Tuesday, December 29, 2015

Barbie's New Years Smokey Eye Makeup Tutorial


      For all of my loves who don't like dark smokey eyes or wearing red lipstick yet still want to stand out on New Years, I gotcha covered!  Not only can this super sweet look be perfect for Valentines Day it also can be worn on the daily if you remove the falsies and soften up the crease a tad more.  In my video tutorial I showed raw footage just to ensure everyone understood the blending motions done, I know pink isn't the easiest shade to work with!  Also I included the Too Faced Chocolate Bon Bons Pallet just because it reminded me of something Barbie would carry around...and also some of the shades spoke to me, literally.  Before we get into the actual look, the lip color I chose was sort of toned down compared to what MOST see of Barbie because after really analyzing the doll itself, her lips are like a sheer pink not quite hot pink and not quite a bold pink.  That part is all in your hands depending on what shade looks best on you and what feels most comfortable to wear.  Be sure to have a variety of blending brushes ready to go!



          Barbie is notorious for her perfect skin, so rather washing and scrubbing my skin clean I decided to just apply a thin layer of Fresh's Seaberry Oil to create a healthy glow without overly redding my skin.  Be sure to of let the oil or moisturizer set into your pores for a few minutes prior to adding a primer!  As a side note since I know many women are against the image of Barbie, she is a doll.  If someone is that into BECOMING a doll, something is clearly wrong there and it IS NOT the toy itself.  I just had to clear that up because to blame a doll for someones insanity is absurd.  Don't tell me "children look up to Barbie", a balance child knows what is reality and what is not, I loved my Barbies yet never wanted to become that, I knew and know who I am, and what I am.  In todays look we're simply taking creative commons and doing a look Barbie approved. 

           Aside from that mini rant that had to come out, move along to priming the skin!  I went for my Hourglass N28 primer, however due to the product being scarce I applied it to all zones of my face by the actual tube that sits in the bottle.  After placing the primer onto my skin I then smoothed it out just like a normal moisturizer.  Blend it up to your hairline to ensure your makeup stays put on ALL sections of your face.  Allow the product to set for a few minutes; depending if the primer is oil based or not is how you should time it.  For example, for my N28 since it has oil properties I let it set for 7 minutes, as for other primers 3-4 minutes.  

               Moving along to foundation, choose a full coverage foundation that you know will last hours on end.   Some of you might go for the Estee Lauder Double Wear Foundation, but I went along with my Becca Ultimate Coverage Creme Foundation in Sand.  This product literally only requires one pump, as it is marketed to do, and creates a flawless SKIN LIKE appearance since it is a creme!  To begin I applied on pump to the back of my hand and with my Marc Jacobs Face II Sculpting brush gently warmed the product up by spreading it out on my hand slightly.  With any creme its best to warm the product up first because it makes it much easier to use!  Starting from my left cheek I began to stipple the product on.  I continued to stipple around my face working counter clockwise until I reached my left cheek again, then I started to use slightly buffing and downward stroking motions to form a flawless base.  Be sure to work in light layers, this goes for any foundation as its best for build up coverage then start with a lot and have streaks everywhere!  Also, be sure to blend up to the hairline for the most natural coverage.  


                  Ooh sorry to scare you but yes it happens to be cream contouring time.  I used to literally go through 2 extra steps before contouring until I realized cream contouring covered everything...especially if you use a concealer to do so! As modeled above from my video tutorial, I took Urban Decay's Naked Skin Concealer and highlighted my user eye area with upside down triangles, my forehead, down the bridge of my nose as well as between my jaw and cheek contour.  Whenever you're highlighting always choose a few skin tones lighter, if you can't find lighter go for white! After you have placed on the highlighting shade go into a contouring cream.  I chose my usual Cover Fx Cream Foundation in N100, which goes to prove you don't need to contour with a product just because it's labeled "contour product".  I contoured the sides of my nose, my cheeks, and my jaw lines with a slight contour under my bottom lip and in my crease.  I happened to use a Mac 231 brush to do so!  Right after you have placed the product on (use mine as a guide but be aware contouring and highlighting varies from person to person!), move onto blending with either a sponge or actually brush.  As most of you know I'm a fan of using my Elf Ultimate Blending Brush because sponge products clog my pores WAYYY to much leading to break outs.  At any rate, starting from my jaw line up, I blended in my left cheek with a series of circular and stippling motions.  When you reach your cheek contour always blend in upswept motions to form a "lighted" and higher cheekbone appearance.  Complete the same blending motions on the other side.  As far as the chin, nose and chin goes use circular motions as well! 

        Once you have cream contoured its best to move along to bronzing, rather using an actual powder contour product.  I swirled my Tarte Swirl Powder Brush into Givenchy's Poudre Bonne Mine Healthy Glow Powder, and then brushed it from my temples down to my cheekbones and finally back down to my jaw line.  This just adds warmth back to the skin and helps to smooth out a dull complexion.  IF you happen to be using a matte slightly taupe bronzer you can set your cream contour with that rather moving onto an extra defining step!

        With the same exact Tarte Swirl Powder Brush, I moved onto setting the contour.  With my favorite contouring pallet, Marc Jacobs #instmarc Filtering Powders in Mirage Filter, I took the deep bronze shade and swept it on the hollows of my cheeks as well as on the sides of my nose and under my chin.  You can always powder highlight with the yellow powder provided however I am not the biggest fan of adding tons of layers to my under eye area, eventually it cakes up and cracks.  

              For a perfect Barbie flush that wouldn't overpower the rest of my look, I went into Mac's Relaxation Cream Color.  I simply took my Elf Ultimate Blending Brush and slightly stippled it in the cream then from the apples of my cheeks up to my hairline I patted the color on.  This method works best if you smile because you can clearly see the "apples" of your cheeks and a clear path is drawn upwards to your hairline!

               I have never been so excited to lluminize in my life until now.  There is something so freaking amazing about Barbies glow that it somehow fit perfect with the concept of New Years, because who doesn't want a flawless, NOT GLITTERY, glow that shines from afar, I do!  Anyhoo, I brushed on Benefits High Beam from the actual applicator to the "C's" of my eyes, down the bridge of my nose, on my forehead, and well as from my cupids bow down to my chin.  With my Sephora Teardrop Highlighting Brush I gently blended the product in with a series of upward sweeping motions and stippling motions.  This brush is lengthy making it perfect to really blend and disburse shimmery products!  After blending in the liquid set it with Becca's Champagne Pop.  Any areas that the liquid was brushed on should have a taste of Champagne ;).  I suggest using High Beam and the Becca highlight together for the reason of Champagne Pop having peachy tones thus complimenting Mac's Relaxation blush well.

            Once my eyes were completed I then took Besame's Brightening Vanilla Powder and applied it under my eyes, on my forehead, slightly on my chin and on the sides of my nose with my  Sephora Teardrop Highlighting Brush. This happens to be AMAZING with cancelling out redness so I highly suggest using a hardy amount on areas containing blemishes.  To finish things up I sprayed on Urban Decay's All Nighter Setting Spray and the look should be complete :)!  Whenever you apply a setting spray make sure every powder or touch up you want to do is completed because the spray refreshens the makeup and takes away an over powdered effect!



                   Before we get into the brows, I did NOT use any primer for this look, instead during my foundation application I brushed the cream over my lids.  The foundation I had used is super thick so I decided to forgo using any primer on top, besides the shadows held pretty well!
  
        With my Anastasia Beverly Hills #12 brush and the dip brow pomade in Caramel, I first spoolied through each brow.  This just gets all the brow hairs in place and makes lining then defining much easier!  Once you have spoolied through both brows go ahead and line them to your desired shape.  I went for much softer arches than my usual just to accentuate the wide awakened eye shape I created.  After lining them I simply filled them in with light brush strokes and gave them one last spoolieing to disburse the product evenly. 

*Too Faced Chocolate Bon Bons Pallet, Sprinkles, Totally Fetch 
*Sugarpill Loose Eyeshadows/Pigments:  Penelope, Birthday Girl 
          As I said before, no priming base was used!  If you want to use one be my guest, it all comes down to if you happened to do the foundation over the eyelid method.  Moving away from all of that, the first shade I went into is Totally Fetch.  Please don't be afraid to use color, the hot pink sheers out tremendously and makes for a great transitional shade!  With my Sephora #27 Brush, I promptly blended the color in my crease with a variety of circular and side to side motions.  BE sure to every disburse it out and avoid blending up to the brow!

          Once you have Totally Fetch in the crease move along to adding Muse, any red brick shade will do!  With the Mac 217 Blending Brush, I gently patted Muse in the inner V on my eye just to build up some pigment.  Then, following the natural crease provided by my eye socket outline, I gently blended to color in with side to side motions and tiny circular motions as well.  Keep the color concentrated in the inner V, and build up pigment as needed always work in layers!  After you have it blended in take a tinnier brush such as a Mac 219, and smudge Muse under the lower lash line.  With the same 219, pick up Sugarpill's Eyeshadow in Penelope and gently pat it right in the tear duct.  If you must use slight side to side motions to blend Penelope into Muse!

         The crease and lower lash line should be complete by this point.  With a fluffy shadow brush (I used Urban Decays Electric Brush because the bristles are short), apply the shade Sprinkles to the inner lid area and slightly blend it into the mid lid with side to side motions.  This color is not necessary as even the color Cotton Candy can be applied to the lid, however it adds depth to Birthday Girl when it is applied over the glitter glue!

          Speaking of glitter glue, squeeze a pea-sized amount of the Too Faced Glitter Glue onto the back of your hand and gently warm the product up by taking a dense shadow brush (Mac 239) and brushing the product out.  As you brush the product out the glue will of transferred to the brush bristles, and at that point pat the glue onto the inner third of the lid and slightly on the mid lid area. Once you have patted the glue on immediately go into Sugarpills Birthday Girl and with a Sephora #14 Pro Shadow Brush pat it on.  You should always start with light layers when it comes to shimmery products and gradually build it up for the most shimmer possible!

       To finish things off I first lined my waterline with ABH's Creme Liner in Jet then with my Kat Von D Tattoo Eyeliner drew an extremely thick and long cat wing extended up to just about my eyebrow.  Be sure when you line your waterline you also smudge it out onto your lower lash line for a sexy smoke effect ;)!  If you want to have a more doll like eye look I'd suggest lining your waterline with white liner, or applying white eyeshadow to that area.  Since this is a New Years look, not Barbie makeup in specific, the black lining just accentuates and adds depth to the whole look!

                Finish off the look with your favorite mascara and some super glam lashes!  Just a tip for this look especially if you're doing it on New Years, apply a hardly amount of lash glue to the end and beginning tip of your lashes! These are the two most areas the randomly flick up during the day, keep it secure.