbrow Pomade in Blonde and a ABH #12 brush I began by spooling through each brow.  This reveals the natural shape and makes applying the product 10x easier.  After doing so I lined my brows, and gradually filled them in with light brush strokes to mimic real eyebrow hair. 

 This is one of the first times I have used the Lorac Behind The Scenes Eye Primer and I am not disappointed!  It has a lighter texture than the Urban Decay Priming potion and works amazing for my glitter shadows.  I smoothed it over each lid and under my lower lash line to ensure optimal pigment and blending ease.

*Makeup Geek Eyeshadow Pans, Barcelona Beach, Vanilla Bean
*Mac Eyeshadow, Handwritten
*Urban Decay Naked Pallet, Creep, Gunmetal
*Urban Decay Naked 2 Pallet, Verve+Pistol 
*Sugarpill Loose Eyeshadow Pigment, Grand Tiara

  Once you have applied primer to both lids you will want to set it with a skin tone shadow.  I used Makeup Geek's Shadow in Vanilla Bean and spread it all over my entire eye with Smashbox's Full Exposure brush.  Any fluffy shader brush will do! 

Before working any further on the lid mover along to the crease.  With Barcelona Beach and Anastasia Beverly Hills Self-Made Crease sided brush, I began to blend the shade in my crease as a transitional shade.  Stick to large circular motions and side to side motions to keep the shadow blended around the natural eye shape.  Avoid blending up to the brows!!!  Using the same brush dip it into Mac's Handwritten.  This shade is extremely forgiving so you can start with as much pigment as you'd like, or build up like I did.  Concentrate the color right in the outer V following your eye socket; I used a variation of motions including side to side, circular and patting, choose whatever feels best and works best for you.

  Switching to a shorter haired brush go into Creep. I actually was going to use a matte black such as Makeup Geeks Corrupt however Creep works best because it has silver reflects!  At any rate, pack on the shadow around the outer lid moving in towards the socket.  You might want to use short blending strokes however it isn't necessary because this set is only used to form more definition!  After Creep is applied move onto a tapered blending brush such as a Mac 224, and smooth the colors out with side to side sweeping motions.

     Now onto the actual lid area!  Begin by patting on Gunmetal to the outer and mid lid area with a flat shader brush.  In my case since the ABH brush is double sided, I used the flatter side.  Repeat the patting step until you receive the desired amount of pigment you'd like!  For the inner lid area I mixed Verve and Pistol together.  With the same exact patting motions I built up pigment then tapped Sugarpill's Grand Tiara right on-top for extra shine and gradience.

    Once the lids were completed I smudged Mac's Kohl Liner in Smolder across the entire lid, and onto my waterline. While this is the ultimate smokey eye effect I wasn't quite feeling it so I decided to take my Stila Waterproof Liner Pen and line right on top of the kohl liner.  This actually formed a smokier effect for me because it appeared as if the solid black line fades into a smokey escape.  



Behold the glorious Christmas tree decorated by yours truly ;)