Wednesday, December 2, 2015

Cranberry Smokey Makeup Tutorial


    Hey loves!  This is probably one of my favorite looks because it pushed me out of my comfort zone and it is the perfect makeup for any berry toned lip color.  As most of you know I am not a major fan of pink toned shadows.  If I even break out my Naked 3 pallet once a month, its a miracle.  Today however I focused on my new Makeup Geek shadows I purchased a few days ago, the performance is superior to Mac shadows, in my opinion that is.    

     To the right is an example of the look with House Of Lashes Iconic.  It defiantly adds more drama to the makeup compared to the softer, blended, no lash look above.

      By the way I have also updated my favorite products of the month which can again, be found to the left column of my blog!  Before doing this look I would like to do some pre-worning that a few blending brushes will be needed to smudge the colors together!  Many of these shades are interchangeable with cheaper options (although MUG is already at a low price) and I will list those below!

 If you guys ever want to message me you can contact me at thaeyeballqueen@gmail.com!

*Hourglass N28 Primer
*Estee Lauder Double Wear Foundation, 1N1 Ivory Nude
*Elf Shimmering Facial Whip, Golden Peach
*Tarte Creaseless Concealer, Light Sand
*Cover Fx Cream Foundation, N100
*Mac Mineralized Skin Finish, Cheeky Bronze
*Smashbox Step By Step Contour Kit, Light/Medium
*Mac Mineralized Blush, Uplifting
*Becca Champagne Pop
*Bareminerals Mineral Veil
*Urban Decay All Nighter Spray

      First things first, be sure to have an even base!  No, I am not talking about acne marks poofing away, I am referring to any dull skin.  For today I exfoliated my skin with Peter Thomas Roth FIRMx Peeling Gel! I gently squeezed a hefty amount out then in circular motions rubbed it around my face. This stuff is only fascinating because anytime you see bunched up rolls, that is supposedly dead skin! I allowed the product to sit 2 minutes for extra exfoliation since this has lots of enzymes which soften the skin.  After I washed it off with warm water and applied Fresh Seaberry Oil to all zones of my face.

    Once your skin has absorbed the oil, or moisturizer of your choice, go ahead and apply primer!  I have chosen Hourglass N28 Primer because it is my absolute favorite to use and makes my makeup glide on smoothly and last all day!  I squeezed out half a pump into the palm of my hand, then smoothed it over my cheeks blending out toward my hairline, and any remaining primer was applied on my forehead, chin, and nose!

   As far as foundation goes, I aimed for a super full coverage, and radiant finishing base!  As you might of guessed, I used Estee Lauder's Double Wear Foundation and mixed it with Elf Shimmering Facial Whip in Golden Peach.  Mixing the two together is COMPLETELY optional, I just prefer the extra glow!  I simply poured a nickel sized amount of foundation onto the back of my hand, then squeezed the Elf tube for a pea sized amount of "Golden Peach".  Blending before hand is not necessary since the blending tool I am using is a Beauty Blender Pro!  

  Using the Beauty Blender Pro, specifically the rounder side, I dipped it into the two colors and gradually mixed them.  Then, I gently stippled the product onto my left cheek near the side of my nose and blended the products out toward my hairline.  I followed the same motion on the other side and made sure to blend right around my jaw as well.  Any excess product was used on my chin, nose, and forehead!  

       If you're anything like me, I absolutely hate layering on makeup!  To prevent this I decided to use a fuller coverage concealer as my highlight with the same coverage for my contour.  The Tarte Creaseless Concealer is rather thick so if you do not have any breakouts I wouldn't suggest it, in fact I'd recommend the Urban Decay Skin Weightless Concealer since it has light to medium coverage!  At any rate I squeezed a good amount of product onto the back of my hand and with a concealer brush gently blended it out to a sheerer finish.  Using the concealer brush, which happens to be not available to purchase anymore (its from a holiday brush collection set by Sephora), I drew two upside down triangles under my eyes, a line straight down from my forehead, to bridge of my nose, to down my cupids bow, to down my lips, to finally my chin.  After the line extended out to my chin I brushed it horizontally to the area between my jaw and cheek contour line.  
Contouring for me is rather simple since I only draw a line from the hollows of my cheeks, and to the sides of my nose.  I prefer adding more width than shrinking my face since it looks more real!  I used the Cover Fx Cream Foundation in N100 for a nice brown toned contour.  Be sure to not choose anything with orange reflects, or anything too taupe.

       Using the same exact Beauty Blender Pro, I blended out both the contour and highlight. I first began with the lower half of my face and blended out the chin with light patting motions.  Once I patted my way through the chin to jaw highlight I began blending in the cheek contour!  To do so I turned my sponge sideways and blended upwards to form a lifted effect.  After doing so, I proceeded in patted the highlight under both eyes and I slightly blended it into the contour to tone it down.  To tie things together I blended my nose contour first with upwards motions, never down, and finished off with patting in the forehead highlight!

        Now, I do know the Mac Mineralized Skin Finish in Cheeky Bronze is not a bronzer but it leaves such an effortless glowy bronze effect that I HAD to use it!  This has coral tones so it also compliments Elf Golden Peach beautifully.  Using an Hourglass Ambient Powder Brush I swirled it into the shade and swept it under my cheek bones, under my jaw, slightly on the temples, and on the tip of my nose!  Since this does has shimmer, stay away from using it as a contour shade.

      To set the contour now that color is added back to the face, I used Smashbox Step By Step Contour Kit.  I was never quite fond about this product, but the contouring shade has been on par with my skin tone since the weather has caused it to lighten.   Using the same Ambient Powder Brush I patted the contour shade right in the hollows of my cheeks with upward sweeping motions.  Be sure to BLEND until the contour is not noticeable.  I am not one of those people who love heavy contour- it looks terrible in regular lighting.  After doing so, using the side of the brush chisel the sides of your nose until you get the desired nose shape.  Again, be sure to REALLY blend this out!  As for the highlighting shade I brushed it down my nose, on my forehead, and between the cheek+jaw contour for a bringing effect.

This is the first time in a while that I've decided on using a powder blush, but I figured why not!  Using the Mac Mineralized Blush in Uplifting and a Mac 168 brush, I blended it up toward my hairline starting from the top of my cheek contour shade.  I have noticed this shade is NOT in stock, so any coral shade will do (NYX Cream Blush Tickled, or Nars Orgasm). 

       To set my glow I swept my beauty blender across Becca's Champagne Pop, then patted it in a "C" formation from my brow to cheek bone.  Then, I brushed it right down the bridge of my nose and slightly put it onto my cupids bow!

    I generally set my makeup after the shadow, just incase there is any errors, however to set I used a Sephora Multi-Tasker Powder Brush and went right into the Bareminerals Mineral Veil.  I brushed the powder under my eyes, on my T zone, on my chin, and between my cheek and jaw contour.  Then I set everything with Urban Decay All Nighter Spray!



To begin this look I simply lined my brows with an ABH #12 brow brush, then filled them in.  They honestly looked horrid today because I conveniently broke out right on the arch of each brow (':.

I wasn't sure on how pigmented the shades would be, since I hardly ever touch these shades, so I drew a tiny dash on each lid then blended it out up to my brow bone!  Excess product was dragged down the my lower lash line. 


*Makeup Geek Eyeshadows- Mango Tango, Bitten, Burlesque, In The Spotlight
*Anastasia Beverly Hills Eyeshadow: Deep Plum, Birkin
*Makeup Forever Shadow, I-526 Pearl Beige

    Okay, this does seem like A LOT of shadow but fear not as you do the look it all pulls together!  The first shade I began with is Mango Tango.  It is one of the newer colors I bought and it is a gorgeous coral!  I patted it onto both lids with a Mac 239 shader brush.  Don't worry too much on the pigment because it will be layered over in the next few steps!

     Once Mango Tango is on I patted Mac Paradisco right on-top with the same 239 brush.  It gives the shade more of a glimmery sheen and tones the coral down ever so slightly!  After this I went right into Makeup Geek's In The Spotlight and patted it towards the inner corners of my eyes.  This forms a gradient effect and open's up the eyes quite a bit!

    After the lids are set move along to the crease.  Using the Urban Decay Vice Brush, and ABH Birkin, I blended the color throughout my crease with large circular motions.  This will be used as the tradition shade, so be sure it is evenly disbursed throughout the crease!  Next, go into Muse from the Venus pallet.  It might seem odd I went for a pallet brush rather an actual hardy blending brush, but the tip of the Vice brush is very dense making it easy to apply product directly.  Since Muse might be intimidating from first glance start of with a little product and build your way up!  I personally prefer to go in with full fledge pigment, but everyone is different.  Be sure to use circular motions and drag the product towards the lower lash line!
  
      Once Muse is evenly blended throughout the crease, move along to a coarser brush. I chose Mac's 217 Blending Brush since for the outer V I want to concentrate the plummy shades for added depth and dimension.  To begin I first swirled the brush into Makeup Geek Bitten, then I swirled it into ABH Deep Plum, this mixture forms a beautiful deep berry color.  After doing so blend the color right into the outer V area with first, light patting motions on the outer lid, then slight side to side blending motions to work the color into Muse.  For this shade DO NOT blend it down to the lower lash line because another shade will be used here!


The crease should be fully blended by this point.  To add that gradience back to my lid, I took Burlesque by Makeup Geek and patted it right next to the outer lid mixture with a Mac 219.  With the same 219 I smudged the shade right under my lower lash line.  Lastly, with a large fluffy eyeshadow brush I took MUFE I-526 and brushed it on-to my brow bones and with a ring finger patted the color in my tear duct.


  I will admit I was expecting the pigment to be black and super pigmented since most of Elf's products are spectacular.  Sadly, there was little to no pigment, BUT this was a plus because it formed a nice smudged out look.  Just line your eyes as you normally would and let the brush from the liner do the rest!


**House Of Lashes, Iconic** OPTIONAL 





By the way if you want a more dramatic and darker smokey eye in the same color scheme check out this look from a few days ago, OR for a toned down pink look click here :)!