Thursday, December 24, 2015

Bronzed Smokey Eye Makeup Tutorial

     Merry Christmas Eve everyone!  This is one of the most elegant looks for the holidays, simple bronze smoked out eyes.  For those of you who might not be the typical pink lipstick with brown shadow gal, I think I have the puuuurfect solution for you!  Not only does this incorporate surprisingly inexpensive products that have impeccable pigment, there are many changes that can be done.  For example, if perhaps you're not digging the black lip you can easily swap it in for a red lip or basically any color you can think of since the eyes are bronze.  This is the second black lipstick look I have done, and while this leans more holiday like, my other look which you can find by clicking this is more subdue and less flashy.  On the side is a photo with orange lipgloss by Anastasia Beverly Hills!  I have shown this just to prove the fact the eyes can be paired with just about any color lipstick, or gloss. This look can honestly be done with ANY shadow pallet featuring golds and bronzes, included Urban Decay's Naked pallet or Stila's Eyes Are The Window pallet's.  Also, it has been pouring tremendously here so stay tuned  tomorrow night for better lit photos :)!

*Nars Multiple Stick, Copacabana, Portofino
*Colourpop Highlighter, Smoke N Whistles

  Please excuse my hair and attire for this post I literally just jumped out of the shower.  With that being said I had a pretty clean canvas from using Origins Clear Improvement Active Charcoal Mask, and my normal Fresh Seaberry Oil to moisturize right after.  Anytime I use an Origins face mask my skin literally is porcelain. These are inexpensive compared to most face masks and do a heck of a better job especially for my dry Winter skin!  Depending on if you're doing a daily routine or not, I would recommend doing a quick hydrating face mask, or refining pore facial mask to have immaculate skin when time comes for black lipstick!

       Although not one of my favorites anymore I used Smashbox's Photo Finish Primer to prime my skin. Normally I'd be using my Hourglass N28 primer but unfortunately that exploded and I'm left with this stuff.  Enough of my complaining, I squeezed a pea sized amount on the palm of my hand then rubbed my hands together to warm the product up.  Starting from the center of my face I moistened the product out towards my hairline, similarly to the process of applying a face moisturizer! Allow this to set for a few minutes; depending on how much oil is present in your primer gauge the amount of time you'd like your pores to absorb the product.

          I'll be honest, my foundation did not even apply the same with this primer.  Yes, I am still going on it is bothersome to think my FAVORITE primer decided to explode.  Moving along from that side of the spectrum, squeeze out one pump of the Too Faced Born This Way Foundation on the back of your hand.  With you favorite blending tool (I went for Marc Jacobs Face II Sculpting Foundation Brush) carefully plunge your brush into the foundation and begin to stipple it on all zones of your face.  I like to begin with my right cheek and simply place the product on working clockwise.  Once you have stippled the product on you should have some reaming on the back of your hand.  This should only be used on areas needing extra coverage!  Focus on blending the product seamlessly in towards your hairline with long downward brush strokes.  Never use upward strokes because this will illuminate peach fuzz and all that hides stuff you never realized was there.  By this point your foundation should be fully applied and buffed out completely!  Most people like to let their foundation sit for a few minutes but I just went straight to cream contouring and cream highlighting.

In addition to the cream contouring and cream highlighting part I also will be explaining the placement and blending technique of the Multiple Sticks by Nars

        To begin the cream contouring process first select one product lighter than your natural skin tone and one product darker than your skin tone.  The rule of thumb is only by 3-4 shades but I go ahead with the color that works best for me!  Keep in mind everyone has a different face so highlighting and contouring varies, but for the most part the zones I cover is standard for everyone. At any rate, with my Urban Decay Naked Skin Concealer in Fair Neutral I draw two upside down triangles underneath both eyes extending out toward my hairline, one line down the bridge of my nose extending up to my forehead, and one line from my left jaw to my chin to my right jaw.  As far as contouring goes with my finger I went into Cover Fx's Cream Foundation in N100 and sucked in my cheeks to find my natural hollowing and drew a line from my hairline going in toward my nose.  I also contoured the sides of my nose connecting the shade at the tip!  Blending creams in are much easier than powders, especially for beginners in my opinion.  So be sure to choose a sponge or brush you're comfortable with because this process takes all but 2 minutes.  Starting from your jaw line up use circular motions on the contour and patting/stippling on the highlight.  Since I used my Elf Ultimate Blending Brush it was easier to control how the product disbursed out!  Be sure to occasionally wipe off your brush as well so product build up does not occur.  As you reach the under eye area use strictly stippling motions, pull down on the under eye area creates a streaky effect!  Also, as a side note the you reach the cheek contour brush UPWARDS, this creates the illusion of lifted cheekbones.  After the contouring is blended in move onto highlighting and blushing!  While I normal do this as one of the last steps I wanted to get the creams out of the way.  As you can see from the photo above I placed Nars Copacabana Multiple Stick on the "C's" of my eyes and dashed Portofino right underneath.  Be sure to apply Copacabana on the bridge of your nose and your cupids bow too!  With the same Elf Ultimate Blending Brush I lightly patted the product into my cheeks avoiding circular motions.  This sheers out tremendously so be sure you pat and check to see if you have the desired pigment you'd fancy.

       Once the blush and highlight is taken care of move on to bronzing!  I went for Givenchy's Poudre Bonne Mine Healthy Glow Powder in #4.  This added a lot of warmth back to my face; whenever you use contouring products the taupey shades draw the face back and strip its natural color.  With my Mac 168 Brush I gently swept it from my temples, to the hollows of my cheeks, and back down to my jaw line.  Repeat the same "3" shape until you're satisfied with the pigment.  If you happen to be using a matte bronzer you can use this as a settlement for your cream contour! 

            To just add that extra dimension back and contour the sides of my nose once more I went into the first color from Smashbox's Step By Step Contour Kit! With the same 168 brush I gently swept it right under my cheekbones and with upward sweeps brushed it up the sides of my nose!  This was more of a quicky, nothing special just used to bring the contour back to life.

           For an extra shimmery glow I took my Sephora Teardrop Highlighting Brush and Colourpop's Highlighter in Smoke N Whistles, and lightly dusted my cheekbones as well as the bridge of my nose.  If you want you can also gently pat it on your cupid's bow for the illusion of bigger lips!

     Once I had finished up my eyes I gently patted on Makeup Forever's Hd Setting Powder underneath my eyes, between my jaw and cheek contour, and on my forehead with a Sephora #74 brush.  If you're planning on taking photos, especially flash photos you should AVOID using a powder like this and opt in for Bareminerals Mineral Veil or Makeup Forevers Matte Setting Powder!  As a finishing step simply spritz on Urban Decays Setting Spray and you should be set :)!  

*ABH Dipbrow Pomade, Caramel
           Move right into the brows after you have either a) set your face or b) finished off with powder contouring!  I had furry brows to the point it was ridiculous, so if you must pluck and shave away imperfections since after all this is a saucy holiday makeup look.  If all of that is taken care of, begin the brow process by spoolieing through each with either a separate spoolie, or Anastasia Beverly Hills #12 brush.  Then, go into the brow product and line your brows to the desired shape.  Once you have done that fill them in with light brush strokes to mimic real eyebrow hair and finish off with one last spoolieing!

*Nyx Jumbo Eye Pencil, Cashmere 
          I used one of my favorite priming pencils today by Nyx which happens to be the shade Cashmere.  For most its Milk, but this is such a practical color that can be used all over the face!  Right from the stick I smudged it all over my entire lid and the blended it upwards to my brow bone for full coverage!

*BH Cosmetics 88 Cool Shimmer Pallet: Column 5 Rows 6, 7, 8

          While using this pallet is a pain in the butt to describe since the colors have no names, a picture should suffice.  Once the cream was applied as a priming base go into column 5 row 6 and apply this shade all over the lid area with a flat shader brush.  I opted in for my Mac 239 brush to have select coverage in a concentrated area!  Continue to pat the shade onto your entire eyelid is saturated in the gorgeous rustic gold!  With the same flat shader brush go into the color provided in column 5 row 8 and pat it on the outer third of your eyelid.  Don't drag the shade too far in because it will be set with a shimmery pigment, use this as a guide!
    Lastly, pick up column 5 row 7's shade and place it on the mid lid area along with smudging it under the lower lash line. If you must, use side to side blending motions so a gradience is formed!  In all honesty this is not the most difficult of the bunch but it does require some technique of patting, and blending correctly without disbursing the pigment fully.

*Nyx Pearl Mania Loose Eyeshadow, Mink, Walnut, Nude
      While it does seem like a lot of work to relayer pigments over shadows, trust me the end result is worth it!  Basically, wherever you placed the gradience of shadows is where these pigments will go!  For example I gently tapped out some product from each pigment onto a clean napkin. Then, with the same Mac 239 brush I patted on Mink to the inner part of my lid followed by Nude in the inner corners of my eyes.  I then took the color Walnut and with a Mac 217 brush eased it in my crease with slight patting motions.  Whenever you're adding a pigment for a crease shade follow the natural creasing of your eye socket!  With a denser brush such as Mac 219,  smudge Mink under the lower lash line and slightly blend it into column 5 row 7's color!

      Smudge Lionfish across the upper lash line, avoid adding a flick (cat eye effect).  Then, line your water line for a contrasting bronze.  This lasts long bouts of time so if you happen to have watery eyes I'd suggest checking time and time to make sure the product doesn't slip elsewhere.  If you'd like to prolong the placement simply pat an eyeshadow on top.

        Top off the look with full plump lashes and some light and airy falsies :)!  Wether you're into false lashes or not they even out the darker lipstick as both upper and lower facial features are dramatic!  Just keep in mind makeup is meant to enhance, not hinder.

A few other bronzed looks that are much more simple can be found here, here, and here