Saturday, October 10, 2015

Smokey Black Makeup Tutorial

     


           Lately I have noticed more fellow black lipstick lovers walking around New York.  Only issue is I have noticed their lipstick is smeared, and feathered.  To be frank the color choices did not go well with the lip color, but fear not Thaeyeballqueen is here to save the day...sorta.   I put together a video in conjunction to this blog post for an eye and face look that fits smoothly with black lips!  I will post the video below when it is uploaded tonight :)!

       Black is almost like red- you can't do a simple eye.  The simple eye draws too much attention to the lips which causes a displeasing effect.  On the other hand, a well blended smokey eye or even a winged eyeliner look amps it up and is on the same WOW factor level with the black lips thus, it fits well together.  

        Above is the full look featuring Lime Crimes Velvetine in Black Velvet.  The formula of this is a true innovation and compared to ABH, ColourPop, and even Kat Von D's Liquid Lip line it stands as the best.  This has a smooth formula that dries instantly and lasted me over 6 hours without sinking into fine lines!


These are the products I used.   In my video I skipped the portion of primer, foundation and so forth so I will be listing those products and giving a tiny description behind each one below :)!


*Too Faced Born This Way Foundation in Porcelain-  I had stippled this on with a dampened Beauty Blender Pro.  I have had a roller coaster ride with hormonal acne so, I applied two coats over any blemishes.  This has a very moisturizing formula which helps when it comes to dry patches!

*Marc Jacobs Re(MARC)able Concealer in 1 Awake- I applied two layers of this on any major breakouts, and one layer under my eyes in an upside down triangle shape.  Similarly to the Born This Way foundation, this concealer has moisturizing properties and superb coverage!  I blended this in with stippling motions using my Beauty Blender Pro.

*Bobbi Brown Skin Weightless Powder Foundation in 1 Warm Ivory- To set my concealer I patted this under my eyes, and on the blemishes with the same BB for maximum coverage. 

*ABH Cream Contour Kit: Cinnamon, Banana-  Just as shown in the video, I applied the shade Cinnamon with a #77 Sephora brush under my cheekbones, jaw line, sides of my nose, and temples.  I also took Banana and swiped it under my eyes, between the jaw and cheekbone contour, on my forehead, and on my chin.   To blend I used the same BB Pro.  
       By the way, not quite sure why people hate this pallet!  The colors do lean slightly orange but I think it gives off a more natural look compared to ashy or taupe contour shades.

*Bobbi Brown Bronzer in Golden Light-  I swirled my Tarte contour and bronzer brush in this powder and applied it in a reversed 3 on the sides of my face following my natural bone structure.  For more definition I lightly dusted it underneath my chin with a Nars #21 Contour Brush.

*Marc Jacobs #instamarc Filtering Powder in Mirage Filter- Using the same brush, Sephora #74, I highlighted the EXACT places I cream contoured with the yellow powder.  I also contoured with the medium brown shade. 

*Too Faced Sweethearts Perfect Flush in Candy Glow-  Excuse me saying "love flush" in the video- I used this on my cheekbones with a Mac 168.  This creates a wonderful glow with the right amount of color!  I avoided applying this on the apples of my cheeks because it defeats the purpose of our heavy contouring!

*Nars Copacabana Liquid Illuminator- I squirted a pea sized amount onto the back side of my hand and lightly stippled in on my cheek bones with my ring, and index finger.  Any excess product was put on the bridge of my nose, my forehead, and my chin.

*Hourglass Ambient Lighting Pallet: Incandescent Light- I applied this right over Nars Copacabana for a multi dimensional glow.  I specifically placed it on the tip of my nose, and on my cheek bones with my fingers.

*MUFE Super Matte Loose Powder in Translucent 12- I normally use the HD setting powder, however my face leaned oily so I went for this.  I must say it keeps my skin matte for HOURS making it a good investment.  I applied a generous amount under my eyes and on my T zone with a Sephora #74 brush.

*UD Setting Spray: All Nighter


For the eyes I had rather thorough explanations in my video, but if any part was misunderstood it will all be clarified below!


Semi Sweet, Triple Fudge, Haute Chocolate, Creme Brûlée, Hazelnut, Milk Chocolate 
1. To begin I patted Semi Sweet onto my entire eyelid with a SmashBox Full Exposure brush. 

2. I then blended Triple Fudge mixed with Strapless in the inner V with a Mac 217.  I focused on using circular motions as I wanted this color to be heavily concentrated.  

3. Haute Chocolate was smudged underneath my lower lash line with a Mac 219 brush.  It followed a radiant effect with Corrupt leading on the outer third of my lash line.

4. I first applied Hazelnut in the inner corner of my eye using patting motions with a Mac 239.  Then, I had the fabulous idea of using Creme Brûlée and applying it right on top for more shimmer!

5. Lastly, I blended Milk Chocolate right on-top of Corrupt, Triple Fudge, Strapless, and Nudie with a standard Sephora blending brush.  I used a windshield wiper motion to fully smoke out the colors.

Strapless, Nudie

After completing step one I moved onto the shade Nudie.  This was used as my transition shade to form a fully blended smokey eye!  I used a Mac 224 for a fully defused look.  As explained in step 2 I mixed Strapless with Triple Fudge and blended it into my crease with a Mac 217.

Last minute I decided to deepen up my crease with Makeup Geeks Corrupt!  I applied the black right into triple fudge(+Strapless) with a Sephora blending brush.  I made sure to fully defuse the color and drag it under my lash line with a 219 brush (as said in step 3).



*HOL Lash Glue, and Iconic Lashes

I had a bad eyebrow day sadly.  I used a #12 ABH brush and managed to form some eyebrow shape, but it was rather fuzzy.

Tools
Mac- 239, 217, 224, 219, 168
Sephora- #74, #77